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24 or 28mm FD Lens Guide


philip_tam

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<p>Hi, I've been looking to obtain a wide-angle prime for a Canon A-1. I'm seeing many options: 24 2.8's both in breach mount and the bayonet mount. There seems to be many 28mm options also that seem to be a bargain (in f 3.5 and 2.8).</p>

<p>My primary goal is low distortion and sharpness... doesn't have to be too fast. Any recommendations? I'm trying to keep it between $50-100.</p>

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<p>For an inexpensive and high quality 28 I would recommend the 28/2.8 FD SC. These would have gone out of production in 1978 or 1979 so make sure the one you get is in good condition. I don't think the later 28/2.8 New FD is quite as good but it may be easier to find one in good condition. When it comes to distortion, you shouldn't be doing flat copy work with any 28. In landscape photography a small amount of distortion in a wide angle will not be noticed. If you plan to do architectural photography then distortion is a consideration but is still caused more often by your shooting angle than by the inherent distortion of the lens. Some of the distortion can be touched up with image editing software if you scan the film.<br>

Most 24mm Canon lenses sell for more than $100. On this forum the 24/2 New FD seems to be the favorite. The 24/1.4 lenses would be out of the $100 price range too. That leaves the 24/2.8 FD SSC, the 24/2.8 chrome front FD, the odd 24/2.8 chrome front FD SSC and the 24/2.8 New FD. The one I have is the chrome front FD SSC. Its design dates back to the early 1970s and it was an early Canon floating element design. I really like mine and find it quite sharp but there is a fly in the ointment. Almost all of the 24/2.8 breech lock Canon lenses show separation in the rear element group. I had mine carefuly repaired by Ken Ruth at Photography On Bald Mountain. The repair itself would be at the top end of your $50-$100 range or a little more. Someone who has the 24/2.8 New FD will be able to let you know how good that lens is and you can check prices at the usual places. If you are willing to look at a non-Canon 24 I have a few suggestions: Vivitar 24/2.8 Fixed Mount, Vivitar 24.2.8 TX (interchangeable mount), Vivitar 24/2 (Ser. # 28XXX...), Vivitar 24/2 Ser. # 22XXX...), Sigma 24/2.8. The two Vivitars are made by Tokina and are decent if not spectacular. The 28XXX... 24/2 Vivitar is made by Komine and rarely has problems. I'm sure it isn't quite as sharp wide open as the New FD 24/2 but closed down a little it's very good. The 22XXX... Vivitar was made by Kino and is a decent lens but almost always has oil on its aperture blades. This will cost $50+ to have serviced. The 24/2.8 Sigma I am referring to is a late model lens. It's also a good performer even if it isn't seen very often.</p>

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<p>Philip, I have used a couple each of the FD 24mm and 28mm primes. My favourites are, not surprisingly, the FDn 24/2 and 28/2. The FD 24/2.8 SSC and 28/2.8 SC are also very fine, but are not quite as well corrected as their faster, younger siblings.</p>

<p>The FDn 28/2.8 is reportedly inferior to the earlier SC version, although I've never used the newer lens. As for the 24/2.8's, while the optical formula of the FD SSC and FDn versions are different, I'm afraid that I'm unable to comment on which is better since I've only used the earlier lens and haven't read any comparative assessments of them.</p>

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<p>If a lens has separation you can see it by looking through the back. The cement which holds some of the elements together loses its grip. If I have to guess, it dries out. When I saw that my 24 had that problem I immediately sent it out for service so I don't know exactly how pictures taken with it before the repair would look. You might get some kind of flare. I have seen the separation in all three versions of the lens.</p>
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<p>Thanks for all the advice everyone.</p>

<p>I think I will focus my search on the older 24's and 28's although they seem to be harder to find compared to the new 24's. I'll keep an eye out for them: KEH's inventory seems thin. I'm a bit wary about buying on Ebay, but I have done it before.</p>

<p>As for distortion, I can deal with perspective distortion, it's really barrel distortion that I want to keep relatively low. I mostly want to use the lens for landscape (where distortion won't be a problem) and in architecture/street/urban photos, where the distortion would be annoying.</p>

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<p>Get a good deal on an FD SC 28mm f 2.8, and then save up for a 24mm f2. If you do the same handwringing about barrel distortion that I do, you won't be happy with less than the new FD 24 f2. It's THAT good. KEH will have a Bargain grade once in a while for $160-200. Set aside a little personal slush fund. $5 a week adds up. </p>
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  • 2 weeks later...

