High End Light Meters - update please

Recently I made my first step in MF and bought Fuji GSW & GW cameras.

Wonderful machines! Thanks a lot for all your valuable input in

making this decision .

 

Now it is time to upgrade my light meter (Gossen Pilot). I prefer to

go for one device including spot- and incident metering. After going

through the specs I shortlisted Sekonic 608, 508 and Gossen Starlite

with a slight preference for the 608.

 

On this forum the indepth discussions on these meters are at least 2

years old. Has anything changed in the meantime?

 

Do the Sekonics still have the calibration drift problem and are more

or less useless for accurate metering?

 

Does the display cover of the Gossen Starlite still break after at

most 2 days of use? Is the user interface still counterintuitive and

a pain to use?

 

In other words: Should I forget my current favourites and go for a

Minolta Autometer instead?

 

Please refrain from discussing the 1001 features all these meters

have. I am more interested in overall reliability, accuracy and ease

of use.

Todd: I've had a Gossen Starlite for about a year now and I have been very pleased with it. Haven't had any problems with the display cover, and I don't find it at all difficult to use. I don't have a Sekonic, so I can't compare it to that, but I've been a user of Gossen meters for many years and in terms of quality, accuracy, and features this one gives me all that I want or should ever need.

<p>Hello Todd</p>

<p>I don't know if you have seen it already but Michael Reichmann has a <a

href="http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/accessories/l-

608.shtml">detailed review of the Sekonic L-608</a> on his site <a href="http://

www.luminous-landscape.com/">The Luminous Landscape</a>. Hope this helps.</

p>

<p>My 2 cents.</p>

I've had a Minolta Spotmeter for about 5 years and it's doing fine. It's got all kinds of features I never use. The one it does not have that I would use is 2 different film speeds. I end up doing this in my head and every now and then I get it wrong.

<P>

I use a Hasselblad meter knob for incident metering. I prefer having 2 for backup and because if I want to travel light I just take the knob.

thx Bruno, I check luminious landscape sporadically but obviously missed this one.

 

Is anyone aware of a comparable Gossen Starlite review which is available online?

I have had the 408 for about 2.5 years now, at work and use it hard. Never

had any drifts, problems, or been let down with it at all. My personal shooting,

I use the Pentax Digi spot and see no problem with the wider spot of the 408

at work. To me it is just another tool and to spend the extra money on the 608

was a bit much because I don't need everything else. The Minolta is also a

good meter and either one you will be happy with. Go with your gut and you

will do fine!

I use a sekonic L-508 and couldn´t be happier, haven´t noticed any calibration drift problems. Have used it in a wide variety of temperatures and rain (-30c beeing the coldest, and pouring rain as the wettest) no problems what so ever... it just soldiers on. The layout of the controls are very easy to understand, didn´t even bother to read the instruction manual. Only common misstake so far has been to remember to slide the switch when changing between spot and incident. Highly recomended.

Just read through the luminous landscape review mentioned above. A bit thin to use friendly words. I am not really sure if the author has used the 608 for some time. It reads like the typical "writer gets the product for free and the manufacturer gets a good review" type of thing.

 

At least I learned that the 608 needs a lithium cell compared to a AA cell for the 508. Assume this change was necessary due to the build in radio transmitter. Looking at battery costs isn't this more a drawback for people not working in a studio?

I second Minolta meters. I've used various Minolta meters for decades and

have never been disappointed

Chip

the 608 eats batteries for breakfast lunch and dinner...$$$$ the 508 is much better power wise but does not have a digital eye display when spot metering. i'd go for the 508

 

0.02

I have been using the Sekonic L-358 for over a year now and I have never had any calibration drift. I used to meter from my hand to obtain the best readings and have stopped doing that since I get the exact same readings in reflective mode. The meter is bang on accurate, if you know how to use it, and know what you want from the scene. In many ways I don't think meters are at fault but peoples understanding of how they should be used. You can't just meter a scene and expect the meter to understand where you want your values, that takes a brain.

