tobias_mennle Posted October 18, 2002 Share Posted October 18, 2002 Can the FM3A focussing screens be used in FE2s/FM2s without correction of exposure (I think that was a problem when using FM2n screens in FE2s), has anyone tried? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin carron Posted October 18, 2002 Share Posted October 18, 2002 Tobias, I have not tried the new brighter screens in my FM2n or FE2 but according to this thread they will work ok without compensation. http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0020gP The question of which screen works in which camera is a bit of a tricky one but my understanding goes like this : FE and FM2 use K,B, and E types. They can use K2, B2 and E2 with compensation. This is given as 1/3rd stop via the ASA dial. ie for 100asa film select 80 asa FE2,FA and FM2n use K2,B2 and E2 types (notched tab for identification). FM3A uses the new brighter K3,B3 and E3 types which can also be used in the FM2n , FE2 and FA without compensation. That is my understanding of the situation ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_fang Posted October 19, 2002 Share Posted October 19, 2002 I currently have FM3A K3 screens installed in all 5 of my FM2Ns. They work fine, and testing with a grey card on Sunny-16 in the bright California midday sun shows no change in meter reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin carron Posted October 19, 2002 Share Posted October 19, 2002 All five ! You think the improvement is worthwhile then I would guess? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cd thacker Posted October 20, 2002 Share Posted October 20, 2002 My only concern would be, if the (x)2 screens require a 1/3 stop adjustment over the less bright (x) screens, then why wouldn't the (brighter still) (x)3 screens? If (x)2 screens are brighter than (x) screens on average by 1/3 stop, then it seems reasonable to assume that (x)3 screens are brighter than (x)2 by the same magnitude.<P> 1/3 of a stop - or even 2/3 - might not be noticed with print film, except possibly in side-by-side comparison. And even then you'd have to know that all other factors were equal; while in fact most labs can and will compensate, so that both prints look alike. I think that the only way to know for sure is to, A) call Nikon (nah, too easy); or, B) do a side by side shoot on slide film - same film, same subject, same lens and body - using the various screens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cd thacker Posted October 20, 2002 Share Posted October 20, 2002 <I>call Nikon (nah, too easy)</I><P> Come to think of it, though, having called Nikon USA recently, this may be the more difficult option, after all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_fang Posted October 20, 2002 Share Posted October 20, 2002 Oh yeah, it's worth it all right. Tried one and then bought 4 more. It's not just the increase in brightness but also the lack of graininess in the matte area. With the stock K2 screen, the slower the lens, the worse the grain was. With the K3 screen, there's barely any difference between my 28/2.8 and 35/2, and no difference at all between 35/2 and 50/1.4, crystal clear. Things also appear sharper with the K3, so I find it not only easier to see but also far easier to focus. Highly recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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