40D and action photography settings

<p>I'm trying to understand using the AF and AE on the 40D. I'm disappointed in my results trying to get the focus where I want photographing sporting dogs with selective focus. I really love it when the background blurs to a painterly haze, but I want those eyes and nose to be sharp. I've realized recently that I have a faulty understanding of how the AF works on the 40D.<br>

I'm reading up on this in a book I bought and an article from the Canon site, but I'd appreciate if any of you would be willing to share your typical settings for this kind of photography. Have you changed the Custom Functions? <br>

Advise appreciated.</p><div></div>

<p>Nice shot, Leslie. I think experience will be the best teacher for questions such as when to select one-shot AF or servo. The center focusing point is the most sensitive, although using it for shots like this might result in either stagnant compositions or frustration in trying to use it and recompose. Background blur, of course, can be of two types--being out of focus or being blurred when you pan. For the first type, you can choose either a wide aperture or a longer lens or both. For the second, slower shutter speeds will increase the blur--and longer lenses will, too, if you maintain the same distance from your subject--though both of these factors will also make it more difficult to get a sharp picture of your subject.</p>

<p>I've changed my 40D to use the back button to start AF, and that leaves the shutter button solely for exposure lock, and tripping the shutter, of course. I find that works the best while shooting fast-moving subjects, while allowing me to re-compose after focusing in the general area. f/5.6 or 8 is your friend, so pick your background and get your subject to move in front of it to your advantage.</p>

<p>Yep the AF on button is nice addition to the 40D body.</p>

<p>There is alot about this technique on the web, favored by most sports shooter.</p>

<p>Thank you, Eric. <br>

I think I'm particularly frustrated today as I tried a lot of different things yesterday and got pretty much poor results. I have to remember though that you have to see what doesn't work as well as what does. ;-)<br>

I am trying to work a little on panning, but I'm mainly working on tracking shots with a long lens (70-200 mm Canon L) with a wide aperture. Hmm. Thought. Maybe I'm just trying to work with too wide an aperture for what I'm doing? I watched a pro dog photographer recently who was using 2 cameras. I assumed the other was for wider shots and probably was, but maybe having another body so you can quickly switch if the dog stops and goes on point for those really narrow focus close-ups. Although the above shot was shot at f 6.3. <br>

Beyond that though, I don't think I'm locking in the focus correctly. When I review the focus points, they are will often be on the back of the dog or sometimes not even on the dog. I'm doing a deep dive this week to try to understand the AF / AE relationship on my 40D. A book I have on the 40D has information on changing the Custom Functions to perhaps get better results, but I'm still trying to wrap my head around the info. I'll post more as I think I understand better, but I will appreciate anyone spelling out elementary style what they would have done to focus a similar shot. </p>

<p>Anthony, would you mind breaking it down for me "AF focus for dummies" style? ;-)<br>

So, you are tracking dog in the dog in the frame, the head is let's say to the right and that's where you want the focus to be. Do you frame that part in the center, press the AF button and then reframe the photo and then press the shutter? (assuming you have changed the AF to the back button.)</p>

<p>Thanks, Bruce.<br>

That's a good idea to search about sports photography in general. I've been mostly searching specific to Canon. I'm also thinking of getting a private lesson with a pro dog photographer. People don't have quite so long a nose to get in focus! </p>

<p>When I shoot race cars with my 40D I use the camera in shutter priority mode, center focal point only, AF set on servo. I hold the shutter halfway down and follow the car, clicking the shutter when the car gets to where I want it. For fast moving race cars 1/500 to 1/800 is the exposure time I want to be around, and of course a fast focusing lens is a must, anything with ring USM should do it. I get about an 80% keeper ratio. </p><div></div>

<p>Here's how I would do it (Basically what you had already outlined):<br>

1. Ensure you have enabled C. Fn IV:1 to Option 3: AE lock/Metering + AF Start<br>

2. As you are tracking the dog, hit the AF ON button on either him or the ground where he will be once you are ready to release the shutter. This will vary depending on how fast the subject is moving, and if he is running towards/away from you, or parallel to your plane of focus.<br>

3. Trip the shutter release once he has entered the scene you wish to capture.<br>

4. You can just grab your focus ring and manually track focus if the above doesn't work, especially with your 70-200 USM. </p>

<p>Hello Lesslie:<br /> I love shooting my dogs. It is a win-win deal...they love to run and I love to photograph them.</p>

<p>Dogs are not only quick, but, when they run there is a relatively big vertical component to their movement. It takes a bit of practice to track them with a camera. I have found, with my dogs, that they each have a pattern to their run and it doesn't vary too much over reasonably flat terrain(unless they are chasing live prey). I caught-on to this pattern after just a few "high speed drive" sequences. On top of that, my dogs exhibit a different facial expression during each phase of their stride...and it is the same expression, at the same point in the stride, every time!</p>

