50 f/1.8 lens' aperture ring is "acting up"

<p>Hi everyone,</p>

<p>This has been happening for quite a while. When I'm shooting with the lens (of course w/ the aperture ring locked at f22), sometimes it just randomly start displaying the "EE" message as if the aperture ring is not locked. It often requires some light twisting to get it back to normal again (all while it is "locked" at f/22).</p>

<p>What you think the problem is? (simple wear and tear?) What's the best way to deal with it?</p>

<p>Maybe now it's the good time to get a 50 f/1.4 G...</p>

<p>Send it back to Nikon for repair if it's still under warranty. Ideally, test it on a different body first, if you can.</p>

<p>The contacts between the lens and your camera body may be getting a little dirty or corroded.</p>

<blockquote>"The contacts between the lens ..."</blockquote><P>

 

This would not likely be a CPU (or contacts) issue. The FEE error message results from improper positioning of the aperture ring, and has nothing to do with the CPU contacts (it's essentially a mechanical interface).

<P>

There is a little tab on the back of the aperture ring (the EE servo coupling post) that depresses a switch next to the lens mount on bodies such as the D40/50/60/70/80/90/100. Alternatively on bodies such as the D1/D2/D3 series or D200/300/700, the position of the AI coupling ring determines aperture ring position. If the aperture ring is not properly positioned, then FEE will be displayed.

<P>

It's entirely possible that the tolerances on this particular 50/1.8 are a bit sloppy, and the locking switch is not locking the ring securely when set to f/22. Certainly "wear and tear" is possible, but if the lens has always been locked at f/22, there shouldn't be any wear. How secure is the aperture ring when locked? If there is a lot of play, that's likely the source of your problem, and a repair of some sort is probably in order.

<P>

If this happens only on one particular body (you don't say which model you are using) and not on others, there may be a minor problem with the mechanical interface (AI ring or EE post detection switch).

<p>Hansen, I can get it to work again by twisting the aperture ring, does that mean it still has to do with the contacts?<br>

Epp, I think the cost of sending the lens to Nikon is not much less than the value of the lens...</p>

<p>There's obviously some play with the aperture ring. But it wasn't all that "tight, smooth, and precise" in the first place. I'm not sure how feasible it would be to send in for repairs.</p>

<p>I used it on a D300. I also have a D40, but the 50 doesn't get used mucn on the D40 due to the lack of AF.</p>

<p>It's not necessarily a problem with the lens. My D2H exhibited similar behavior with all my AF Nikkors (all with aperture rings) toward the end of my first year. Twisted the rings slightly toward the full stop (smallest aperture) restored contact, but as soon as I released pressure the error message appeared again. It was *possible* to use the camera this way, cranking the aperture ring manually with the left hand, but not convenient.</p>

<p>The D2H worked fine with G type Nikkors (all AF-S, in my case) and manual focus lenses. Total no-go with 50/1.8D AF, 28-85/3.5-4.5 AF and 35-70/2.8D AF Nikkors. Turned out to be a problem with the body, repaired quickly under warranty.</p>

<p>If possible, check the lens on other Nikon bodies and other AF Nikkors with aperture rings on your Nikon body. That may help determine which to have checked, the body or lens.</p>

<p>What Michael said makes sense. Check the tab on the aperture ring and make sure it is depressing the tab on the camera body sufficiently. Here is a picture of the lens and body tabs mated together.</p><div></div>

<p>Here is a picture of the tab on the D90 body. The tab is spring loaded so normally it is positioned to the left of the slot as viewed in this picture. However if the tab on the lens is loose and not pushing on the tab on the body enough you will get a FEE reading.</p><div></div>

<p>Here is the tab on the lens.</p><div></div>

<p>Once you find out if that is indeed the problem. The fix should be pretty easy. Just glue a small piece of material on the edge of the tab on the lens side and you should be ok.</p>

<p><em>Epp, I think the cost of sending the lens to Nikon is not much less than the value of the lens...</em></p>

<p>Really? Even if it's still under warranty?</p>

<p>It cost me $30 to send my lens to Nikon Canada HQ in Toronto for repair (under warranty) the first time I sent it. I have had to send the same lens in two additional times, for which Nikon covered the shipping.</p>

<p>It seems that the aperture ring is just loose. So it allows a degree of play with the tab on the body around the mount. I guess it's loose to a point that sometimes it doesn't allow the tab to position correctly.</p>

<p>Interestingly enough, all G lenses seem to lack the tab (of course along with an aperture ring). When G lenses get mounted, they essentially leave the tab on the body untouched.</p>

"When G lenses get mounted, they essentially leave the tab on the body untouched."

 

The tab/switch mechanism is only there to verify that lenses with an aperture ring are set to the minimum aperture position (so the body can move the aperture through full travel if necessary). Obviously on a lens with no aperture ring, this isn't an issue. All lens/body "communication" is electronic.

 

Hansen ... good detailed answer for a fix, but unfortunately won't help for a D300, as that body does not use that tab (uses the AI indexing ridge instead).

 

Shuo - you could try securing the aperture ring to the lens barrel with a small piece of masking tape as a temporary fix. Rotate it as far as it will go at f/22, and tape it to keep it from slipping back.

<p>Now it seems that the 50 f/1.4 G is really an attractice choice. So bad it's out of stock everywhere.</p>

<p>This seems to be a common issue with this lens.<br>

I shoot with a D50, and a 50mm/1.8 primarily, and I've had the same troubles from time to time. No help from Nikon, because if it is properly seated, everything works fine.</p>

<p>LOL, yes Michael. I only realized Shuo is shooting with a D300 after I took all those pictures.;-) I would use a piece of gaffing tape and tape the aperture ring to the smallest aperture. I don't remember having to use the aperture ring for any reason with my D300. So taping it to the smallest aperture with a little pre-load will most likely make the lens useable for a long time to come.</p>

<p>this happened to me with a tokina 24-200. the aperture ring was loosy-goosy and tended to come free at inconvenient times -- it was placed too close to where the hand rests when twisting the zoom ring or holding the lens while shooting. i superglued it to the min. aperture value since all i had were digital bodies. end of problem. this has happened once or twice with my 50/1.8, but not to the degree of Shuo's lens. but then i dont use the 50 all that much.</p>

<p>Shuo, from what i've read, the only reason to get the 50/1.4 is better bokeh than the 1.8, but the sigma 50/1.4 HSM's bokeh appears to trump that. i'd either get the sigma or another 50/1.8.</p>

<p>The f/1.4 lenses are perhaps "better performing" than the 50 f/1.8 at apertures brighter than f/2.8; I rarely use the 50 at any aperture settings wider than f/2.8 because it's not all that good wide open. It only adventage over my 24-70 is its size and weight. Another reason to go for the f/1.4 G is for its AF-S feature. That lens on my D40 can fit in the pocket of a sweatshirt, and it should perform well. I think the Sigma is a lot "fatter" than the Nikkor.</p>

<p>>> "come free at inconvenient times"</p>

<p>Exactly. Mine often start acting funny after AF is confirmed, and the shutter is pressed all the way. I often found out the EE thing after the shutter doesn't release right away. I missed quite a few good shots because of this...</p>