300mm s-tessar

Hello, I recently purchased a 300mm f/5.6 s-tessar lens off of eBay;

I don't have it yet, but I know it was a projection lens for some

sort of hasselblad projector and therefore has no aperture, but it

should be a pretty sharp lens even wide open and I want to try and

mount it cheaply. In a previous post, 2 months ago, Douglas

Finlayson had a similar problem and I wanted to see how he made out--

here's his last post:

 

"My latest notion (since giving up on a shutter) is to have SKG cut

the barrel and use Waterhouse stops. I sent them an email asking

about that possibility. Adam's response was that while they haven't

done that with that particular lens before, it seemed doable. He

said they could insert a sleeve in the barrel which robs the lens of

a stop or two, but keeps light from getting around the stop. Another

approach is to cut a large enough slot so that the stop fills the

entire barrel and there's no light leak."

 

A follow-up to your previous post, or if anyone has any ideas, would

be greatly appreciated.

Also if anyone knows the specifics of this lens: what format it

would cover, resolution etc. I would appreciate it.

Another example of ready, fire, aim.

 

Re shutter, I take it you have a Speed Graphic. Unfortunately the hat trick won't work well with that lens in most situations. At f/5.6 with most emulsions in most lighting, the hat can't be moved rapidly enough.

 

Sorry,

 

Dan

Peter,

 

How about a Packard shutter? There was even an article in a recent View Camera on how to get a couple more shutter speeds with an air regulator. Boy, waterhouse stops and a packard. now all you need is some flash powder to go with it!

 

Thanks!

 

Steve

hello, thank you both for your responses...

If I got a packard shutter could I maybe somehow stick an aperture into the shutter rather than cutting open the lens? Or maybe I can get a large-format camera with a focal plane shutter, mount the lens to some wood, with some glue and duct tape and make my own f-stops with some plastic that I can drill holes into and hold over the lens. Would I be able to hold the smaller circle in front of the lens, or does it have to be behind the front element? I don't know though, a lf camera with a focal plane shutter has got to be pretty expensive. Maybe packard is the way to go. Unless theres a way to front mount it to an existing shutter that has an aperture thing.

Um, Peter, the short answer is that you made a mistake. I hope that you didn't spend much on the lens and that it was, therefore, only a small one.

 

LF camera with focal plane shutter is often spelled "Speed Graphic." But I think getting one to rescue your investment in the S-Tessar would also be a mistake. Don't misread what I wrote. I shoot a 2x3 Speed Graphic. They're useful tools. But having a barrel lens that doesn't have a diaphragm and can't be put in shutter isn't a good reason to get one.

 

Putting a stop in front of the front element or behind the rear element will vignette, it won't change the aperture. As I said, you erred.

 

I appreciate the attraction of cheap lenses. I have a heap of them.

 

I don't know who you are or what you know. Since you're a recent arrival to photo.net, you may be a beginner. You could also be an expert who just came across this site and decided to participate.

 

If you're a beginner, get more education before spending more money. If you're an expert, please forgive my mistake.

 

Cheers,

 

Dan

S-Tessar 300mm f/5.6- It was made by Zeiss for photocopying machines (electrostatische gerate)and is not a projection lens as incorrectly claimed by SKGrimes'website. Optimized for 1:1 magnification (will cover more than 8x10 at this magnification). Huge lens with fixed aperture (no iris). Front element (housing) rotatable to offer focus change. Front mounted shutter (from SKGrimes) is the best possibility. It is equivalent to the APO-Nikkor 300mm f/9 (which is also a Tessar -four elments in 3 groups- design)process lens. Of course, it is faster and with no adjustable diaphram. Strange as it may sound, you could put this to use for large format UV-Macro as it will let in quite a bit of UV and is corrected for it. I have not tried this yet myself. But I plan to...

Hello, I am a bit of a beginner, especially when it comes to large format photography, hence I usually do a bit of research before purchasing anything. The lens only cost about $30.00 and looked to be in nice condition, was coated and was a zeiss so I thought it would be a sound purchase. I am still considering just splitting the barrel and mounting it to a shutter that already has an aperture. With one of those circular pipe cutters I should be able to do this without damaging the optics... I don't know how accurate I can do this though. If the the distance between the elements was a little bit off I suppose it would matter a great deal. Thank you again for the information everyone, Peter

I bought one of these myself, already having a Speed Graphic. I probably bought mine from the same source, he seems to have a large number of them. I have only shot mine wide open but so far I have found that it is not very sharp.

 

Over the past 2 years I have bought 5 extremely inexpensive lenses, broken shutters, barrels, slow shutters, that sort of thing from 65mm to 300mm. The cheap lenses have provided me a wonderful learning experience and now I know which focal lengths I want to concentrate on getting better lenses for. The Speed Graphic shutter although great for this learning process is extremely limited by it's longest speed of 1/10 second and its camera shake below 1/60.

 

Good luck with your 300mm, it was inexpensive so don't worry about experimenting with it, just don't go too far with shutters etc...

take two sheets of polorized film 8by8 or what ever you prefer. mount one permentently in front of your opening, the second sheet if you decide to use the drop method-when it falls if turned the proper degrees will shut off all the light. try edmund scientific.also looking for other guys wanting to get into glassplate negative 20 by 30 inch--makeing your own b/w emulsion and optics to 72 inch focal length that you mount in a tent used with a inside focusing board-really big stuff-s.w. institute for photographic emulsion technique