The longer focal length lens didn't allow me to get closer !

I'm quite confused. I have a 14" Red Dot Artar in a barrel and recently purchased a 19" Red Dot Artar in a barrel. I have a Calumet C-1/C-3 that I thought had a 30" bellows draw, but the camera only allowed the bellows to draw at 22-23".

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Anyway, when using the 14" lens, I wasn't able to get as close to my subject (I do still life photography), so I purchased the 19" thinking that I could get in closer. But I noticed that I can't get any closer to my subjects and focus well. Why? Am I totally confused about lens optics? I thought the longer lens would allow me to get closer. I'm disappointed.

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Any suggestions? Do I have to go to a 500 - 600mm lens?

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Thanks for any help.

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Ron

One of the peculiar things about close up work with a view camera is

that the image magnification keeps changing as you attempt to focus.

What can make it easier is to move the whole camera toward or away from

the subject. Fortunately, you can do this to a degree with the C1/C3.

By loosening the two knobs that clamp the camera to the base, you can

slide the whole mess back & forth. Just make certain the base is

screwed tight to the tripod head and that your head is up to the task

of supporting an unbalanced load. My Majestic 1400 works real well in

this regard. As to your bellows length problem, I'm puzzeled. I have

a 19" Apo Artar on my C1 and have easily done 1/2 life size with it. As

far as closeup work with short lenses goes, I just did some 1/2 life

size with a 203 f7.7 Ektar and had no problem at all. I could have

gotten even closer with ease. Try moving the whole camera and see if

that helps. And let us know how you make out.

Ron,

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You seem to be saying the draw is restricted by the camera rather

than the bellows? I don't mean to ask an insulting question, but you

are aware that the rear rail, the one that folds up, has an inner

extension, right?

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There should be three sets of knobs back aft, one for the rear frame

or standard, one for the tripod block, and one for the inner

extension. When run out all the way backwards, you should have 34"

of draw, measured from the center of the g.g. to the edge of the

lensboard opening.

At 1:1 (lifesize) the bellows extension is twice the focal length of

the lens. This means that the image circle diameter is doubled as

well,(and the aperture number is doubled too! ie. f/11 becomes

f/22).<br>A 150mm LF lens will easily cover 10" x 8" at lifesize or

greater, and needs only a 12" bellows draw.<br>You can work out the

coverage from the rule-of-thumb formula; D = F *(m+1). Where D is the

diameter of the image circle, F is the focal length of the lens, and m

is the magnification (0.5 for half lifesize, say).<br>Why not get a

300mm Symmar or similar 'standard' lens for 10 x 8? This gets you to

about 3/4 lifesize, and has bags of coverage for camera movements.

Simply put, to get closer when your camera or bellows limits you, you

need a SHORTER length lens, not a longer one.

Hi Ron, like Sean said, you seem to state you have bellows, but the

camera won't let you extend them? Did you loosen the two black star

knobs and extend the upper rail track all the way back? Best, David

Ron,

Everything has been said only just one more word, given the same

bellows length, shorter focals give bigger reproduction ratio, When

using long lenses you might not be able to get close and focus

Good luck