Degrees of movements

Hello,

I am interested in a LF 4x5. How essential are the degrees of movement in a LF camera? Are most of the movements redundant? I do lots of tabletop w/35mm and 6x7. (For example: some mfrs offer +/- 30: of base tilt while others offer +/-60: and of course the same w/swing movements.) Any help on this is appreciated!

Regards...BRN

What do you mean by 'degrees of movement'?

If you mean, do you need a calibrated scale showing how much movement

you are applying, the answer is no.

If you want to know whether you need to have movements, the answer is

a resounding yes and is one of the main benefits of LF.

Without movements your LF camera would just provide a larger,and

therefore better quality image than your 35mm.

Movements (swings to the side and tilts to the top & bottom)allow you

to change the plane of sharp focus - effectively to extend depth of

field to a tremendous level, and shifts (sideways or up or down)

allow you to cut out unwanted foreground at the bottom, top or sides

of the picture. For example, if you were to take a picture of a tall

building you would keep the camera back straight to ensure that the

verticals are straight in the shot and that the building did not seem

to be tilting backwards, and shift the front up (or the back down) to

cut out foreground at the base. Same with still life, but 'tother way

about. You would point the camera down at the subject, then

straighten the back, then shift the front down (or the back up) to

position the image correctly. Result: You would show the top as well

as the front of your subject whilst retaining correct perspective.

You could also use swings or tilts to 'increase' depth of field.

Hope this helps, but for far more detailed info suggest you look up

Harold Merklinger, who is brilliant.

I'm just starting out in view cameras myself most of my time has been

in traditional medium format, so you can take my advice for what it's

worth. Serious table top product shots, along with certain types of

architectural photography can demand extensive movements. While most

landscape work may only require minor movements to achieve the

desired effect. I would think that if you confine your selection to

quality monorail type cameras verses a field camera you should be

fine. Arca-Swiss offers both the F-line and the Monolith series of

cameras, the latter being more of a dedicated studio camera with

greater movements. I personally chose the 6x9 F-Line Metric for

greater flexibility, and roll film convenience. If your currently

using 35mm and 6x7 format cameras, I would suggest a serious look

into the 6x9 Arca�s. I hope this helps.

<p>

Bob P.

He means how much is needed. Table top does demand more than

landscape. Most cameras have far more movement than the lens can

handle anyway. Even folding cameras can overdo the movements. The

most versatile camera for any table top work is a standard rail view

camera. You will have to have a good lens to ever get to the limits

of what the movements are. The extra bellow extension is great when

focusing close, too. Most of the number hype is just to make one

camera look better on paper than another. The best idea is to look at

them in person. I have an old Orbit View, circa 1950s, that can match

anything modern for movements. The Omega View series are great

cameras and among the cheapest in the used market.

Yes, I understand the question better now. Considerable movement is

needed for close-up work. I do this all the time and find that the

lenses normally used for this type of work, e.g. 210mm + have plenty

of coverage to allow for front standard movements. In any event,

working at close distances the image circle tends to be very large.

The answer really is to try a lens of your choice. Don't rely on what

you can see on the ground glass, use a polaroid at the very least, or

better still use a sheet of film, because Polaroids don't cover the

whole area.

Bernard:

I find that I use the movements quite extensively for table top work.

The movement I use the least is swing. Once you have used a view

camera you find it quite difficult to go back to using small or

medium format cameras for this kind of work.

<p>

The main reasons are the ability to fine tune your composition with

exacting precision and view the scene with both eyes on the ground

glass. May I suggest examining a copy of Steve Simmons or Kodak's

book on large format to see the effect of various movements. Better

yet try to get hold of a camera for a few days and play with it.

<p>

Monorail cameras from Arca-Swiss and Sinar will make your life

pleasant for this kind of work although many great still life photos

have been made with field cameras. A 180mm or 210mm lens would be a

good starting point for the 4x5 format.

boy are you going to have fun.. not to scare you but some tips..

your going to get into bellows darken ing problems with short

distance shots.. not a problem. use a good flash meter, bellows

tables, and pay attentions to films capabilities, and use a polaroid

405 for focus and lighting verification.. polaroid has differing

speeds than slow type magazine films so your meter should change with

a click to new film speed. i have a gosson.. sorry i dont know the

terms better.. just a little tilt is all that is needed to bring all

focus in, but some angles of subjects wont work this way. a not

tilting back is not a problem, you tilt the camera, and then tilt the

front lens to tilt the back

aroll back on a4x5 will get you into cheaper dust free film.

ready loads realy do the trick, but costs are high.. small f

stops and lots of correct temp light are important for depth of

field focus in this type work.. my gossen only reads flash to f16

and would best if i could go to f 32 or f45 if you can get a flash

meter to do it.. or with a really tough subject the 405 polaroid will

do it.. get lots of flashes and those syncro sensors to set them

off.. a good meter will read your background light intensity,

subject intensity, right side flash intensity, left side flash

intensity, and back ground light intensity with several readings..

you probably already know this with your experience..

like i said you are going to have fun.. good luck.. ffffg