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Contax T3 - User Comments, Discussion (PART 2)


eajames

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John,

 

<p>

 

I wonder if Glen would let us have our own T3 list, or perhaps all T-

users' list? I'm currently on the G-User list, which has many people

but only a handful contribute regularly... those who are quite active

with photography. It's a good way to communicate with the group and

notifying them to check out the latest photos.

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Well, I found a bit of time, and I knocked up a Contax discussion

board. I strongly felt there should be no ads, no pop ups (my pet

hate), and no registration even required.

Even if you do register only logon name and email is needed

(which can be kept private).

 

<p>

 

Of course the board is totally empty it has literally just come off

the press.

 

<p>

 

Any suggestions which I can accomodate please post to the free

chat on that board. (at the moment it's just a discussion board)

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Well, I found a bit of time, and I knocked up a Contax discussion

board. I strongly felt there should be no ads, no pop ups (my pet

hate), and no registration even required.

Even if you do register only logon name and email is needed

(which can be kept private).

 

<p>

 

Of course the board is totally empty it has literally just come off

the press.

 

<p>

 

Any suggestions which I can accomodate please post to the free

chat on that board. (at the moment it's just a discussion board)

 

<p>

 

ALMOST forgot the URL!

http://webxone.com/contax

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Kwen,

 

<p>

 

Thank you so much for setting up the discussion board! This is much

nicer than anything I could ever have accomplished. I have two minor

suggestions:

 

<p>

 

1. You might want to have a Welcome thread where you can state the

general aims of the board and take suggestions (I couldn't find

the "free chat" are you mentioned.)

 

<p>

 

2. I suggest placing the T3 thread over/ahead of the T2 thread, as I

believe there will be more activity there.

 

<p>

 

3. May we promote the board/list on user user groups, or have you

done this already. I will be glad to do so but not unless you give

the go ahead. Let me know by email.

 

<p>

 

Thanks again.

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John many thanks for the comments.

 

<p>

 

I will try to accomodate your suggestions.

 

<p>

 

I haven't promoted it yet, I really set it up for no commercial

reasons really but for the benefit of the people of this board who I

feel have great integrity, i.e. no need to moderate this board.

This thread was getting rather large in size, and cumbersome as

it was just one long thread.

 

<p>

 

I was unsure about promoting it myself as it is 'blowing my own

trumpet' so to speak (a bit cheap), and didn't want to be too 'in

yer face' come and visit my site so to speak. If you want to

mention it then feel free : ) Obviously the more mentions the

better.

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Every now and then my T3 will close and the lens cover shutter blades

stick open a bit. I have to gently tap the lens barrel and then they

close all the way. This mechanism seems awfully fragile. Does anyone

else have any experience with this happening? It happens about every

50 pictures or so. It seems to be improving though. I am debating

sending it in since it works so great I am afraid they may screw it

up.

 

<p>

 

Al

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I have noticed several comments on the web about autofocus problems

with the T3. I think understanding the T3 autofocus helps. The T3 is

passive and evaluates in the vertical plane. This requires two

things: 1.some contrast and 2.a vertical component in the scene. I

noticed someone who could not focus on a sunset. There are two

options here. The slower option is setting manual focus to infinity.

I use an easy approach and hold the camera at 90 degrees (get

vertical component into scene) and put the focus ring on the horizon.

My T3 focuses at infinity every time here. then while holding the

shutter half way down I rotate back to 0 degrees, compose and shoot.

I find most scenes focus fine after I compose but when I have trouble

I look for the vertical edge in the scene. Of course you can always

use focus lock and verify the results if you want to be extra sure. I

have not taken an out of focus picture with my T3.

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Thank-you Kwen for setting up the new T3 message board. I'll be

posting there from now. I wonder if we could (or should) do a group

email to all those on this threads, inviting them to join? Any

thoughts?

 

<p>

 

T3 Focus: Al hit it on the nail. T3 needs contrast and vertical lines

to perform its focus. If vertical lines are not available, just turn

the camera (with the focus plane fixed) to achieve focus, push AF

Lock button. I usually just hold down the shutter release button and

reframe to shoot.

