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Grease for Large Format monorail Camera


ed_stander

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this question comes up pretty regularly. i have always a soft cloth

with WD-40 sprayed on it to clean and lightly lubricate each element,

and then just wiped it all down with a clean cloth. some folks

prefer dry silicon lubricants for metal-to-metal sliding parts.

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Thanks to all!

I've received a direct answer from Arca Swiss International, who

apparantly monitor this page. Their comment was to NOT use either

vaseline or WD-40, and are sending some grease my way to solve the

problem. I'm not sure why they don't like grease substitutes, but

there you go! Thanks again - Ed

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One of the problems with WD40 is that it becomes quite gummy after it

dries. It is more of a preservative than a lubricant, although it is

a good lubricant when you first apply it. Once dry, it leaves a gummy

film on stuff. Regardless of what you use, clean the rail and slides

before you relube.

 

<p>

 

Regards,

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Lubrication for sub-zero operation. Lubriplate makes a lithium grease

called Lubriplate "Aero". It is used for garage door openers, screw

drive type, for sub zero weather. Apply aparingly and wipe off

excess. It is wonderful stuff that wont harden up in sub zero weather.

It comes in a small toothpaste size tube. Richard Boulware - Denver.

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There was recently a long discussion about WD-40 in one of the

machinist forums and the conclusion was that it's not a good

lubricant and isn't terribly effective at preventing rust. It is good

for cleaning off gums and residues, and for some types of metal

cutting applications. If the right grease is on the way, great,

otherwise I'd tend to use a good white lithium grease like

Lubriplate, or a teflon filled grease. Stay away from automotive

greases except for some of the light wide temperature range

synthetics that don't harden and gum up.

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I also use white lithium grease - got a can from the auto parts

store. It's what I read to use in several sources on camera repair.

 

<p>

 

I understand that the "WD" in "WD-40" stands for "water dispersant."

On bicycles, it is often recommended to use WD-40 to clean off parts

BEFORE lubing or greasing - not as a lubricant itself. I don't

believe that it leaves much of a lubricant behind.

 

<p>

 

BTW, I struggled for some time to find a solvent that evaporates

quickly, doesn't leave residue, and doesn't damage paint and plastics

for use in cleaning old camera mecahnisms. Most of the stuff I read

in books are no longer available or require special handling and

disposal. A camera repairman finally recommended camp stove fuel.

Works great for me, but use at your own risk.

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" Linhof geared mechanisms from the Linhof Service

department, a light coating of Vaseline and you should be good

to go"

 

<p>

 

What are the rubbing surfaces made of?

 

<p>

 

Linhof monorails use brass on aluminum which in itself acts as

a self lubricant.

 

<p>

 

Other monorails may be different materials with different

lubrication requirements.

 

<p>

 

Using the wrong ones may be result in worse problems.

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  • 7 years later...
<p>I notice that some replied for a de-greaser and grease remover. Argus folks seem to recommend Ronsinol (which I found out is really naphtha), and I got some, but before using it I had some MG Chemical Audio Visual Head Cleaner fluid which has a mixture of solvents and it cleaned up my Ricoh SIX and Isolette I stuck focus rings in few hours of soaking. I got it at Fry's, but I am sure you can find it at some electronic store. I got the Naphtha from Lowes. Seems I had to get a gallon, since they didn't have a smaller container (~$12). The Head cleaner was $6.99 for what looked like a half pint.</p>
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