17mm ts e on an A2

Hi, does anyone know if there are any movement limitations with mounting a Canon 17mm ts e on an old A2? Thanks.

<p>If you're talking about an EOS A2 (aka EOS 5), I personally know of no exception to the rule that all non-EF-S Canon EOS lenses will mount on any EOS camera.<br>

I have the EOS 5, but alas, not yet the TS-E 17mm, - you have no idea how much I wish I could simply try out and see. ;)</p>

<p>The 17 TS-E does foul some cameras with built in flashes, but it comes with two shift knobs, one larger one for non flash cameras, and a smaller one, the one fitted by default, that is supposed to clear most cameras with pop up flashes.</p>

<p>Having said that, as the knob can only foul for horizontal shift I see no reason why you don't rotate the shift knob orientation to the bottom of the lens thus negating the issue.</p>

<p>If the vertical shift (up) hits the prism/flash, you can always turn the camera upside down (I had to do it in some orientations of the T/S lens on a 40D.)</p>

<p>Sorry, I was thinking only of the mount itself.</p>

<p>The EOS 5 (A2, A2e) does not have very much forward projection on the prism/flash head as shown in the picture below - not like some of the more extreme digital Rebels.</p><div></div>

I cannot comment on the EOS5 as all my film bodies are 1 series (plus a 3) so none of them have a built in flash. I do

however shoot a 7D sometimes and even with the smaller grip wheel on the lens it is a lot worse than a full frame / 1D

body. I don't have the camera and lens with me right now but I find the flash is a real pain as you are always seem to

be fiddling around the prism. The worst part is actually rotating the lens to change the shift or tilt plane. I think Michael

is probably right with the maximum upward shift but not having the lens and camera with me I cannot check.

Something else you should consider is that it is much harder to see your tilt effects with this lens without live view. In

addition tilt or shift with this lens can completely throw the meter off. For these reasons I tend to use the 17 almost

always on Digital

<p>I can’t comment specifically on the TS-E 17. With the original TS-E lenses, if the shift direction is set parallel to the short axis of the image frame, the lens can just barely be given full rise without contacting the flash housing. But you can’t rotate the T/S mechanism without hitting the housing. The contact would come from the casting for the T/S mechanism rather than a knob.</p>

<p>The TS-E 17 manual has this to say:</p>

<p>“Shifting will be easier if the supplied shift knob cap is mounted. However, for EOS cameras with built-in flash, the cap will come in contact with the camera during the lens’ mounting/detaching, or during shift/ rotation operation.”</p>

<p>This suggests that you’d be OK without the cap, but I doubt they checked this on the A2/A2E/5, and I don’t know how dimensions of the flash housing on the A2 differ from those of current models, so you still might want to ask someone who’s actually tried the combination (or can do so).</p>

Jeff they actually supply two shift knob "rubber grips" with the 17F4. The larger one is quite a bit bigger than the

smaller on but both work OK. As I say while mounting the lens and using it will be difficult you can do it on the 7D so

the EOS5 is probably OK. I think the big issue is metering. Obviously you meter then tilt or shift but with this lens I find

that even when you meter with the lens unshifted and then tilt and shift you can be out by as much as 1-2 EV with

large lens movements. With live view and the instant feedback of digital this is not a problem but with film it will be

more of an issue