 

Gards, Si

I've used a 508 for several years now primarily in spot mode,

and have no evidence of inaccuracy or calibration drift. Of course

this might be because my shutter speeds and apertures are out

a little and the meter is compensating? But hold on, I have leaf

shutter lenses so that argument fails unless I've got four lenses

all out to the same degree/direction. There is a guy that keeps

saying that Sekonics lead to underexposure, but on reading his

stuff it only affects incident mode and then you can correct it by

putting your thumb over the "spot" eyepiece to stop stray light

getting in.

 

The result as far as I'm concerned is that I can use Velvia without

the need to bracket. Part of that is process, part is the fact that

the Sekonic gives me exposures which fit well with my concept of

what's "right".

 

Reliability- well after several years of pro use where just about

every exposure creates several readings I get the same

readings as ever and I've had no repairs or servicing at all, and

I'd guess that I've taken 100k spot readings. The paint has

worn off the lettering which describes the buttons so it's as well I

know what they are. The spot unit seems looser than it was

when I first got it, but it hasn't fallen to pieces yet. I do keep

saying though that reliability varies greatly from example to

example and just because I have a good one doesn't really

guarantee that you'll get the same. Still that's the same with

cars, computers or whatever- there's more variation in reliability

between examples of the same device than there is between the

averages of different devices. It's a bit pot luck I'm afraid.

If I were buying either I'd go with the 508. I think the 608 has some nice improvements but costs too much more and is too hungry on the batteries.

 

I'll also second the suggestions for Minolta meters. I've had an Autometer IV F for a while and dropped it, poked at it with umbrellas and generally abused it and it still works fine. I do calibrate it on occaision and it's still dead on. Tough meter.

Todd,

 

I've done a little informal research of late because I need a spot meter and decided to get one meter that will do everything I need. I�ve recently made some exposures that I could have hit more accurately with a spot meter. Obviously all of the meters you mention will do a good job. However, I elected to go with the Starlite. I've had great service from my Luna Pro F that I bought used in 1981. I like the look of the Starlite. I know that may sound silly, but when confronted with products that are more or less of equal capability, why not pick the one with the design that is most pleasing. After all, I�ll be using the meter several times weekly, so the look and feel are important. The Starlite is also less expensive than some of the others. The best current price I�ve seen for it is $470 (USA).

 

Happy metering,

 

Joe Stephenson

Addendum

 

I went to my local camera shop to order the Gossen Starlite. However, after I got home after placing the order I got a call from the camera store and was told that the price had gone to $580. I canceled the order and placed an order with B & H where the $470 price was still in effect. My local dealer told me that the price had gone up on new orders and that the $470 price was for an item already in stock.

 

So, if they are giving me accurate information, anyone planning on buying a Starlite would be advised to act quickly.

 

Cheers,

 

Joe Stephenson

Sekonic L408, hands-down. Light, compact, no revolving incident dome head to shap off. Reads 5-degree spot (with built-in viewfinder)and incident, either flash, ambient or both. Runs on 1 AA battery, is sealed against minor moisture and splashes. The perfect meter for outdoor use.

Thx for all your comments. It is good news that all meters mentioned are useful tools without hidden traps to avoid.

 

For me their is only one open issue left, which is the power consumption of the 608.

 

Could anyone with practical experience make a bit more understandable what the general reproaches above mean in daily usage?

 

How often do you exchange the battery?

 

Is battery drain an issue in all modes or only in the flash/ radio transmitter mode?

 

For how long works a lithium cell in the 608 compared to a AA cell in the 508?

The batteries for the 608 last quite a while as long as you get into the habit of turning it off after each use. The batteries aren't too expensive from a mail order company, but from your corner store in an emergency you will be stung badly - so always have a spare tucked away in the camera bag. Also, the built in battery indicator is pretty well useless as it indicates 'full charge' up until the last second, and then 'empty', and once it is empty you are lucky to get one more reading from it... However, don't let the battery consumption put you off this fine tool.

In response to you last question regarding battery comparison between the 508 and 608.. As a new user of a 508 i can only quote the book, which hope will be of some help !..

If the measuring button is press continuously, at normal room temp battery life is as follows.

manganese..10 hours

alkaline...20 hours

lithium....35 hours.

will not take the nicad or niH batteries...

best

colman lucas