How to get film out of 35mm cartridge?

It really isn't that complicated. It's not like film is made of high-tension spring steel that's going to shoot out across the darkroom into the fixer tray, knocking an open five-litre jug of Dektol stock onto the paper safe along the way. You just hold on to the spool, and it will stay in your hand.

Thanks Darryn. So one second, close as you can judge, beyond moment "0" displays? Does it make any ominous noises when you do this, or just shuts down electrically?

 

Since I'm not intending film to go back in camera, I'll probably stick with prying off cartridge end, per earlier posters. I've practiced on garbage roll and found it pretty easy. Old dog learning new tricks.

 

I was just used to the other way. I would always crimp the leader of exposed roll on diagonal, to identify it.

 

Apparently, some (nikons?) motor drive cameras can be adjusted to stop with leader out. I emailed Pentax on this, they've aknowledged receipt but nothing back as yet.

David, I agree. I've been practicing with a scrap roll, film stays coiled, albeit a little looser, when out of cartridge. For a little humour, read Michael Veit's response at:

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0040KY

The behavior of film varies with humidity and how long it has been tightly wound on a spool. Sometimes the film is relaxed and easy to handle; sometimes it has a strong memory and remains tightly coiled. You just have to be assertive and make it follow your will!

Joe

I use the Ilford leader-retriever and I've never had a problem with scratched film. Otherwise just use a bottle opener and prise the bottom off the cassette.

P.S. - the first 6-8 inches of the film are fogged/blank anyway and the leader-retriever only intrudes about 3" into the cassette.

<b><i>the first 6-8 inches of the film are fogged/blank anyway and the leader-retriever only intrudes about 3" into the cassette.</b></i><br><br>

 

You took the words out of my mouth.

A beer bottle opener (church key) is the way to go. The end pops off of a 35mm container with ease. Besides, you'll need one if you plan on drinking decent beer. The good stuff doesn't come in screw cap bottles.

 

When I worked with 35mm film, I kept a bottle opener and a small pair of scissors on a string and cheap carabiner I could clip to my belt loops. That way I didn't have to grope around the table for the opener to pop the can and scissors to cut the leader.

 

D.M Elick

I cast a vote for leaving the leader out or retrieving it. With the leader out, you can trim the film properly to load a reel and start loading the film before turing off the lights. Makes for much easier and consistent loading of the reels. Wish it would work with 120/220. FWIW.

A further thought. When you unload the exposed film, make a fold in the leader to indicate that it is exposed.

Mendel asked about Nikons that leave the leader out when they rewind. I don't know about all of the different models but I do use an F3 with MD4 motor drive and MF-6B back. The purpose of the back is to leave the leader sticking out when you rewind.

 

There are really only two reasons why you may want this. First, if you want to change film in mid roll. I rewind, and write with a marker how many frames have been shot on to the film leader. When the film is reloaded, the camera is advanced with the lens cap on, back to the original frame count plus one for safety.

 

The second reason is that I cut off the leader of the fully exposed roll so that it's ready for the reel, and also to prevent me from re-exposing the roll.

 

As for opening the film can, I wind the leader back into the can after trimming it, and use a bottle opener like everyone else.

A tip... if you ever use a can opener in a changing bag, or in any tight space, I reccomend wraping masking tape or some other tape over the sharp can opener end of the church key. It is easy to scratch film in the small space inside the bag.

Another simple trick, maybe softer and safer than the bottle opener trick...:

 

You can also use "Dymo" tape as a leader extractor. (Dymo is the brand; I'm pretty sure there are equivalent).

As it is becoming old fashioned nowadays: Dymo is a slightly rigid plastic tape. It's designed to by punched by a special tool leaving letters on it.. For film extraction purposes, you just need the tape, which is cheap.

 

On daylight:

You remove protective layer of the tape. Insert the Dymo tape in the film canister, with the sticking side facing the inner side of the roll.

Bring firmly the canister and the axis on which the film is rolled, so that the film won't turn into its cartridge. Insert the dymo until you feel it's rubbing on the film. Then, drag a little the dymo out, still holding the axis. This way, you push the dymo tape on the film to help them stick more firmly. Check if it is sticking hardly enough. If not repeat from start.

Then, forget to hold the axis. If it sticks firmly enough, drag the leader of the film out of the canister.

 

Then you can remove dymo and go into darkroom.

Drag your whole film out.

When you reach the end of the film (the whole length is out of the cartridge), just take scissors and cut.

 

It also allows you to get the leader of the film out if you accidentally left your camera rewind the whole film.

1: I have a Pentax MZ-5n too. I wish it would leave the leader out...

 

2: The "civilized" way is to use a bottle opener. The "efficient" way is as follows:

 

1) Grab film cassette FIRMLY in hand, protruding end of spool projecting over the side of your hand opposite the thumb - outside your fist. Not too much, not too little.

 

2) Slam fist down on firm surface.

 

If this is done correctly, the lid pops off and remains in your hand. When it doesn't work, you can a) crumple the cassette, b) break the spool, or c) hurt yourself badly.

 

Nevertheless, this is my preferred method...