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Bleaching Question


jerry_cunningham

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I would like to use a bleaching bath on my prints. I would just

like to try and add some "sparkle". The advice seems to be to use a

"weak solution" of Farmers reducer. Can someone give me some idea of

what the correct solution is and how long should the print be

immerged.

Thanks in advance,

Jerry Cunningham

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I do not remember without my notes. Depending on the proportion between sodium thiosulfate solution and K-ferrocynide solution the action ranges from mild to aggressive.

 

You need to presoak prints in water, and then limit the bleaching time for highlights to 10-30 seconds.

 

Bleached prints are not archival.

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According to Tim Rudman's book, "The Photographer's Master Printing Course":

1 part Sodium thiosulphate 10% + 1 part Potassium ferricyanide 1% +

2 parts water

 

Keep an unbleached print handy for comparison, and do less than you think you need, initially. It's easy to go too far. The book, by the way is a must-have.

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Jerry, Here are some other methods that may be of interest.....

 

Barry Thornton in his book 'Edge of Darkness' describes his method of 'drag bleaching' wherein the fully selenium toned print is placed in the dilute bath... highlights are brightened and texture is emphasized by enhancement of dark light relationships... as the shadow areas resist bleaching more than the highlights. The bleached print is washed, refixed, then rewashed. If the print is overbleached leaving blank highlights, it can be redeveloped in full room lighting... This is because Thornton's formula does not act as Farmers Reducer, which actually removes the photographic image. I have used this method with Agfa MCC 111FB. Thornton claims that on redevelopment the highlights have a 'cooler hue' distinguishing them further from warmer tones of shadows & mid tones but he must have a more distinguishing eye than I. His formula:

 

Bleach: Potassium Ferricyanide 10g

Potassium Bromide 5g

Stock Solution: H20 to 1 Litre..... Use at 4 or 5x dilution for control

 

Another method is that of Ralph Steiner(another non-farmer's) that I first encountered in an artilcle by Alfred A. Baker 'In Persuit of Highlights, How Ralph Steiner retained and enhanced his highlights'. This is quite a well known method but I have not used it as yet.

 

Steiner uses the following:

Solution A

Sodium Thiosulphate 32oz

Water 16oz

Solution B

Sodium Hydroxide 1oz (add the hydroxide to the water to avoid spattering)

Water 10oz

Solution C

Potassium ferricyanide 3oz

Water 10oz

 

Working Solution: to be made just prior to use... A 10oz....B 3/4oz, when these are mixed add C 1/4oz... Mix until you get a uniform yellow color. Use vigorous agitation. When sufficiently reduced place in stop bath. Before final washing use hypo-clearing solution for 15 min, then final wash of 30 minutes. One interesting thing about Steiner's method is that for slowing the reducing action the formula was augmented by the addition of granulated sugar to the A&B working solution until no more would dissolve then Solution C was added. I have no idea why this works but apparently it does.

 

There is also some bleaching instruction in 'The Print' by Ansel Adams.

 

Cheers Annie.

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Some photographers regulary bleach prints, but call the term

reduction. This takes place between the first and second fixing

bath. A wet print from the holding bath is viewed in good light on

a makeshift plexiglass easel placed at a low angle in the sink. A

solution of potassium ferricyanide and water is prepared�start

on the weak side, and evalutate the strength on a tosser print.

Squeegee the print of surface water, and evaluate what areas

need reducing in terms of the overall composition�perhpas

dense shadow areas, or a highlight that is a little too gray. Paint

on the solution, and rinse it off before it goes as far as you want it

to go, because it will keep working as you rinse it. You can

always squeegee and further reduce. When you are satisfied,

rinse, then fix the print in the second fixing bath.

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I use this only as a last resort, and follow Adams. He calls for a dry print and

very short times -- just a few seconds. You have to rinse out the bleach quickly

and vigorously. I have had a few start going brown after a few months, so I

probably did something wrong.

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My article <a href=http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Printing/printing.html>Tips on Printing</a> contains information on selective bleaching of prints. You must refix your prints after bleaching and wash thoroughly. Bleached prints that are processed properly should be as archival as any other silver print, especially if toning is done afterward.
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