3d / stereo / anaglyphic photography on EOS

<p>Has anybody enjoyed any success with 3D / stereo /anaglyphic imaging on their EOS camera, I'm particularly interested in DSLR use, but fear that 35mm may be the only viable option.<br>

There are a few options that the web throws up:<br>

The Loreo convertor (pentax clone) but stated by importer as not compatable with digital<br>

The hard to find vivitar QDOS 70-210 lens (I can't even confirm if an EOS mount version was made, T2?)<br>

Or using camera shift and combining in photoshop (obviously limits the subjects because of the delay between frames) I have a 24mm TS-E and though this may help, not sure though as my regular stitch shifts match perfectly, which would seem to defeat the point.<br>

Any direct experience welcomed.</p>

<p>Cheers</p>

<p>I can't see why the Loreo wouldn't work, especially with a full frame DSLR. With APS-C you might not get very large images if the center is blacked out.</p>

<p>The other obvious answer is a pair of cheap Digital Rebels (XS?) mounted side by side, though the spacing might be a bit wide.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>The hard to find vivitar QDOS 70-210 lens</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I finally found a Qdos lens by buying it with an odd mount--a Contax/Yashica mount. Although the C/Y>EOS adapters are rarer than others, it turned out to be <em>much</em> cheaper than competing for those in Nikon mounts, say. There is a thread I started at (<a href="../classic-cameras-forum/00Nngp">link</a> ).<br>

The interesting thing about the Vivitar is that it produces a quasi-3-D effect, but in so doing, makes a picture that can much more easily be viewed as a sort of "soft focus" picture for those not using the glasses.<br>

Here is an example.</p><div></div>

<p>And, furthermore (Treppenwitz), the old 3-D adapters that are "not consistent with digital" are usable if you do not use the 50mm lens on a 24x36mm sensor, but use an equivalent focal length, such as a 35mm lens on a 15x22mm sensor camera. I don't now have a 28mm but it would probably work better.</p>

<p>Here is an example of that. When you stop down correctly, the center bar is narrower as it should be. This was a f/5.6, should have shot at f/8 or f/11.</p>

<p>These were all shot on a Canon 20D</p><div></div>

<p>I have a growing collection of analglyphs (red/blue) I've been creating after taking two separate shots. I've never liked the "stereo" style, but I find red/blue quite impressive.</p>

<p>I don't see myself mounting two DSLRs to do the kind of shooting I do, and have managed to take some very effective 3Ds without a second camera. I know this means I can't shoot instant-action types of shots, but I'm okay with that, I can't imagine swinging a pair of cameras on a spacing bar as I pan a bird in flight :)</p>

<p>My next step is to make a DIY slider bar that I can attach to my tripod, and mount the camera on top of. Then if I'm shooting a distant landscape I can slide the camera a greater distance, if I'm shooting something closer I'll slide it much less.</p>

<p>If I were really hell-bent on doing instant/action 3D shots, I'd probably go with a pair of cheaper P&S cameras of the same model on a bar, but I like how I'm doing it now. I researched that Loren thing, the quality is apparently very poor.<br>

If you've got 3D red/blue glasses, there's a cool flickr group that's worth a look:<br>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/groups/anaglyph/">http://www.flickr.com/groups/anaglyph/</a></p>

<p> </p>

<p>The "Stereotach" type lens front adapters do not work well with sub 35mm frame sized digital SLRs (nor did they work well with regular APS cameras). There is a Loreo adapter for APS sized chips that is sold on line by some of the 3D specialists. It is mounted on the lens mount and does not use a regular lens with it. They make two images, side by side which you view with a special holder/viewer or an older Stereopticon device. I have not tried the unit for an APS chip but the "regular size" unit works equally well on digital and 35mm film. </p>

<p>Just to clarify, the example I posted above is taken with the Pentax version of the Stereotach-type 3-D adapter, on a EOS 20D using a shorter lens (35mm in this case) that is the equivalent of the 50mm on the "FF" camera.</p>

<p>Many thanks all.<br>

Some varied food for thought.</p>

<p>Of those who take images with the stereo adaptor how do you view them correctly? In print? On screen?<br>

Similarly of those users, have you ever attempted to combine them in photoshop to a single image?</p>

<p>Of the anaglyphic users:<br>

Have you tried to make your own red/cyan filter using cokin or similar? Does the filter need to be close to the aperture?<br>

Might be tricky geting hold of a q-dos in any mount, also restricted range of focal lengths, I note cokin do a P size filter kit with a holder and acetate gels (or I could use Lees) any ideas of eprils pitfalls?<br>

Many thanks once again for your courteous and informative responses.</p>

 

<p>The stereo adapter (Pentax, Stereotach) came with a viewer for the slide. Otherwise, print out and use a Holmes stereo viewer. There is also software somewhere for converting these to anaglyphic 3-D, I just don't have the link anymore.</p>

<p>At the earlier discussion I linked to above, there is an example of a home-made Qdos type lens.</p>