50mm ULD or No?

<p>I use a Mamiya RZ67 for wilderness landscape photography. I have been using the 110mm and 37mm lenses.</p>

<p>I am shopping for a 50mm however I am confused about the differences in the image quality of the ULD and the regular 50mm lens. Have you noticed a big difference in image quality? Do you think the ULD is worth the extra money?</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Some related but possibly incorrect logic to ponder :-)<br>

I used the floating element 50mm (IIRC) on the RB67. The additional step to focus was a pain. The difference cannot be seen, and must be set on the focusing scale.<br>

That said, if you're shooting landscapes, it may be set permanently to infinity. And if so, you may not see ANY benefit to the floating element, which IIRC, was used to correct focus at the shorter distances.<br>

THAT said, both RZ67 lenses may well be sharper, and the ULD may have inherent IQ enhancements over the standard anyways. I'm not sure.<br>

I do shoot the 65mm regular and have no qualms with it, but I don't look for the sorts of edge sharpness that you likely do.<br>

Sorry...not much concrete fact or experience, but some ideas you can google on for more info.<br /><br />Greg</p>

<p>Thank You.</p>

<p>Hello<br>

1st hand experience here.<br>

I bought the normal 50mm and was disappointed with the corner sharpness (comapred scans). I've bought the ULD version and can't be happier. It's worth the extra cash in my opinion. I have only shot landscapes with it and I don't think that setting the ULD element is really a nuisance, it's very straightforward to use. The lens is exceptional the angle really impressive for 6x7. I highly recommend it. I am not sure whether it will help in making you decision as I imagine you have been hoping to hear "they're almost identical, go for the cheaper lens" but in terms of corner sharpnes and contrast the difference is as dramatic as top of the line zoom v. a prime lens.</p>

 

<p>Hi JD,<br />I have used a ULD for about 8 years now and it is critically sharp center to corner. When I shoot at or near hyperfocal I simply set the floating element on infinity and put a piece of gaffers tape on it to keep it there. If you turn it to the other end your corners will be totally soft. It is useful for adjusting field curvature when you are shooting at larger f's. I have made enlargements from chromes made with the uld up to 30x36 and they blow away anything I can do with my 16.6 megapixel digital. By the way there are at least 2 listed on the auction site right now.</p>

<p>I've used both the non C, C and ULD. From my experience optically printing, the C is OK, not great. the FLE C is razor sharp from edge to edge at 16x20. The ULD may be slightly sharper, I don't see a difference, but (and it's a big but) as Paul Ron has pointed out in the past, the shutters are irrepairable if/when they fail due to being full of plastic bits.</p>