<p>I find it easier to sit on the ground with my ankles crossed and support my elbows with my knees. I can pan the camera quite effectively that way. I wobble more when I stand than when I am seated, and, I like getting down close to the dogs eye level. I have used a tripod, but, it doesn't work as well for me in this situation.</p>

<p>I also have the 40D + EF 70-200/2.8L (non IS). The 40D is a very good camera, but, the AF is not as quick as it could be. My EOS 3 (film camera) is much better, as far as AF goes, for this type of shooting. I suppose the 1-series DSLRS might be better as well...but they are well out of my orbit.</p>

<p>The EF 70-200/2.8L is Legend!</p>

<p>Nice Shot by the way....and a beautiful dog! My standards may not be as high as yours - this is just a hobby for me. There are some of my "dog action" samples here:</p>

<p><a rel="nofollow" href="../photodb/folder?folder_id=802111">http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=802111</a></p>

<p>I almost always use Aperture Priority so I can select the desired depth of field. If the light is not changing quickly, I will use manual exposure. I set a wide aperture (f 4.0) for the "Face Plant" sequence in my portfolio (the link above).</p>

<p>I use "High Speed Drive" mode (pg 81 in the 40D manual).</p>

<p>I have tried using "Automatic AF Point Selection" (pg 78) and it works OK, but, it may not lock onto the dog's face...it will lock onto the closest part of the dog.</p>

<p>I use the "AF On" button and I turn AF to "on" when my focus point (red rectangle) is over the dogs eye (as much as possible).</p>

<p>I use "AI Servo" mode (pg 76) and keep the AF button depressed as I track the dog's face (panning). I try to keep the focus point (rectangle) on the dog's eye (I am lucky if I can keep it on his face). I will release the button if an obstruction (grass, bush etc) appears between the lens and the dog, then, press the AF button again when the dog is past the obstruction.</p>

<p>Once I lock AF onto the running dog (in AI Servo mode - pressing the "AF On" button), I press the shutter release (all the way down) and hold it down while I follow the dog's face.</p>

<p>Depending on the intended output (how big will your prints be?) I find I get more keepers if I zoom-out a bit (or back away)...it is easier to follow the dog when he isn't filling the frame...then I will crop-in as desired during editing.</p>

<p>Finally, I do end-up deleting a lot of shots and I may have to shoot many sequences, but, time outdoors with my dogs is all Good Time!</p>

<p>Cheers! Jay</p>

<p>Richard, nice photo and thanks for sharing your technique. I'll give it a shot, so to speak. I heard an interview with Jenni Bidner on the Podcast 7 Photography Secrets, where she recommends practicing panning (and tracking would work too) on cars going by in the street. </p>

<p>Jay, thank you for sharing. I always love looking at dog photos. Wow, your images are really sharp. That's what I'm aiming for. Nice capture of that snow dive. Good observations about predicting their patterns and even facial expressions. I photograph mostly bird dogs and a good bird dog will quarter as they work the field and then there is the magic moment when they go on point. That gives a good opportunity to get a real nice, intense portrait.<br>

By the way, I have the The EF 70-200/4 L IS USM. A pro photographer who does a lot of dogs told me the f4 is the one he grabs most often to shoot in the field, so that's the one I got. I may well someday get the f 2.8<br>

I'll join the paying membership later today and upload more of my photos. </p><div></div>

<p>Anthony, thanks for the break down. I spent the morning reading my Canon 40D book carefully. I've decided I'm going to break it down to baby steps and practice each aspect. <br>

Appreciate all the posts!</p>

<p>This is a great thread, good information here. Thanks to everyone for sharing. Beautiful shots Leslie.</p>

<p>I just started using the AF-on button on my 50D and I love it, way better than my 20D.</p>

<p>I noticed an interesting thing about the 50D (perhaps the 40D is similar)... in AI servo the focus confirmation light is disabled, as is the beep (I turn that off anyway). If you are panning to follow a subject, how do you know when focus is right?</p>

<p>hello John:</p>

<p>Well, I reached for my EOS3 because it was handy, and this is what it does in Servo mode:</p>

<p>- The AF Confirmation Light is activated by the AF-on button.</p>

<p>- This light blinks rapidly when the AF is trying to acquire focus.</p>

<p>- It stops blinking and remains on when focus has been acquired.</p>

<p>Then I thought I had better check my 40D Servo mode...it is different:</p>

<p>- The AF Confirmation Light blinks slowly when acquiring focus</p>

<p>- The AF Confirmation Light stops blinking and switches to "Off" (light not visible) while focus has been achieved.</p>

<p>By the way, I have CF IV set to 2 on my 40D. I like the positive indication on my EOS 3 much better.</p>