<p>Back in the 1980s was when I was most active as an FD user. I switched to Nikon in 1989, then a year later added an EOS outfit to my gear, and sort of added to both over the past 20 years. Most recently, however, I've been picking up FD gear again, simply because I've missed it -- especially my old F-1s and FTbs. Anyway, back in the day, I started out with a 28mm, then "graduated" to a New FD 24mm f/2.8, and honestly, the 28mm was seldom used after that. So, my first bit of advice is, if you're looking to acquire only one lens, make it a 24mm. It is so much more useful to me than a 28m is. And I'll wager you'll agree.</p>

<p>So anyway, I really enjoyed my New FD 24mm f/2.8. It was sharp, contrasty, and had great color. Since I've gotten back into shooting FD, though, I haven't yet re-acquired a Canon 24mm. If I were to buy a Canon now, I also would be inclined toward a BL 24 SSC, and if my wallet permitted, an f/1.4 SSC. But in the interim I've acquired a Tamron 24mm f/2.5, and I've been <em>very</em> happy with this lens. I have compared it closely with my Nikkor AIs 24mm f/2.8, and have determined to my statisfaction that, overall, it is just a tad sharper than the Nikkor. It exhibits just a slight amount of ghosting wide open that the Nikkor doesn't, but other than that, it actually outperforms the Nikkor. Besides, it's about 1/3 stop faster too. As for distortion, with the sort of photography I've used it so far, I haven't noticed any, but then you be the judge. Here are a couple of pics I took at a photo shoot I attended several months ago. Canon F-1, Elite Chrome 100 side film, exposure unrecorded.</p>

<p><img src="http://michaelmcbroom.com/images/sabine_st_bridge/srb3.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="599" /></p>

<p><img src="http://michaelmcbroom.com/images/sabine_st_bridge/srb5.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="598" /></p>

<p> </p>

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  • 2 years later...
<p>Never let it be said I don't read posts, be they new or older and just tonight I found this sub forum concerning the 24 and 28 FD lens guide. I have just recently acquired a 24mm 2.8 and 28mm 2.8 both breech lock FD mount. I purchased the 24 intentionally but before it arrived I found the 28mm at a flea market / tech swap meet. I waited til the end of the day, the lens was still available so I haggled a bit and kabitzed with the seller a little about "old school" cameras and negotiated the price to 45 clams, with lens case and lens hood. Comparing the 24mm and 28mm breech, is wider better ? Other than weight is there any major difference between the breech and bayonet versions of these two lenses ? 34 years ago when I first put my A-1 "kit" together I was urged at that time to carry a 28mm 135mm and a 50mm lens. I think I was too visually challenged to make it work at that time. Once I have my other garage sale find, a Canon AE-1p, refurbed, I intend on keeping the 28 mounted until I use it enough to feel "accomplished". Which may be a long time :D</p><div>00bRYC-525095584.jpg.f9b75b9d20e2bcaead472589813ecadb.jpg</div>
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  • 6 years later...
<p>Back in the 1980s was when I was most active as an FD user. I switched to Nikon in 1989, then a year later added an EOS outfit to my gear, and sort of added to both over the past 20 years. Most recently, however, I've been picking up FD gear again, simply because I've missed it -- especially my old F-1s and FTbs. Anyway, back in the day, I started out with a 28mm, then "graduated" to a New FD 24mm f/2.8, and honestly, the 28mm was seldom used after that. So, my first bit of advice is, if you're looking to acquire only one lens, make it a 24mm. It is so much more useful to me than a 28m is. And I'll wager you'll agree.</p>

<p>So anyway, I really enjoyed my New FD 24mm f/2.8. It was sharp, contrasty, and had great color. Since I've gotten back into shooting FD, though, I haven't yet re-acquired a Canon 24mm. If I were to buy a Canon now, I also would be inclined toward a BL 24 SSC, and if my wallet permitted, an f/1.4 SSC. But in the interim I've acquired a Tamron 24mm f/2.5, and I've been <em>very</em> happy with this lens. I have compared it closely with my Nikkor AIs 24mm f/2.8, and have determined to my statisfaction that, overall, it is just a tad sharper than the Nikkor. It exhibits just a slight amount of ghosting wide open that the Nikkor doesn't, but other than that, it actually outperforms the Nikkor. Besides, it's about 1/3 stop faster too. As for distortion, with the sort of photography I've used it so far, I haven't noticed any, but then you be the judge. Here are a couple of pics I took at a photo shoot I attended several months ago. Canon F-1, Elite Chrome 100 side film, exposure unrecorded.</p>

<p><img src="http://michaelmcbroom.com/images/sabine_st_bridge/srb3.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="599" /></p>

<p><img src="http://michaelmcbroom.com/images/sabine_st_bridge/srb5.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="598" /></p>

<p> </p>

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Wow, what a blast from the past, my son was reading through this thread when his daughter saw the pictures mwmcbroom posted she said "there's pawpaw". I do remember that day at Sabine St. bridge. I had my Canon 20D with a 135mm soft focus lens hanging by my side and was shooting with my Bronica ETSRi camera with 85mm lens. I didn't know this got posted, cool. I believe I was using a 580EX with cowboy studio trigger and receiver to fire the flash. Both digital and film turned out well. I lost the digital file in a computer crash but should have the film shot stored somewhere. Sorry if I detracted from the original thread.
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