"Best" developing method

I am looking for a day light tank to develop 5x4 sheet, but I don't know what is best for black and white. Can anyony provide me with details of what is the best tank or tube to go for?

Thanks for your help,

David Kirk.

I use the Jobo rotary processors with hand inversion. Jobo doesn't

recommend this because of the large volume of chemistry required, but

it works fine.

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I have used dilute developers (e.g., Xtol 1:3; HC-110 1:31 from

stock; PMK) or reuseable, replenished developer (TMax-RS). I use the

2 reel tank, but only load the bottom reel; 1.4 litre covers the

lower reel. I don't load the upper reel because I believe the

developer needs space to intermix when agitating. I put the upper

reel in the tank to hold the lower one down and haven't gotten around

to making a spacer to do this.

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See:

http://www.jobo-usa.com/jobofoto/products/2500.htm#Other 2500 Series

Pictures

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I don't like the other tanks I've seen because there isn't enough

room for the chemicals to move around. I haven't tried rotary

processing, but books and articles indicate this isn't a good

approach for B&W. There's BTZS tubes which I have not used but it

seems like a lot of fussing around, and uses continuous agitation.

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Best regards,

Charlie

I think the best way to develop sheet film is in a Jobo rotary

processor with an expert drum. The Jobo controls temperature and

agitation. The expert drums require a minimum of chemistry and give

even development without the risk of scratching.

I have use the Jobo and a few other

processors but still prefer the 4x5 racks and

my trust dip and dunk tanks. I get all the

control I need and they work great... not to

mention a whole lot cheaper than the lowest

price Jobo.

Scott

Unicolor print drums on the Uniroller work great for me.

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They're cheap and plentiful on the used-equipment market. Note that not just any print drum will work; it must have ribs on the inner wall so that solutions can get around to the base side of the film and clear antihalation coating etc.

I'd go along with the Jobo/full tank/hand inversion method. I had

problems trying to use a Jobo with rotary agitation for sheet film,

nearly always ending up with uneven development, "tide marks" and

foaming marks. The problem is that you have to pour the developer in

and seal the tank in the upright position before turning it on its

side to rotate it. All the time that the tank is upright the sheets of

film are only partially covered with solution. If the development time

is only 5 or 6 minutes then the 30 seconds or more that it takes to

pour in the developer, attach the cap and transfer the tank to the

roller is quite significant. Fully filling the tank and using

inversion agitation avoids the problem. The Jobo tanks are very

expensive, though, for what they are. Expect to pay at least #40 for

the smallest tank and the 2509 cut film reel. Ignore the instructions

about "needing" the special loader, it's a waste of time and money. If

you can load a stainless steel reel in the dark the Jobo sheet film

reel is no problem.

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I've also got a "Dallan" stainless steel deep tank that can take a

dozen sheets of 5x4 at a time. It has a sealable light-trapped pouring

spout, and <i>can</i> be used for inversion agitation in the light.

Again the pouring time can be a problem, and really it's more

practical to use it in the dark, using the dip'n'dunk method, with a

separate little tub of stop bath standing by while the developer's

changed for fixer.

You are not supposed to fill a Jobo expert tank in the upright

position. You have to fill the tank while it is turning. This is what

the Jobo lift is for. You won't get uneven development if you use the

drum according to Jobo's instructions.

I use and highly recommend the BTZS film tubes sold by Darkroom

Innovations (name recently changed to "The Veiw Camera Store" or

something like that). Compared to Jobo, they are inexpensive and take

up very little space. Also, you can do multiple development times in

a single run. If you'd like more detail, send me an e mail.

The daylight inversion HP CombiPlan T has long been a

preferred method of daylight processing and is used in many

teaching courses.

I've been running a very low-tech stainless can similar to Nikor

tanks for 35mm and roll films. It sits in a water bath at the

correct temperature as a hedge against the developer temperature

changing.

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This is pretty low-tech compared to all the goodies mentioned above,

but I do get consistent results with it. I'm thinking about trying

my Beseler 8x10 drum and motor base this weekend...

I started out using the dip and dunk method of developing sheet film.

I liked the results very much and still use it when I have a lot of

film of the same processing times to develope. But I really like the

rotory processing method for it's consistent results. My system is the

Unicolor drum and reversing motor base. It was inexpensive and I

recently purchased another base just in case one goes bad. I have the

8x10, 11x14, and 16x20 drums. I can use them for color print

processing too. I get 4 sheets in the 8x10 drum using a wooden stick

to keep the top 2 separated from the bottom 2 sheets. I like the

density separation with the rotory system better than the dip and dunk

method. And I don't get near any chemicals with the rotory method.

Once the film is loaded the lights come back on and everything is done

with ease. The chems are poured in fast and emptied quickly also. Very

nice system. Too bad Unicolor doesn't make the system anymore although

there seem to be plenty of them out there. Give it a try. james