400/2.8 or 500/4

<p>I currently own a 500/4 AI-P which served me well for stationary birding and waterfowl but now I'm looking to shoot medium to larger birds in motion like herons and eagles fishing over water. Thus, I'll probably need an AF lens for my Nikon and want an older one with an aperture ring so I can use it on my Olympus EP-2 for more stationary shooting (as an MF lens). That leave the choice of an AF-S I or AF-S II. I also own a TC-14 E II and a TC-20 E. Should I go for the 500/4 or 400/2.8 AF-S I/ AF-S II?</p>

<p>i think you have more choices, as the sigma 500 f4.5 hsm , Anyway, as a birder, I think 500/4 is a better solution than 400/2.8....</p>

<p>But could you not get the 400 2.8 and a 1.4tc? That would give you a 560 f4 and a 400 f2.8</p>

<p>Have you tried using your manual focus lens for the in flight shots you want? </p>

<p>Depending on what camera you have you could try the Nikon TC-16A with your 500/4 AI. I have used the TC-16A with my 400/2.8 AIS and D2X quite successfully for soccer. The combo does not work as well for motorsports but I'm thinking birds in flight motion is somewhere in between my two experiences. You only get a range of autofocus, of about 40 feet, that can only be moved by adjusting the manual focus. This sort of autofocus range is fine for panning with the motion of the subject. The TC-16A has the same loss of image quality as the TC-14E, so not too bad. If the TC-16A does not suit your needs you can pretty well sell it for what you pay for it.</p>

<p>Most people choose the 500/4 over the 400/2.8 since it is lighter and less cumbersome, but I suspect in either case you will want to use a professional tripod head to follow the motion of the bird. While considering these two lenses you might want to look at the 600/4 as well.</p>

<p>I suspect either AF-S version would be fine and if there are AF-I versions available as well these would also be very good.</p>

<p>The TC-16A will vignette. I tried it with my 400 f/5.6 and it vignetted a lot. Even changing the setting on my D700 to reduce vignetting didn't help. I ended up getting a TC-301 that's made for telephoto lenses and it worked fantastic. Of course, no autofocus though.</p>

<p>I have never seen any vignetting with the TC-16A, but then I only use it on a crop body D2X.</p>

<p>My advice, is to rent a AFS 400 2.8G ED VR... The thing is a great lens but a beast..It will require a solid tripod and good head to hold it.. The great thing about the 400 2.8 if you shoot in low light the 2.8 will provide some great results and the lens works pretty good with the TC14eII which gives you a f/4 @ 560mm, and I would think the Tc.20eIII would work as well as it does on the AFS 300 2.8. VRII. Oh PS, it's not cheap if you buy it...<br>

http://www.lensrentals.com/rent/nikon/lenses/supertelephoto/nikon-400mm-f2.8-af-s-vr</p>

<p>First of all I think the 400 mm lens is too short for birding. The 400/2.8 is allmost as big and heavy as the 600/4, which are much more suitable. I would prefer the 500/4 for the portability.<br>

I think you have some interesting and rather cheap opportunities as you allready have the good old 500/4 P. I can't see what Nikon camera, you are using. As John pointed out, there is the TC-16A, which was made for autofocusing the MF lenses. When used on longer lenses, you use the manual focus ring to get the appoximate focus and the TC-16A takes care of the fine focusing.<br>

The TC-16A was made in the film camera days, and the only digital cameras it will work on, is the D2 series. However, if you are not afraid of some delicate DIY work, it is possible to modify it to work with any digital Nikon with build in AF motor, ie D70 and upwards, see <a href="http://www.foolography.com/free-stuff/modify-tc-16a/">http://www.foolography.com/free-stuff/modify-tc-16a/</a><br>

I have used the modified TC-16A with my 500/4 P without any vignetting om my D300, and I find the combo very usefull for large birds in fligth. But because of the effective focus length it is essential to have a really good support - a solid tripod and a gimbal head (I use the relatively cheap Bogen/Manfrotto 393).<br>

Of cause, I very much would like a newer lens if I could afford it, and it will probably will give me a more convenient AF function, but I don't think I will get really btter IQ until I switch to the VR and nano-coat version.<br>

And Alan, if you do that (as this version is a G type without aperture ring), I suggest you just keep your reliable and relatively small 500/4 P for manual focus on your Olympos. </p>