Lens cap solution

Good points on buying a $1200+ lens and getting a 5 cent lens cap with it. Why not just get a snap on lens cap, like the ones 35mm lenses come with, and call it good? Also, it helps to wrap the lenese well so that there's less chance of any pressure on the front building up to the damage point.

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Much to do about nothing .... ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

Snap-on caps are not made in all of the sizes used by modern

LF lenses.

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Tiffen makes them from 46 to 72mm only (and screw-in metal

from 46 to 77mm).

Samigon offers snap-on in 46 to 77mm.

Tamaron has a 112mm snap on

Pentax has an 82mm

Heliopan makes them from 43 to 77mm

Kaiser from 46 to 77mm

B+W from 46 to 77mm

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Rodenstock has lenses with filter sizes from 40.5 to 112mm.

Add a Center Filter and Rodestock requires sizes up to 127mm.

Then there are also lenses like the Imagon which have no

threads.

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Another problem is snap caps seem to have a propensity of

falling off lenses easier then push-on or some bayonet caps do.

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If someone wants to have a hard cap that will not accidently fall

off they probably need screw-in ones for LF lenses. But they are

not available either in the range of sizes needed just for

Rodenstock.

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Easy to suggest a snap cap but it isn't totally the answer.

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Perhaps you might want to go into business making custom

screw-in hard caps (that will not contact glass with large front

curves) for the people out there that feel that they must have one.

This seems to be the fourth thread on this topic. I posted a bit about my solutions in the original thread at:

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http://hv.greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=006hFm

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I actually use a number of methods for replacing flimsy factory supplied caps on my Rodenstock and Schneider lenses.

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As Bob mentions, snap caps do not come in all sizes for all lenses - especially rear elements. But, when one is available, it is often the best and the least expensive option (of course, the BEST solution would be for the manufacturers to supply decent caps in the first place). It has been my experience that good quality snap-caps are actually LESS likely to fall off than slip-on caps. I have found the Nikon snap caps to work exceptionally well. They are readily available and inexpensive. Most camera stores that sell Nikon 35mm cameras and lenses will have replacements lenses in stock in a variety of sizes. I haven't personally used them, but I have friends who use the Pentax and Tamron snap caps and they seem to be of comparable quality to the Nikon snap caps. For all my lenses with front filter sizes smaller than 52mm, I buy a a step-up ring from the lens thread size to 52mm. This allows me to use standard 52mm screw-in glass filters on these lenses. I leave these step-up rings mounted on the lenses during transport. It saves eime when a filter is required (no fumbling inteh pack for the right ste-up ring) and allows me to use the Nikon 52mm snap caps to protect the front elements on these lenses.

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Another solution is replacement slip-on caps from Nikkor or Fujinon LF lenses. While such replacements are not available for some Schneider and Rodenstock lenses, between Nikon and Fuji, a fit can be found for the majority of the German lenses.

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Custom made caps by Steve Grimes. As others have mentioned, these caps are the most rigid slip-on plastic caps available. Steve will custom make them to fit any lens - front or back. They are not cheap, but a lot cheaper than repairing a damaged lens.

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Screw-in metal caps. This is what I am currently using on my 75mm f6.8 Grandagon-N. It is slower to install and remove than a snap cap or slip-on cap, but it is a rigid metal cap that truly protects the front element of this lens (MUCH better than the supplied original cap).

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Filters. The only lens I've ever done this with was a 150mm Super Symmar HM - unfortunately after the initial damage to the front element.

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Spacer. This is what I use on my 110mm Super Symmar XL. As anyone who owns this lens knows, there are some problems with some standard 67mm filters on this lens (Tiffen in particular). When I first got this lens, I removed the glass from an old 67mm Hoya UV filter and just leave the empty aluminum filter ring on the lens at all times. It is threaded in the front to accept standard 67mm filters (now my Tiffen filters work fine with this lens). Plus, it provides a little extra space that prevents the factory supplied from contacting the front element during transport. Just a note, I am only using this lens on 4x5 these days, so I have not encountered mechanical vignetting when using filters with this lens. If you are using this lens with larger formats you would be better off using wide angle filters to avoid any possible vignetting.

