jerry_cunningham Posted May 25, 2003 Share Posted May 25, 2003 I would like to use a bleaching bath on my prints. I would just like to try and add some "sparkle". The advice seems to be to use a "weak solution" of Farmers reducer. Can someone give me some idea of what the correct solution is and how long should the print be immerged. Thanks in advance, Jerry Cunningham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wieslaw1 Posted May 26, 2003 Share Posted May 26, 2003 I do not remember without my notes. Depending on the proportion between sodium thiosulfate solution and K-ferrocynide solution the action ranges from mild to aggressive. You need to presoak prints in water, and then limit the bleaching time for highlights to 10-30 seconds. Bleached prints are not archival. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henry_friedman Posted May 26, 2003 Share Posted May 26, 2003 According to Tim Rudman's book, "The Photographer's Master Printing Course": 1 part Sodium thiosulphate 10% + 1 part Potassium ferricyanide 1% + 2 parts water Keep an unbleached print handy for comparison, and do less than you think you need, initially. It's easy to go too far. The book, by the way is a must-have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ann_m Posted May 26, 2003 Share Posted May 26, 2003 Jerry, Here are some other methods that may be of interest..... Barry Thornton in his book 'Edge of Darkness' describes his method of 'drag bleaching' wherein the fully selenium toned print is placed in the dilute bath... highlights are brightened and texture is emphasized by enhancement of dark light relationships... as the shadow areas resist bleaching more than the highlights. The bleached print is washed, refixed, then rewashed. If the print is overbleached leaving blank highlights, it can be redeveloped in full room lighting... This is because Thornton's formula does not act as Farmers Reducer, which actually removes the photographic image. I have used this method with Agfa MCC 111FB. Thornton claims that on redevelopment the highlights have a 'cooler hue' distinguishing them further from warmer tones of shadows & mid tones but he must have a more distinguishing eye than I. His formula: Bleach: Potassium Ferricyanide 10g Potassium Bromide 5g Stock Solution: H20 to 1 Litre..... Use at 4 or 5x dilution for control Another method is that of Ralph Steiner(another non-farmer's) that I first encountered in an artilcle by Alfred A. Baker 'In Persuit of Highlights, How Ralph Steiner retained and enhanced his highlights'. This is quite a well known method but I have not used it as yet. Steiner uses the following:Solution A Sodium Thiosulphate 32oz Water 16ozSolution B Sodium Hydroxide 1oz (add the hydroxide to the water to avoid spattering) Water 10ozSolution C Potassium ferricyanide 3oz Water 10oz Working Solution: to be made just prior to use... A 10oz....B 3/4oz, when these are mixed add C 1/4oz... Mix until you get a uniform yellow color. Use vigorous agitation. When sufficiently reduced place in stop bath. Before final washing use hypo-clearing solution for 15 min, then final wash of 30 minutes. One interesting thing about Steiner's method is that for slowing the reducing action the formula was augmented by the addition of granulated sugar to the A&B working solution until no more would dissolve then Solution C was added. I have no idea why this works but apparently it does. There is also some bleaching instruction in 'The Print' by Ansel Adams. Cheers Annie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_mcdonald Posted May 26, 2003 Share Posted May 26, 2003 Some photographers regulary bleach prints, but call the term reduction. This takes place between the first and second fixing bath. A wet print from the holding bath is viewed in good light on a makeshift plexiglass easel placed at a low angle in the sink. A solution of potassium ferricyanide and water is prepared�start on the weak side, and evalutate the strength on a tosser print. Squeegee the print of surface water, and evaluate what areas need reducing in terms of the overall composition�perhpas dense shadow areas, or a highlight that is a little too gray. Paint on the solution, and rinse it off before it goes as far as you want it to go, because it will keep working as you rinse it. You can always squeegee and further reduce. When you are satisfied, rinse, then fix the print in the second fixing bath. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pemongillo Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 Bleached prints ARE archival as long as they are processed in the same way you normally make archival prints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffrey_james Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 I use this only as a last resort, and follow Adams. He calls for a dry print and very short times -- just a few seconds. You have to rinse out the bleach quickly and vigorously. I have had a few start going brown after a few months, so I probably did something wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ed b. Posted May 28, 2003 Share Posted May 28, 2003 My article <a href=http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Printing/printing.html>Tips on Printing</a> contains information on selective bleaching of prints. You must refix your prints after bleaching and wash thoroughly. Bleached prints that are processed properly should be as archival as any other silver print, especially if toning is done afterward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now