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SB-22s exposure compensation


torquil

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If you are adventure-some, take a section of nylon stocking and cover the flash tube. You may have to find a neutral color -- the reduction in flash (or a softened effect) will be varying. You may consider a test roll or two, keep notes, and find out if this will work for you....

 

Life is easier with a SB-28 and the F100, but that's been said already.

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It can be done quite easily. Set your exposure mode on manual. Make adjustments according to the meter. Use your exposure compensation dial to dial in the amount of fill flash you want. - 1.7 or so. When you take your picture, the flash metering will correspond to the exposure compensation you have set. it is awkward because you may have to reset it everytime you re-meter a subject but it will work.
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Thanks to all.

How about using the custom function that lets you chose

whether the flash and exposure are shifted (or just flash) or

does this only work if you're using auto bracketing??

 

Im sure this has been asked and answered before, but hey im

new ...

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Nothing wrong with being new, torquil - we're glad you're here and asking. And if we couldn't ask questions that had already been answered in some form, sometime, in some forum somewhere . . . well, then all these forums would be pretty sparse indeed. Sometimes, one or more of us of us just has a grumpy episode, that's all. Now, hopefully, someone here can answer the rest of your question. (I don't use flash, though, so it won't be me.)
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It keeps being asked because I haven't answered yet. Set the camera to aperture priority or manual, maybe shutter priority, don't know about Program. Set the SB22s to one of the four "A" (auto) settings. The fstops on the left will light up. Choose one to match your lens aperture for the equivalent of an uncompensated flash exposure. Close the lens aperture for minus (reduced flash) compensation, or open for plus (increased) flash compensation. How does the SB22s work in auto compared to TTL? It's a Nikon, isn't it? In the included example, the Camera was a N60, the flash SB22s, bounced off an 8ft white ceiling. One was TTL, the other uncompensated auto. I don't recall which was which. Don't give TTL flash credit for working miracles. It's basically just another sensor location. Shoot a few rolls of film, and you will be ready to upgrade to an FM2. :-)<div>003qox-9752484.JPG.98befcb75ac8abec73b1f21cd3aab97d.JPG</div>
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Ok guys, I admit I was in a grumpy mood yesterday. I didn't look to see that Torquil was new until after I posted and I apologized to him off board. Seems he did indeed do a search but of course this info would not turn up since all were posted to the unarchived forum just like this one...
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Hi torquil,

 

I had the same questions you had a few weeks ago. Eventually I caved in and purchased an Sb-80dx. Not because you can't find a way to do exposure compensation with the Sb-22s/F100 combination, but only because I prefer using up my brain cells doing something more useful than flash calculations. (Note, by the way, that the cheap N80 has a flash exposure compensation dial that works perfectly with the Sb-22s.)

 

Here are a couple of things to keep in mind:

 

(1) putting the camera in Manual mode, as was suggested above, puts your flash in Standard TTL mode rather than super duper TTL mode. Not necessarily a bad thing, but something to be aware of.

 

(2) I've heard conflicting views on whether the exposure compensation dial on the F100 even has any effect on the flash exposure. Only way to be sure is to try it yourself. If you do try it, please let me know.

 

(3) Your idea about using the custom function is a great one, but, as you suspected, it only works with bracketing.

 

(4) If you're a real SB-22s diehard (which, as I said, I turned out not to be) you can read how Thom Hogan uses the ISO settings to accomplish flash exposure compensation on www.bythom.com.

 

Good luck!

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