joanne_de_boehmler2 Posted October 27, 2000 Share Posted October 27, 2000 I have shot a roll of Tri-X 400 at 200 and used a red (25) filter on my lens. Can someone advise me what my timing should be for processing this film? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhonda_buchmann1 Posted October 27, 2000 Share Posted October 27, 2000 Using the red #25 filter drops your film speed by two stops. By rating your film of 400 at 200 you have already compensated by 1 stop. You can compensate the other stop in the development by overdeveloping. Your developing time will depend a lot on what developer you intend to use. Also take into consideration under what conditions you exposed your film at (cloudy, hazy, flat lighting) you may want to overdevelop just a bit to bring out some contrast in the low-lights. You did not mention what your reasoning was for using a red #25 filter to begin with. What are you looking for in your end result in your image? <p> Rhonda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joanne_de_boehmler2 Posted October 27, 2000 Author Share Posted October 27, 2000 Thanks for your answer - I am new at this so still unsure about a lot of things. I tried looking for answers but could only find times for "pushing" to higher speeds. I plan on using Kodak D-76 developer for the processing. A chart I have here recommends 8 minutes for Tri-X 400. First I looked for processing times for 200 speed but could only find a note on Agfa Pan 200 at 10 minutes - so I ended up more confused than ever as whether I should process for less or more time! I used a red filter just to play - have not experimented with filters yet and went into a store and asked what should I start with and the red was recommended. It was a bright day and most of the shots are outside street scenes. So - trying to put this altogether - do you recommend I process for the 8 minutes? I hope you get this tonight as I want to work on this in the morning! Thanks again for your input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry_carraway Posted October 28, 2000 Share Posted October 28, 2000 How did you meter? <p> If you used the camera's meter, just process it normally. If you used a handheld meter, you need to push it one stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christian_harkness Posted October 28, 2000 Share Posted October 28, 2000 Uhhh, wait a minute. If Joanne used a through the lens meter, with the red filter on the lens , and exposed at 200, she OVER EXPOSED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christian_harkness Posted October 28, 2000 Share Posted October 28, 2000 Uhhh, wait a minute. If Joanne used a through the lens meter, with the red filter on the lens , and exposed at 200, she OVER EXPOSED by one stop, and should REDUCE developemtn arrocrdingly. <p> chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christian_harkness Posted October 28, 2000 Share Posted October 28, 2000 sorry - gremlins!!!!!!! <p> chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joanne_de_boehmler2 Posted October 29, 2000 Author Share Posted October 29, 2000 Thanks to all who responded to my query. I ended up doing the following and am pleased with the results. <p> I used Xtol made according to the package directions to make 1 litre and processed two rolls for about 6 to 6.5 minutes (I am not 100% sure of the time as I forget to start the timer and spent some time fiddling around with it after I poured in the chemicals) - I was aiming for 5.5 minutes. The second two rolls i processed for 8 minutes with the Xtol diluted 1:1. All four rolls have good contrast. Thanks again for your input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry_carraway Posted October 29, 2000 Share Posted October 29, 2000 Christian, <p> Many people shoot TriX at 200 or 250 with normal development. Better shadow detail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_brown Posted October 30, 2000 Share Posted October 30, 2000 I get great results with Xtol but the manufacturer's recommend times (Kodak and any other company) are intended to be a starting point only. You have to adjust development time to get the results you desire, using your equipment and techniques. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christian_harkness Posted October 31, 2000 Share Posted October 31, 2000 Hi Terry, I was not taking issue with what you said. I could have sworn there was a post on here that said, by doing what Joanne did, she had underexposed the film, and needed to push process. <p> Regards - chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joanne_de_boehmler1 Posted October 31, 2000 Share Posted October 31, 2000 Chris, I think that the push process was mentioned when it was thought that I might have used a hand held meter rather than my camera meter, which is what I did (use the meter in my camera). someone from Kodak sent me this response when I originally sent my query to them asking how long if I used D76: "Although you increased your exposure by a stop, you may still be underexposed due to the filter. Unless your camera meters through the lens, we suggest you add about three minutes to your development time. As we do not know your exact lighting conditions/light exposure, this is a starting point only. Please refer to the following URL for the technical data sheets: http://www.kodak.com/cluster/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f 9/f9.shtml Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christian_harkness Posted November 1, 2000 Share Posted November 1, 2000 Hi Joanne - thanks. Well, I am glad your film came out fine! <p> cheers - chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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