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Cleaning marks!? How the hell did that happen...


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I have the new version R-28mm f2.8 ROM. I bought it in mint condition, though used, and very carefully checked that the glass was perfect. That was about a year ago. Yesterday on a job I noticed quite a lot of cleaning marks on the front and even rear elements, and I'm rather perplexed.

 

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First, I don't clean the lenses very often, I have probably cleaned that one about four times in more than a year. When I do that I use a good cleaning solution with the kodak papers. The first thing I do is with the first tissue, saturate it with the cleaning solution and gently mop up anything on the element, namely dust or whatever. I usually do that twice to be sure all the dust is off--using pretty much no pressure. Then I take a couple dry tissues and slowly work off the solution.

 

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Now, under a loupe, there are cleaning marks ALL OVER the front and rear elements. However on my R-35mm f2.0, which I have cleaned much more and is about 20 years old (also bought second hand) has almost no evidence of cleaning.

 

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What is up with this? I thought the Leica coatings were supposed to be super-tough. I have really babied my glass and I'm rather ticked about it.

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Dave, Are you sure when you bought the lens that you thoroughly

checked it over, as in a shop, because its darker, tiny scratches are

usually harder to see. Did you check the lens with a torch as well?

The best cleaning method I think is to not clean your lenses at all,

but when you do, get a blower brush to remove as much surface rubbish

and then continue with the method that you are currently using. Also

bear in mind that the coatings are different for the various lenses,

some may be softer than others.

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Dave,

I learned the hard way about cleaning solutions while trying to clean

a B+W MRC Circ Polarizer. No fluid ever completely removed the

finger prints that turned into 'smudges'. I called B+W in Bad

Kreuznach and they suggested that I only should use alcohol and a

microfibre cloth. Sure enough, that worked.

 

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Based on that, the microfibre cloth is always my first, second and

third choice. Only when I have stubborn smears will I dampen a small

portion of the cloth. (The cloth is washable at 60° C and best to

use a non-coloring, non-perfumed detergent.)

 

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FYI Ethanol 70% (V/V) is my solution. I had to have it mixed at my

local Apotheke (Pharmacy), but I think that you should be able to

find one similar.

 

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The other thing to consider is how much these small foggy, streaks

imapct image quality. I do not know of any published reports, but I

cannot image that by the time the light travels the distance to the

film surface, and is then exposed, then developed, how much if any

degradation there is in image quality. That will come as no

reassurance to anybody at this forum, if you are like me, and simply

enjoy having clean and mint instruments.

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"They" say to breath on the lens, causing condensation to appear on

the element then wipe with a micro fiber cloth. The best one seems to

be, at least according to "them" again, a Microdear out of Japan.

 

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Who are they anyway and what to they want?

 

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Chad Hahn

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Before you panic get some microfibre cloths and some

household white vinegar cut 1:1 with water. Clean your lens with

that and finish off with a moist breath and a final wipe with a

clean mf cloth.

 

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I have bought several lenses with marks and this has always

removed the marks for me. I always use clean cloths for each

stage and wash my cloths (with two complete rinse cycles)

frequently.

 

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Using vinegar as a regular lens cleaner is a bad idea as it is an

dilute acid but once every couple of years to get off persistant

marks is fine.

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And before you do what John suggested make sure you wash your hands

thoroughly! The only time I have ever had that problem, is when the

ROR or other solution was pulling the oils from my skin and

transferring them to the lens. I use ROR on the corner of a micro-

fiber and gently rub it on the lens, and then follow up with a clean

dry portion of the micro-fiber. If I wash up first, nothing but

crystal clear glass. If I don't wash my hands first, smears...

 

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Cheers,

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I've always been told never to use tissue on lenses. I've also always been told to let actual

cleaning of lenses to pros. But my pro uses tissue damped in methanol, not ethanol. Go figure.

But he never actually rubs the lens with it. In the mean time, UV filters and great care for the back

element (put the cap back on as soon as you've dismounted the lens, for one) are

recommended. Now, I do use a lenspen from time to time on filters, and once in a while on

lenses, with no apparent ill effect. But microfibre cloth? I don't know...

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you started out wet!!! you should start out with a camel hair brush

and compressed air. thatll remove the nappy abrasives b4 pushing

them around on your elements with a sopping paper. then, use a soft

cotton lens coth and a touch of ROR cleaning fluid. then, lightly

buff any streaks left with a dry portion of the cloth. works for

me...

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Dave. Either the lens already had cleaning marks and you just didn't

notice (Believe me, this can happen, it has happened to me!) or else

you put them there. First of all, dust and any particulate materials

should FIRST be removed with a camel's hair brush or (carefully) with

compressed air (use only if needed). Only then should you wipe the

lens surface. And you should only use microfiber cloth, nothing

else. In fact, Leica provided a microfiber cloth in the box with my

M7. That's a pretty good indication of how they think a lens should

be cleaned.

 

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Finally, as I've said before, "it is better to keep your lens clean

than to keep cleaning your lens." That's why I would use UVa filters

on all expensive lenses regardless of what any one else says about

potential image degradation - that just won't happen. I learned all

of those things from the school of experience, which is usually a

very reliable teacher.

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Also bear this in mind: while it depends on the focal length,

aperture setting, and severity of the marks, much of the coating and

glass damage that we obsess over is NOT really going to affect on-film

performance. I used to have a 135mm f2.8 Nikkor with a just

atrocious-looking front element, and it was a very sharp, contrasty,

flare-free lens. Wish I still had it.

 

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Other things equal, though, I think coating and glass defects probably

have more effect (if any) on the image when the lens is wider and used

at smaller apertures. e.g., a 180mm f2.8 with coating marks will

probably work just as well as a perfect one, while a 21mm f4 may show

some image degradation.

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I first use a blower, then ROR and clean 100% cotton (cut from old

BVD's) followed by a breath and more clean cotton. Never scrub with

pressure, always with as light a touch as possible. And I use B+W

MRC UV filters on my lenses 100% of the time, even if adding another

filter like a polarizer (except wide angle lenses where this would

cause vignetting). Rear elements are exposed to air as quickly and

infrequently as possible. The only lens I've ever gotten wipe marks

on was a 180/3.4APO-Telyt which suffers in performance with any kind

of filter attached. Leica coatings are strong. But sand and grit

are stronger.

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BOB; In college I would read the small black American Cinematographer

Manual during lunch on Sundays at out Cafeteria........I would read

it cover to cover religiously....It is a great book...My prime movie

camera was a Beaulieu MR-8 reflex 8mm camera with variable shutter

and frame rates.....My friend had a 16mm Bolex..<BR><BR>The next

semster I ordered a cameramans manual that showed how to load all the

Hollywood 16mm. 35mm & 70mm movie cameras..it was a dark green

covered book...When I was reading it religiously one sunday in the

cafeteria; and old lady worker came to my table to see what the new

Bible edition I was reading...............Kelly

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