What would I need for large format Macro Photography

I've been taking macro photos of flowers w/35m with a bellows at very close distances (1"-1/4"). I've been considering using a 4x5 camera to allow for larger prints. What equipment would I need. What considerations should I make? The cheaper the better.

Michael, I'm no expert on this, but for starters, you might consider

a true macro LF lens, which would be optically optimized for close-

focusing. I do some close-up work with the lenses I have (non-macro),

so perhaps the difference in image size will negate having to

purchase a true macro lens. Also, you'll want some kind of tool to

calculate exposure for various bellows draw/focal length combos, like

the Quick Stick, made by Toyo (?). It's quicker than doing

calculations in your head.

Michael: The great thing about LF for closeups is that you can use

any lens that will fit in the lensboard hole and which will focus

with the bellows available. Many LF shooters use enlarging lenses as

closeup lenses (sometimes reversed in the mount). You might try

lenses as short as 50mm. You will have to calculate the f-stop when

you get really close...it may be several stops more light is needed.

Some manufacturers make lenses especially computed for closeup work.

You can also use extended lensboards to allow you to focus closer.

Depending upon the bellows length on your camera, you should be able

to to get quite close with short lenses. With a bellows camera, when

you get close, use the front focus knob for size and focus with the

rear. A little movement of the camera position from front to back is

helpful. It takes a lot longer to write about it than to do it once

you are accustomed to the setup.

 

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Regards,

I would not think a 50mm lens would be very useful. Your working

distance is going to be very small making lighting more difficult. I

use a 150mm lens for most close up work providing a good compromise

between working distance and bellows extension. Are you planning on

going to higher magnification than 1:1? You don't say what camera you

have, will it allow bellows extension to 300mm or greater? As for

lenses I have found the G-Claron to be excellent for these

applications, less expensive and more versatile than a dedicated

macro lens.

Well, if you want cheap, cheap is readily available. Look into

Tominon macro lenses as made for the Polaroid MP4 and MP4+ systems.

These lenses are supplied in barrel mount, to screw into Copal #1

Press shutters (any modern #1 will do).

 

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Focal lengths are 17 mm, 35 mm, 50 mm, 75 mm, 105 mm, and 135 mm. All

will cover 4x5 at reasonable magnifications. These lenses are not as

good as, e.g., Zeiss Luminars, but they cost a lot less. Not great

wide open, although at 34x my 17mm resolves better than 100 lpmm in

the subject (gives a good image of a 100 div/mm stage micrometer) wide

open, but they improve with stopping down.

 

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Assuming your camera has ~ 300 mm of bellows, the 50 mm will get you

5x with a working distance (roughly diaphragm to subject) of 2", the

75 will get 3x and around 3", and the 105 will get 2x and around 4".

 

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The big advantage of going up in format for close-up shots of flowers

is keeping detail in the bloom and getting more of the surroundings.

 

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If you're patient and watch eBay for a while, you should be off and

running for around $50-60 for the first lens and a shutter. Plus, of

course, another lens board and drilling.

 

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Go do it and don't look back.

 

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Cheers,

 

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Dan

A cheap ruler (rather than quick stick) with inches scale can be used

to quickly determine how much bellows extension factor you need to

add to get the correct exposure. Those calculators mentioned above

are nice I suppose, but not necessary.

 

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Example: say the normal lens to film plane distance when the

particular lens you are using is focused at infinity is 4 inches (as

would be the case with a 100mm lens), and then you focus on close

subject and the bellows has stretched that distance out to 8 inches.

To figure the bellows extension factor, convert the numerical values

of the inches to f-stops: ie, go from f4 to f5.6 and then to f8 is 2

stops. Voila!

 

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So now, open your lens up two stops (or increase your exposue time by

two stops).

 

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This is a simple example, but even intermediary inches, ie 6 inch

lens, can be eyed-balled and stated as an f stop. One stop away

would occur with a bellows at appx. 8.7 inches of extension, and so

on.

There is one problem using enlarging lenses. Minimum aperture is

often f16 or f22 which is usually not enough at larger

magnifications. For macro work I rather use ordinary LF lenses

mounted reverse if magnification is larger than 1:1.

Regards,

www.janez-pelko.com