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It does seem ridiculous that these expensive German lenses come with such poorly made caps. Of course, it is equally ridiculous to not replace these caps with somethng more substantial. Others will hide their heads in the sand and claim that there isn't a problem. Personally, I have owned three lenses over the years with cap inflicted damage (two Rodenstock and one Schneider) and since there are several people posting in four separate threads, I am obviously not the only one who sees this as a problem. Obviosuly, the best solution would be better factory supplied caps. Schneider may be getting the message (check out the machined aluminum cap on their new 210mm Super Symmar XL). In the mean time, the first thing I do with any new lens, even before mounting it on a lens board, is to check the caps. If there is any possibility that they can contact the glass when carried in the field, I replace them with one of the solutions listed above. Rather than deny the existance of a problem, I think we would all be better served to discuss possible solutions.

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Kerry

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P.S. Just so Bob doesn't think I am singling out Rodenstock or being unfair, please note that I have also had problems with some Schneider lens caps (see above). Also, not all Rodenstock caps are bad. For example, the front and rear caps on my 150mm APO Sironar-S are great. They have a more cupped shape that provides additional space between the cap and the lens elements. This cupped shape seems to also add rigidity to the cap. With my 135mm APO Sironar-S, the front cap was great (like the 150), but the rear cap was awful - contacted the element the very first time I carried it in my pack. The worst caps I have ever seen regardless of brand were the ones that came with my 75mm f6.8 Grandagon-N. That lens never left the house until I replaced the factory caps. Again, not trying to pick on Rodenstock. Just supplying a few data points, both good and bad, WRT some of their current caps.

And while we're on the subject ... leaf shutter accuracy is also a

sham. Shooting velvia, 1/3 stop off can make or break an image, yet

with the "accuracy" of most leaf shutters, especially ones a few

years old, bracketing is almost essential - either that or take the

time to look up the tested speed for each time and lens, and possible

miss the shot in quickly changing light.

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I can live with this, yet I find it really sad how little thought is

put into LF gear (with some exceptions) compared to 35mm gear. Huge

amounts of R&D spent on gear that is only used to take Joe Sixpack's

vacation pixs or rinky dink reportage that get's tossed along with

yeaterday's news. If 1/10 of a perect of the effort that goes into

designing 35mm gear was poured into LF, we'd really be somewhere,

instead of stuck back in the Matthew Brady era for the most part.

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Ah but I forget supply and demand, the those market forces that keep

us plunging downward into one-size fits all mediocrity of our

disposable product society .... resistance is futile!

"leaf shutter accuracy"

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Who says it can't be.

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Rollei Linear Motor shutters for view cameras are deadly

accurate. So are Horseman ISS shutters.

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But you can buy several Copal shutters for the price of one of

these shutters.

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Then you need a very expensive control box to operate it.

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Then you have the Sinar Expolux system.

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If you want to pay the tariff the shutter systems are availibal. You

add signicant cost, weight, size, need battery power, etc. so the

average user has no wish to use them.

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In maechanical shutters you can also get better control with a

Prontor Professional shutter. Again more cost and size. But the

increased accuracy is not as great a gain as the other benefits,

1/3rd stop apertures, rear setting of all controls, rear operation of

the shutter.

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But more cost, weight, etc.

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Copal shutters are the starting point.

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If you want to pay more there are several other options. Most are

special order.

Leica has solved the problem about people complaining about cheap

lens caps. On their Trinovid Binoculars, they don't give you any at

all for the front.

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Neal

I think Mr. Solomon has a point. You can get all the accuracy and

computer precision, if you are willing to pay for it. Joe sixpack's

party snaps represent a significantly larger percentage of dollars

spent on photography than the few large format amateurs and

professionals. If I were in business would I spend R&D dollars to

chase the big dollar mass market or the esoteric niche? As for the

lens caps, it sort of seems like some one willing to spend a thousand

dollars on a large format lens ought to be able to spend what is

necessary to protect that investment. If you would rather whine about

the big bad lens manufacturer's being skimpy with the free and

included lens caps maybe you really have run out of things to

complain about.

Careful Dave, you'll give them ideas. Stores have removed camera

straps, batteries, "never-ready" cases, etc... in the past and

charged the customer extra for them. The last thing we need is for

them to start removing lenscaps. "Free lenscaps"! You aren't a

relative of "Honest Abe's" are you? :>)

Dave,

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It's not a question of whether or not one can afford to pay for a better lens

cap or not, even after being, "willing to spend a thousand dollars on a large

format lens".