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I read earlier today about Kwen's discovery on the spot focus. Yep it

works that way. I hadn't noticed that. I did all my testing with the

AFL button. This is a great peice of info. If I could only have one

I'd pic the spot focus but it sure helps to know that the focus area

is larger with normal operation.

 

<p>

 

I got back some slides this morning that were shot on 100 ASA Fuji. I

looked at them under 20 power microscope. The results are awesome.

Even the corners. My F100 and prime pro lenes do no better. This is

the first good compact camera I have ever owned. I'm hooked.

 

<p>

 

This sure is a helpful forum. Thanks everybdy!

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I just took a look at some pictures of the T3 'Contax 70 years'

special edition. The hard-case that comes with it looks very

nice... Looks a bit brownish. which goives the whole thing a

classic look. Does anyone know if this bottom part is the same

thing as comes with the semi-hard case that can be bought

seperately? May be I am wrong and the thing is not brown at all...

 

<p>

 

Thanks,

Armand

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Niki, I pondered your question if to email people, but decided

against it. This way it can be interpreted as spam, and if people

want to participate they can visit www.contax.org.uk

 

<p>

 

I haven't even promoted it myself except in search engines, if the

users think it is good, they will pass on the message. (Thanks

for John for passing it on)

 

<p>

 

Once people learn that contax.org.uk is non-commercial, and

has no ads, no popups, no spamming, no requirement to

register to make or view a post, and only a 2 question sign up,

your logon and email for password, (if they do sign up), hopefully

they will realise that the site is dedicated in the interests of the

users, for the users in the pursuit of sharing Contax knowledge.

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Hello,

 

<p>

 

I just took delivery of a T3. Lovely camera - just one problem... after 1/2 roll of film (my first roll), the lens will no longer extend, nor will the camera turn on. I just get 3 little whirs and then nothing. Sigh. I'm about to send it back, but I'm wondering if this has happened to others and/or if there is something I can do about it myself.

 

<p>

 

Cheers.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Please comment on

 

<p>

 

1) Hazards of keeping a T3 in a hot car much of the time (not

glovebox). I want to have it available all the time but live in a hot

climate most of the year. Does the heat damage the camera at all?

 

<p>

 

2) Recommended EV settings when shooting available light (800 ASA) at

a theater stage. Plus or minus and how many stops?

 

<p>

 

Thanks

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FYI regarding polarizers for the T3. I have the TVS II and found

that using a circular polarizer (which is about twice the depth of a

standard filter) causes substantial vignetting. I suspect this will

be the case with the T3 as well. Stick with a linear filter - if

you can find one.

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  • 2 months later...
I've used the T3 for a year now almost exclusively for rock climbing photography, including multi-day alpine ascents and big walls in Yosemite. In other words I've put this camera through extreme temperatures, lots of impact on granite, and just last week on a high bivi I, unknowingly, sat on it all night! It is not a fragile camera! The only problems thus far are as follows: 1) the lens cover sticks open alot. It is too fragile to take much hard use. 2) The viewfinder gets dust in it very quickly. This does not bother me when looking through the finder, it just seems that the large bits of dust should not get in so easily. 3) The camera is not up to shooting on bright sunshine on glaciers or snowfields... one almost has to stick to Velvia 50 for any snow work. In short, this may be the best climbers' camera made thus far. It sits on my back on a secure, homemade webbing sling on almost all my climbs... I just insert it into an old Lowe Pro sunglass case with a velcro flap closure. I have an zip-lock bag tucked into the bottom of the case which I insert the camera in when it starts to snow or rain. It just keeps on ticking! My only caveat is as follows: in extreme cold the battery gets weak. For such this contingency I carry a Rollei 35SE as my second camera... usually loaded with print film. Not as saturated, but very reliable, and sometimes capable of a unique SE color rendition that I, personally, enjoy.
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  • 8 months later...

Hello,

Very useful forum on T3. Make me seriously consider to buy one. May I know more about the meter, is spot meter available in T3, if not what is the meter system in T3?

 

Is the filter mount on T3 metal or plastic?

 

Do you have any problem in using fill in flash and night portrait flash?

 

Thanks.

 

Terence

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