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1:1 and Beyond?


ky2

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I'm looking for the perfect (optically, and financially) setup to

explore Macro photography on my newly purchased S2 PRO. I have

previous macro experience with Canon's EOS, but I would appreciate

any help, comments, suggestions you would be lucky to toss my way...

 

Cheers,

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I don't think there is a "perfect" way. Almost all have benefits and compromises. Here's what I have and have used in the past:

 

- closeup diopters. Most convenient on a telezoom such as 75-300 range. I use a 3T and 4T on a 75-150/3.5E most of the time. May not get you 1:1 depending on the lens but will enable you to acquire close focusing with your non-macro lens.

 

- BR-2A reversing ring for 52mm filter size lenses. This can get you beyond 1:1, if you already have a 35mm or wider prime lens. A reversed 50mm will yield approximately 1:1 ratio. A reversed 28mm will yield double lifesize. And so on and so forth. A reversed lens renders the focus ring inoperable, so there's an added cost of a focusing slider to move the whole rig back and forth to focus. You can get by by adjusting one tripod leg slightly but it's terribly inconvenient. Metering is done stop-down, another inconvenience if light is dim.

 

- extension rings moves the lens farther from the film allowing macro capabilities. Magnification ratio = Length of Extension / Focal length. A PN-11 ring (52mm thick) on a 50mm prime will get you lifesize. A PN-11 ring on a 105/2.8 manual focus micro (can achieve 1:2) will get you lifesize. The PN-11 has a tripod collar.

 

- if you have the money, get a Nikon AF-micro. The 60, 105 and 200 prime AF micro lenses will provide 1:1 by themselves. The 70-180 zoom AF micro can't achieve 1:1 without the aid of 6T diopter. I use the 105 AF-micro extensively.

 

Then there are bellows. Indoors they're fine by themselves, but they're too bulky and unwieldy for any practical field work.

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Yaron,

 

An old Nikon rangefinder for macro work? You MUST be kidding...

 

However unpractical it is possible, youll need a reflex housing first.

 

http://www.pacificrimcamera.com/nhs/rh2/rh2.htm

 

THEN, buy the 55/3.5 micro-nikkor with diaphragm-collar.

 

http://www.cameraquest.com/nrf50mic.htm

 

AND youll need a bellow, probably youll have to get something custom fitted to nikon/contax mount, but hey ... lets be REAL about it ... if your actually going to use collector items, i will be the first to cheer ;)

 

Greetings,

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I would add to Ed's comment one thing. Lightning is also very important. If you want to go beyond 1:1 you will surely need some artificial light. Two (or more) flashes will do the work. I use two sb-28s and they do a great job with both of my cameras. Of course you could buy in a dedicated macro flash, but in my opinion a two-flash-setup is far more flexible giving me more freedom.
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Yaron,

 

OK, seriously, maybe your just better off with a fuji digital camera, however this is a Nikon forum. A canon to nikon adapter would be the cheapest way to use the canon macro lenses you allready have on your finepix, to get started offcourse.

 

Greetings,

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Finepix S2 Pro or any of the electronically coupled only cameras from Nikon are a poor choice for macro (S1 S2 D100 F80). The reason is that you lose meter coupling if you don't have a CPU-coupled lens mounted.

 

Bellows, Extension Tubes, Some Teleconverters, Reversing Ring - lose coupling. Getting the picture?

 

The best way to go in your case is to get a Micro-Nikkor AF lens. They make them in 60, 105 and 200mm focal lengths. Your choice will depend on application and budget. I'd suggest you do a search in the forum archives.

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Gotta agree with the Kenko tube suggestion. The full kit includes a 12 mm, 24 mm, and 36 mm tube. Stack 'em and you get 72 mm of extension. Put THAT on a 50 mm prime lens (Nikon's new 50 mm f1.8 AF-D lens is a cheap option) and then you get beyond 1:1. I tried this on Friday and I'll post anything good that comes out of it.

 

One caveat: The Kenko tubes work fine on my F80s, but they may do odd things with an S2-Pro. One thing you will lose is Autofocus--it will be active, but the image will be too dim for the sensors to function. Besides, if you focus manually you can make adjustments when your DOF-Preview is active (remember to stop down to check DOF!)

 

If you're on a tight budget, this would be a very good solution. If you can afford more, I'd suggest trying the dedicated macro lenses because they will be more versatile and more convenient.

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To all of you-- thanks.. I'll try to elaborate on what I have and what I am looking for:

 

I'm more inclined to getting a dedicated macro lens, and maybe using tubes to go beyon 1:1; which are compatible with the 60? 105? would the 60mm do? (with the focal multiplier, it would effectively a 90mm lens). The 200mm is financially out of reach, and it would also translate to 300mm on the S2; The 105 seems like a perfect matched, what about other brands? what about the manual focus version?

 

Henk:

The Fuji S2 pro is a Digital SLR; it is compatible with Nikon's F-mount, but as Mike noted, it's based on the N80/F80, hence failes to meter with bellows, etc.

 

Dan:

Do you know more of this incompatibility issue? do Nikon tubes do the same?

 

Flash:

Does anyone have experience with ring flashes?

 

Cheers,

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Yaron,

 

I know, BUT the S2 is also an old Nikon rangefinder, did you know that?. I just thought it was funny, i do make a mistake from time to time, sry.

 

As for manual focus in macro photography: If you go beyond 1:1 youll definately need to focus manually to get the right focus. Unless you plan to stop down to f22 your DOF wil be very small. I dont know the Fuji S2 personally, but i doubt it can accurately autofocus with tubes etc. Extension tubes are designed for film cameras, as you know lens properties change when using them on digital cameras. The best thing you can do is to take the body to a camerastore and check several lens options. When you plan to use tubes/bellows, check the stop-down metering availability on your camera.

 

A ringflash is a great idea when you plan to work outside alot, you can use the ringflash for front illumination and handhold an other flash for top/side illumunation. In a studio setup i dont think it would be a very big advantage.

 

Greetings,

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