Nikon D100 underexposure

I just picked up a Nikon D100. After a few test runs, it seems as if

it is underexposing by quite a bit. Has anyone else had this

problem? What seems to be the best solution in combating this issue?

Consensous seems to be that the camera underexposes to make sure highlight aren't blown out. There are a number of custom tone curves that you can download or you can make up your own to deal with the problem. To load the curves into the camera you need Nikon capture3. You can use the 30 day demo to do this.

Are you looking at the Histogram to dermine that the camera is underexposing?

Dial in +0.3 or +0.7 EV compensation. Or change the metering method to

manual spot. My D100 also tends to underexpose on auto matrix. It is a safety

feature to prevent blowing out the highlights. Expect to spend some time post-

processing your images. The D100 isn't a point and shoot.

I have been in contact with Nikon about this situation, the nikon tech had me email a typical photo in .JPG large/fine format.(reset the camera)(had to use a Nikon lens)

he decided that my underexposure was unacceptable and had me contact service for a case number to send the camera back to nikon.

when looking at the histogram in Photoshops level adjust, the bottom right levels were nil, about 1/4 - 1/3 the entire histogram.

i'll let you know how it comes out.

regards

Doug

When I use a flash the results are always underexposed. I set the flash to +1.0EV right off the bat. What ever happenned to the 18% gray that the meters wanted to make things?

I've had my D100 for about two weeks and have shot about 500 frames, a combination of natural light, on camera strobe and studio strobe. I don't believe the camera "underexposes". Thats not to say that many shots don't come back with a histogram that can be improved by moving the white level to the left.

 

I think film shooters have come to believe that 'matrix metering' will accurately meter all situations, and if it doesn't on the D100, it must be something wrong with the camera. The only 'problem' is that the camera provides instant feedback on your metering failures, as opposed to printing fixing poorly exposed negatives.

 

I do a mixed bag of photography including LF and MF as well as 35 mm and do a lot of metering with both hand held and builtin meters. I find if you do a careful job of using the spot meter or centerweighted meter as required, the exposures from the D100 can be spot on.

 

A test of the meter calibration would be an exposure of a uniformly illuminated target. It should come out with a histogram centered on the display. You can do this with available light or flash. My D100 comes out exactly centered. If this test comes out right, I suggest looking at your metering technique.

 

Uploaded new tone curves will change contrast, but will not change exposure.

I did exposure tests with the same camera, using a Minolta light meter as a reference. On certain subjects, especially shooting the ocean with a polarizer, it was over 1/2 stop underexposed. On any scene with a small very white area, such as a wave in the distance, it will underexpose. On contrastly scenes such as full sun middle of the day shots, it will under expose.

I had got used to this with my CP990, and always used +.7ev outdoors, but I was surprised to find I need exactly the same for my D100.

How were you using the Minolta meter? Incident, average, spot? What mode was the D100 metering in? My point was that it is impossible to evaluate a meters calibration with an arbitrary scene.