Ladies and Genglemen, Honored Memebers, and Fondlers of all ages.... As some longtime followers of this forum may recall, some 35mm f/1.7 Cosina-Voigtlander Ulton's have a nasty habit of becoming VERY loose, in fact becoming a 2 piece lens. Up until 5 minutes ago, I had one of these (and I didn't get rid of the lens either!). Basically there are three internal screws that hold the front lens optical section to the rear portion, with the aperture mechanism sandwhiched between them. Those screws become loose, or come out completely. I took it partially apart, and upon fear of going in further, backed off before I got to the screws that needed tightening. I asked Steve Gandy about repair - His curt response: Common problem, $175 to make right. I asked DAG about repair, and he said he wasn't familiar with the lens (at that time at least, about 8 months ago), and said it would be $100 minimum. Let me tell you folks.... I dont have the eyes I once had, but still hands to do surface mount repair in my shop (using magnifiers of course). If you have one of these lenses, you can fix it pretty easily, once you know how. Here's how. Read the instructions fully before doing this or you may lose the detent ball for the aperture ring. Tools needed are a piece of rubber tape or rolled up framers tape or other tacky material, and a Craftsman 45727 precision screwdriver. Remove hood and filter if present. Use some rubber to "grab" the nameplate ring and spin it off counter clockwise. Undo the three screws that hold the filter holder ring on. BE CAREFUL AT THIS POINT and DO NOT REMOVE the aperture ring accidentally. Now... over a felt or velvet placemat - carefully ease the aperture ring off the front. The ball will be at the 4 o'clock position as viewed from the front of the lens. Make sure you watch where that ball goes. You can get a spare, but don't lose it and you won't need to worry about it. Be careful also that you don't lose the spring in the hole. Its a greased spring, and is not likely to get lost, unless you are careless with the next part you're about to remove. Next, look for the three larger holes in the ring surrounding the front element. Deep in those holes are screws (same screwdriver). The screws are held with locking compound. You'll need to make sure the screwdriver is seated well, and is not slipping, and... ease each of those three screws out. Lift off that ring, remembering to take some care so that the spring is not lost, and you'll see the heads of the screws that are loose. Tighten those, using a bit of locking compount (NOT LOCKTITE!!). I've got some special stuff we use on circuit boards that is disolvable easily, but nailpolish, or a small dab of Testors enamel will do well. Reassemble in reverse order, making sure when you put the inner ring back on, you get the hole for the ball, with the spring in it, at approximately 4 o'clock. The remaining locking compound on the screws will make them a snug fit when you seat them home. Thats a good thing, just don't let the screwdriver slip. When you ease the aperture ring back on, put the ball in the hole and lower the detent side of the ring over the ball first so its captive, then lower the other side of the ring while giving a gentle twist to find and engage the aperture arm. Once that's on, breath easy you're home. Put on the filter retainer ring (no alignment there), the nameplate and you're finished. Clean the front element, replace the filter and put the hood on... then go shoot. You don't really remove any optics, so there's no re-alignment to be done. The optics section sits flange on flange, so it goes where it goes, and that's that. People... I am now VERY thankful this holiday weekend. Whole operation took 15 minutes. Kinda ticks me off that Gandy, knowing how to fix it, wanted so much for so simple an operation. God bless you all!~ (I take no responsibity if you mess up your already broken lens).