FP4 HP5 ID11 question

Hi Folks:

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I am trying to standardize on films and developers. I am using Ilford FP4 (for general use), HP5 (for low light) and ID11 to develop both emulsions.

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The negatives are superb with the FP4/ID11 combo. I am using 8 min at 68 deg F.

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The negatives are grainy with the HP5/ID11 combo. I am using 13 min at 68 deg F. The negatives are dense and appear overdeveloped. I can barely get an 8 X 10 with acceptable detail and grain.

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For agitation, I am using 5 tank inversions every 30 seconds. Is this too vigorous for the HP5? Is there a better developer for HP5? Has anybody else had grain problems with this 400 speed film? Thanks.

I forgot to add a couple of details.

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I am talking about 35mm negatives.

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I am using ID11 diluted 1:1 as a one shot developer.

Joseph,

If your films are a bit more dense than usual, they will probably be

grainy. Those things usually come together. An easy test could show

you if you're over-exposing and over-developing. Don't take for

granted spec sheets neither your camera and meter functions. By

experience, I can assure you HP5 is quite versatile and can be handle

to exhibit any kind of image you want.

Enjoy it.

Cesar B.

If the negatives are overdeveloped, why haven't you fine tuned your

times and/or dilutions to correct this? Work with your combination

heavily for a year or so and then take a look at what else may be out

there. Changing before finding out what you can really do with what

you have will only have you chasing an ephemeral goal with the next

combination.

Joseph: Try cutting your agitation down by half and see if that

helps. Ilford suggests 10 sec agitation each minute and five

inversions every half minute must be pretty close to double their

suggestion. I've used HP5 for years with both ID-11 and Kodak's

D76 and couldn't be happier with the results. Harv.

I too like the ID11 and have used it in the past. It is pretty much the same as D76. I would, as suggested previously, cut down your agitation and cut

back on your time... If they really look as dense as you say, shoot a roll of the same situation and do clip tests. This is the process of shooting a roll of

film of the same subject with highlights and deep shadows. Cut a small piece from the roll (approx. 4-5 frames) and develop this for say 10 minutes, do

another at 9 minutes and so on. When you get to the point of getting a great negative (detail in highlights and shadows)... this is your new "standard

time" for HP5+ and ID11. There is ALWAYS need for testing because your water and way of doing things will be different than others.

Hope this helps,

Scott

I use HP5+ as my low light film, rating it at 800 and developing in

Ilfotec-HC, dilution 1:31, one shot. My "normal" development

procedure was worked out by testing, was for indoor horse show arenas

(which are relatively uniformly lit,) and is 1 minute less than

Ilford's recommended time (at 68F, then adjusted for temperature,)

with agitation for 5 seconds every 30. When I recently took some

rolls of a high school theatrical production (same cameras and lenses)

I got negatives that were much too contrasty. After some

experimentation, I now develop theater shots starting 1.5 minutes less

than Ilford's chart, and give only two gentle inversions every 60

seconds. This gives me negatives that print nicely with a 1.5 or 2

filter, instead of the 0 or 00 filter that was needed when I used the

longer time with more agitation.

Thanks for your responses fellows. Kip and I are on the same

wavelength. The recommended development time seems to give me some

extra grain, density, and contrast. I need to do some more thorough

testing to establish an EI and a better development time.

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Since the FP4 negatives are great, I would rather not alter my

agitation schedule. An EI adjustment along with a development

adjustment should help the contrast some. I can always adjust with

contrast filters in the darkroom.

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The thing is I treated myself to 6 52mm Black & White

filters(B&W, the good German ones)for Christmas. They run from green

through yellow and red. My 35mm system is Nikon, so these filters fit

most of my lenses. I am using these filters more and more in clear

daylight black & white sessions. I like to handhold and not lug a

tripod when possible. Not the best technique, I know, but one tends to

get lazy sometimes. This makes the extra 2 stops of HP5 real nice.

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I just need to work on the HP5 some more to tame that grain,

density, and contrast. Thanks again.