<p>So, I guess the 50D could be different again (unlikely but possible). You can check operation by attempting to focus on a featureless area with no edges (smooth sky, smooth snow etc)...the AF should not acquire focus. Then attempt focus on a sharp edge and note the difference in the light when focus locks-on. You should also be able to hear the focus motor when it is active (even with a USM lens).</p>

<p>I should also mention that the 40D manual (pg 160) description of CF IV - 2, is mildly confusing (for me anyway). The manual description leads me to believe the following:</p>

<p>- press "AF-on" button to activate AF</p>

<p>- press "AF-on" button again to disable AF.</p>

<p>However, from using the camera, I know that:</p>

<p>- AF is activated when I press and hold the "AF-on" button</p>

<p>- AF is not active when I release the "AF-on" button.</p>

<p>Cheers! Jay</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks Jay, I'll experiment tonight. I haven't had a lot of field time with the new camera yet (and most of my subjects are fairly static), but I'm going to guess it is the same as your 40D in that regard.</p>

<p>How about a horse of a different color? I always seem to have the subject running in my direction or at an angle away from me. What I have found that works with my 20D and 70-200m is AV, wide open, ISO 100 and AI Servo. With AI Servo I hold the shutter half way down and then release. I did use AI Focus for some time with less than stellar results and a professional I was shooting next to at a horse show suggested I switch to AI Servo. The photo attached was taken while I was on the top of a barn and the horse moving tword me. Like Paul Hornung always said, "practice, practice, practice!"</p><div></div>

<p>Scott, are you using automatic AF point selection?</p>

<p>Oops just noticed an error in a previous post. I said I heard an interview on the Podcast <i>7 Photography Secrets</i>. That should have been <i><b>7 Photography Questions</b></i>.</p>

<p>Yes! The the AF selction is automatic - Predictive AF. It takes a lot of practive but with digital who cares?<br>

Good luck</p>

<p>I'm a little late to this thread, Leslie... but we do share some bird dog shooting things in common, to be sure!<br /><br />Tracking shots, with the dog moving at an angle, are not only the easiest to set up (because, as noted above, the dogs' behavior is somewhat predictable) but they tend to favor the dog, too. Straight coming-at-you shots can be dramatic, but don't always show off the dog's physique and movement. I'm not a Canon shooter, but have wrestled with all of the same issues you're having, in Nikon form.<br /><br />Here's the real problem: these dogs generally have muted colors, and are at best softly defined against the field cover and other backgrounds against which we see them. It's the worst case scenario for focus tracking. Some of my best successes have come with pre-focusing on a bit of foliage where the dog's going to be, and then using my sense of the animal's behavior and speed (and of my camera's performance) to get that capture right as the dog passes through the workable focal plane.<br /><br />It's a good thing it's only pixels, since I throw a fair number away! But when you get a bird dog looking good, nothing looks better. OK, so I'm a little biased!</p>

<p>Matt,<br>

I'm thrilled that you chimed in on this as I greatly admire your work. <br>

I actually had started to come to the same conclusion, so it's great to have you affirm that shooting moving dogs that have very little contrast in a low-contrast setting at a selective focus is a challenge. Especially my Weims, which as a race are smooth-coated, solid-colored, blend-into-the-background-gray.<br>

It helps to know that what you have as an advantage is experience and not a secret "magic bullet" ;-). I have wondered a bit, though if I made the wrong choice with the 40D over the Nikon D200 (model at the time) as I hear it has better tracking. Well, hopefully Canon will meet the challenge and down the road they will match Nikon in that regards, or I'll win the lottery and buy a Mark 1D.<br>

That said, in the meantime, I know I need to focus as it were on knowing this camera inside-out so my settings changes are instant and without thought and think about gaining experience in anticipating where they will be.<br>

Hey, I read in a Canon 40D 3rd party book that often the Image Stabilization isn't the greatest for sports as it slows down the focusing time. Any thoughts?<br>

Mark, if you're willing to divulge another shooting tip, would you say you tend to set the camera more on Aperture Priority or Shutter?<br>

And yea, I happen to agree that getting a bird dog in a great pose with intense look and just right background is sure "purty" as my Aunt Rosie would say!</p>

<div></div>

<p>Leslie, if you stay Canon you can get a used 1Dmk2 for round 1100 USD these days in NICE shape. I got one with under 4000 clicks right here in the classifieds for 1200.</p>

<p>A used 1D is only 350-500 USD and despite the limitations (battery, noise) is quite a a capable camera for tracking.<br>

It's incredible how cheap these have gotten lately.<br>

Something to consider.</p>

<p>Thanks for the tip! Hadn't thought of going the used route or that it would be much more in reach financially. If for no other reason, I'd like a 2nd body.</p>

<p>I know what you mean about those contrasty dogs, Leslie. The Setter people have it easy! I've got Shorthairs, and shooting the solid liver male is like trying to get the stealth bomber going by.</p><div></div>