Tri-X

This seems to the favourite film of many, so what is <i>your</i> favoured EI and developer combination, and why?<p>

Particular and/or comparative comments on PMK Pyro, or other pyro-based developers, DiXactol, Rodinal (1:25?), D-76 1:1 are particularly welcome.<p>

Or, if you prefer HP5+, why, and what is your preferred EI and developer for this film?<p>

Do most of you stick to one EI, or do you vary it depending on the different effective film speed that will arise on N, N+, or N- development?

I use Plus-X in 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10 with D-76 1:1 almost exclusively.

Why? Because I know it and understand it. For normal development I

develop four to six 8x10s for 8-9 minutes at 80F degrees, N+1 for 10-

12 minutes, etc. Times vary according to the number of sheets being

developed, and of course the number of sheets being developed at one

time varies depending on format. I use open trays using 1.5 to 2

liter (for 8x10s in 11x14 trays) one-shot batches. I find that these

times are great for my old gear but are on the plus side when I

develop 4x5s shot with modern lenses. Sorry for the run-on.

I use HP-5+ instead of Tri-x for two reasons: 1) It does not have the

long toe of Tri-x. 2) It is cheaper.

<p>

I develop it in a Jobo, with D-23 1:1. My normal EI is 200 with my

Sekonic L-508 and EI 400 with my Pentax spotmeter V. (This goes to

show you how much meters can vary, and how using someone else's EI is

almost useless. Both meters are nearly new, and agree with other

meters of the same brand and model.) I vary my EI from EI 80-230

(based on the Sekonic's reading) to achieve N-4 through N+2.

HP5 developed in Ilfospeed diluted 1-100 for 12 to 18 mins depending

on speed used is my favorite - why:

1. It is dirt cheap

2. I like the apperance of Hp5 grain structure when I rate at 1600

and crop in tight on the scan - until mid September when I go to the

college of building and printing in Glasgow where I'll get access to

some decent enlargers

3. Did I mention it was cheap

4. I recently found an article I was looking for in an MPP users

newsletter/gazette which gave me the correct times, and refered the

formula from a Practica/35mm users magazine

I have used Tri-X for more years than I like to admit to. It is a

fnie film. I use HC-110 for developing, solution B. I have also used

D-76 and T-Max RS. My favorite is HC-110. I like the edge effect. I

rate the 320 ASA/ISO film at 160 and develop for 5 1/2 minutes for

standard processing. Recently I have been using a lot of Ilford HP-5

rated at 320 and developed in ID-11. I really like that combination.

Excellent sharpness and contrast. Ilford is a bit cheaper and just as

good as Tri-X. I have made some beautiful images with the Ilford this

summer. It has great response to filters. I am sure I will continue

to use both films.

Good shooting, Doug.

I have used Tri-X for ten years plus in a variety of lighting

conditions. It has a feel and look that IMHO Tmax 400 and 100 cannot

duplicate. I don't demean those films; my second favorite film is

Tmax 100, again for its feel.

Processing: I use Tmax RS A+B diluted 1:9 in a Jobo for 6 min N, or I

use FG-7, and I use dilution, not time, to achieve N-2 to N+2.

IMHO FG-7 is a developer that requires more attention than it gets.

Bob

I have used TriX almost exclusively for two years now. First

developed in HC110 (1:9; 160ASA; 6 min N; 8min N+1; tray 68F;

shuffling technique; 6/tray) but more recently in Hutching's PMK (frm

Formulary; 68F;tray; shuffling technique; 8min N; N+1 10min; rated at

320ASA using Minolta spotmeter-as noted by another contributor meters

make a big difference. Trix is gives super gradation, fabulous

edge/acutance with PMK.