How to pick a PYRO

Having waded throught he archives I find myself more confused than

when I started...

 

I keep meaning to try out Pyro and figure this is the time.

 

First, which pyro is good for rotary (jobo) developing - mainly 8x10

 

Next, after that, what is the pyro forumla of choice

 

Films - probably FP4 HP5 and Tri-X

 

 

thanks

Rotary: No contest, pyrocat HD is the choice. Less finicky, cleaner working, no hassle developer. www.unblinkingeye.com has some articles.

 

Clay

I'm sure there are plenty who will correct me if I'm wrong here, but this is what I

know:

 

Rollo Pyro is the preferred version of Pyro for rotary processing as it performs better

than other flavors with constant agitation.

 

PMK has been perhaps the most popular version of Pyro for enlarger users (I think

ABC is pretty popular with contact printers), although it is well documented on this

board that PMK's stain can be difficult to print with VC papers (the greenish stain

blocks highlights). My experience (500+ sheets) with PMK and graded papers has

been excellent, but I too have struggled with VC heads and PMK. Get Hutching's book

The Book of Pyro.

 

WD2D is a long standing formula from Wimberely - even Hutchings points out in his

book that Wimberely is largely responsible for the resurgance in Pyro use. A couple

months ago, Wimberley re-worked his version of Pyro which is now called WD2D+

and is available exclusively from Photographers Formulary. I've done some

substancial testing with it and found that it works much better for me when using a

VC head. I'm actually very pleased with this developer and now prefer it over PMK.

The stain seems to hold highlights much better for me than PMK. There is a post on

here which shows an example of the same image developed in PMK and WD2D+

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=004jfb

 

I guess the best way to "pick a Pyro" is to try them.

I find that Pyrocat HD works very well in trays & friends find it works very well in their JOBO processors. Easy to use & no wierd staining variations. Haven't tried the WD2D+ because I refuse to purchase anything through Photographers Formulary.

Tim,

I found this quick PYRO FAQ the other day. It answered for me some basic stuff. http://www.bostick-sullivan.com/main/pyro_page.htm

Tim,

 

There is a book of photographs by the late and estimable Ralph Steiner, at

the end of which he gives an interview about his techniques. On the question

of developers, he says that essentially they are all the same, except one

which is toxic and carcinogenic (he was an old man at the time). He was

talking about Pyro, which does have a remarkable tonal range. But I don't

think it's good for you. I have used it and like it, but if you are shooting 8/10

you can get great negatives with the simplest of chemicals -- it's such a

generous format. Beware the search for perfection. Be content with good

work.

Tim, I'm a Pyro addict. Can't leave the stuff alone EVEN THOUGH no matter what I try I get un-even development along the edges that raises density sometimes a 1/2 inch in from the edges. I have Jobo 2500 series tank for the 4X5. It turns my 4X5's into 3 1/4 X 4 1/4's. Weird edge effects. The best I've been able to do is 1 at a time in trays. 5X7 and larger this way. Still have weird edge variations. I've never tried the PyroCat HD. I'm going to check myself into pyrohaulics anon and get some D76 so I can print from decent negs again sometime. Can't help myself. Hooked on the green negs and nice edge effects when the darn stuff works.

Tim, I started working with pyro about a year ago. First, I used up a supply of ABC+ from the Photographer's formulary. It and rollo pyro are supposed to be similar and were developed for use in the jobo. I liked the negatives pretty good, but the stain does tend to reduce contrast. ABC, which I am trying now, would not work in a rotary processor without some fiddling because it oxidizes too fast. It is simple to use, in trays. If you are going to stick with the jobo, I would recommend ABC+ or rollo pyro, and get enough to really figure it out before you try something else. Good luck.

Tim, I use PMK with a JOBO and expert drums for my 8X10. I split the PMK into 2 even batches of 750ml each and split the time in half to "recharge" the developer. The time in the developer is altered for +n, n -n, ect. I drain (and save the oxidized PMK for the final "soak") the first 750ml and refill with the final 750ml. I prefer a slower speed and a bit higher temp (70 degrees). I process five at a time and seldom have uneven development problems.

 

 

1. Start timing

2. pour first 750ml

3. at "half-time", drain first 750ml

4. pour in second 750ml

continue with stop, fix, and "after-developer" treatment

I'm a recent Pyrocat-HD convert. Have tried it in tanks and trays, rollfilm and 9x12cm/4x5"/5x7" sheet and have found it a consistently good performer. No problems with uneven development - except when the roll slid up the spindle carrying a 120-film out of the soup due to overenthusiastic agitation.

 

The films I've used are: Pan F+ (120), FP4+ (4x5, 120), APX100 (9x12), EFKE PL100 (9x12), HP5+ (5x7, 120), TXP (120). All nice, but I prefer EFKE to AGFA due to better stain.