1-piece vs. 2-piece L-brackets

Discussion in 'Accessories' started by Gary Nakayama - SF Bay Area, California, Nov 2, 2017.

  1. My first L-bracket was a 1-piece bracket.
    I see for the Nikon D7200, both RRS and Kirk have 2-piece L-brackets, but no 1-piece bracket.
    As an oldie, I would feel better with a 1-piece bracket vs. a 2-piece bracket. Eliminating the joint and all the potential problems that goes with a joint.
    I would like feedback from those of you who are using 2-piece brackets. Is my concern founded or not?
  2. Here is how I see it, Gary. If you want to buy the base plate alone you can save half the cost. That is one thing. As to the design of the two piece models by RRS, they are such that a firm locking arrangement is possible, so no weakness in the method they use. A slot which fits tight and a heavy duty bolt. I have a two piece that allows one to slide the vertical section to a desired position as well. As when one needs easier access to the panel with the jack outlets. I think also that the amount of metal to be milled ought to yield some savings by RRS or so they allege. So this is a joint that is a well regarded not a waterfront sytle Joint. Try one and see if you agree. L brackets are not for all occasions so two piece offers an entry and a choice. Seewhatimean?
  3. I have the two-piece Kirk L-bracket for my D7100 and the one-piece Kirk for the D750. The two-piece feels as solid as the the one-piece, and I have noticed no difference between the two in use. My two-piece for the D7100 came attached with the supplied bolts and (I believe) "permanent" loctite red, so that it isn't very practical to separate them to use the base plate alone. If you order them separate, you could attach them with the bolts and non-permanent loctite blue, which doesn't require heating to take apart, and should still be solid enough.
  4. I've been using 2-piece L-plates from RRS for several years, and have never had one loosen. If the screws are torqued adequately, they don't loosen. That's true for rifle scopes too, which are subject to 50-100 G's acceleration. I would use Loc-Tite only as an extreme measure. The proper torque for a #6 screw is 30-34 inch-lbs. Similar specs are available for metric screws. I have a torque driver for precision, but it's probably not necessary for an L-plate. If they loosen, tighten them. Just don't over-tighten.


    A two-piece assembly is essential for use with many mirrorless cameras, which have ports on the left side for various cables. The RRS L-plate is adjustable to alter the clearance for these ports.
  5. Thanks guys.
    Now I feel better about the 2-piece L-bracket.
  6. It's never a good idea to give a spec like this without qualifications. The "proper torque" depends greatly on the material the screw is made of as well as whether it is lubricated or not, and the thread pitch.

    The Holo-Krome spec is for a full-height "Allen head" screw; try this with a garden-variety hardware store screw and you'll most likely end up trying to get a broken screw out of the hole.

    Best to get your torque specs from the equipment manufacturer.

  7. Absolutely!
  8. I wrote RRS, and received the response that they have no specific torque recommendations. You should use the small (allen) wrench provided, applying as much force to the short end as practical with fingers alone. I wouldn't go to extremes. The pieces are mated together in a tightly fitting joint. Even if the screws loosen, it's not going anywhere, and you would notice it immediately mounting the camera vertically on a tripod. Even looseness in the base plate is not critical, since it is fitted to the camera bottom. Use moderate force and retighten the screws if they loosen. Do not use lubricant or thread locking agent.

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