With the RIDICULOUSLY high prices one has to pay for these quality lenses,

surely the manufactuer should provide a decent lens cap to protect the lens -

I'm sure you expect the seatbelt in your car to be of the highest quality to

protect you, after spending thousands of dollars on for your car.

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The point is, these manufacturers shouldn't be alienating their customers by

including cheap & nasty lenscaps and expecting them to buy their own better

quality caps.

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Kind regards

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Peter Brown

After reading this for two days, I've come to agreement with

the "much ado about nothing" comment. I've used Schneider lenscaps

when a used lens of another manufacturer came with none. I find

them fine. I do protect my lenses in other ways also: either in

padded pockets in my usual bag or in lenswraps if I'm using another

carrying vehicle. I'd say there's a lot more to protect on a lens

than just the front and rear elements and I don't think a lens cap

should be expected to shoulder the load alone.

Jay,

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In the original thread on this topic (referenced in my earlier post), I wrote:

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"They are carried in indiviual, soft-sided padded cells or wraps, and then placed in a set of padded dividers in my pack."

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So, I do take precautions beyond the lens caps to protect my lenses (and certainly recommend others do the same). Even so, if the lens cap is thin enough and of poor design, it can still contact the glass surfaces of the lens when carried in this manner in a pack.

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It's great that you (and others) have not experienced this problem. It only takes once to ruin your day. I responded to this thread to offer solutions to others who have had, or are worried about, this so-called non-problem. Sure, I'd like to see better "free" lens caps included when I buy a $1000 lens, but until they are I will take additional measures (replacing cheap flimsy caps) and was just offering a few alternatives that have worked well for me.

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This free advice comes with a "limited liftime warranty". It will always be worth at least as much as you paid for it. If not, I will refund your puchase price in full, or repair or replace this advice at my discretion.

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Kerry

Has no-one else prowled around the grocery store, lens in hand and

gone the youghurt pot top/Pringles chip tube lid route - has worked

for me on many occasions...

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A pringles lid fits my Baush & lomb 11 13/16" 4.5 lens perfectly,

front and back (as well as a spare for my Nikon 85mm 1.8 35mm lens

with the hood on!)

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Tim A

It's not always been that silly. In the "good old days",

Rodenstock/Klimsch already made

<i> the perfect lens cap</i>.

In lack of a digital camera, I put it on my scanner to give you an

impression of

the former quality attitude:</p>

<p><img border="0" src="http://www.2pics.de/2pics/images/lc1.jpg"

width="200" height="200">

<img border="0" src="http://www.2pics.de/2pics/images/lc2.jpg"

width="200" height="200"></p>

<p>It was made of strong leather and upholstered with velvet. The

logo was

embossed into the leather.

Regards,

Ooooooo! I like it! I'm drooling!

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That gets me thinking....

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Maybe I'll take a Pringles plastic cap, paint it black and line it

with some nice velvet (blue, purple, red or green)

The old caps on my Kodak 10" Wide-Field Ektar are metal slip-on caps

with flocking inside--very durable.

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The original metal screw-in caps I have on the Nikkor lenses for my

classic Bronica are also excellent.

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The threaded lens cap made for the very exposed front element of my

Canon FD 7.5mm/f:5.6 circular fisheye--probably the finest lenscap I

own. Sturdy metal, knurled outside, with a raised center, and a

rubber ring around the inside rim.

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Given that it doesn't have to be a precision-machined thing, is it too

much to ask for a metal lens cap for a high-end lens?

Anyone want to buy real leather lenscaps lined with Velvet? Hand made

in Mexico, with a picture of Elvis painted on the Velvet... by real

artists! Priceless protection & an art keepsake. For only $19.95 more

comes with its own frame, certificate & written Guarantee.

Velvet Elvis caps!! You might be onto something, Dan!

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-- Matt

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P.S. -- I wonder how difficult it would be to add the word

"Rodenstock" in sequins?

Maybe the 10 cent solution is to cut and fit a small piece of fleece

or velvet (or other lens friendly cloth) to snugly fit inside the

front and rear lens rings so that the caps don't touch the lens

surfaces directly.