Contax T3 - User Comments, Discussion

FYI, Popular Photography has reviewed the T3. They rated the

lens "outstanding" and concluded that it was the finest P&S lens they

had tested. (The article mentions that the T3 lens is substantially

better than the "other two" posh P&S cameras tested as part of

a "shootout" in 1994. I think those "other two" cameras were the

Minolta TC-1, the Leica Minilux, or the Nikon 35ti.) Also, they

seemed impressed with the speed and accuracy of the autofocus system,

and with the accuracy of the exposure meter.

The Popular Photography article (July Issue) gave an overall

outstanding rating to the lens, no flare, no distortion and

outstanding rsoution and contrast. The reviewer concluded that, by a

comfortable margin, the T3 has the sharpest lens of any point and

focus that they have ever tested and that the T3 is the best point

and focus camera available.

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Now if I can just get mine back from the shop...

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I must say that I am also highly impressed with the crisp, sharp

results that my Yashica T-5 is providing while filling-in for the T-3.

I"m not surprised the lens tested out so well as its the sharpest

35mm lens I've ever shot with-it must be approaching the theoretical

limits for that focal length and is probably out-resoving most of the

film emulsions. Makes the 35 f2.8 I had on a Minox 35 look soft by

comparison. If I could by the same exact lens with a Leica mount for

the cost of the T3 camera, I'd order one today.

I found a few more T3 photos online at:

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http://www.fogel.net/t3/

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Of course it's really tough for me to tell anything about a lens

from photographs online.

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--Mike

Also, there's a better diagram of the lens assembly here:

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http://www.mamut.com/homepages/Norway/1/9/meridianfoto2/n

ewsdet226.htm

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Also a shutter speed chart for the aperture-preferred mode. The

chart does show that if there's too much light in aperture-priority

mode, the camera lens will close itself down.

I've uploaded higher resolution versions of my favorite shots from

the T3 and the Minilux Zoom. Note the fine detail of the wood grain

in the tree on the T3 shot and the texture detail of the terry cloth

on the Mililux shot. Seen on a print both have very sharp, rich

detail. I always thought that the T3 has a slight edge on

overall "snap" while the Minilux imparts a subltle luminesecence or

warmth to skin tones.

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If my house was on fire and I could only save one P&S, either the T3

or the Minilux Zoom, it would be the T3. However, I would grieve the

loss of the Minilux - the zoom and optics makes it a great people

framer/shooter. Great for framing individuals or small groups at

parties. It has a great feel about it.

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Phil

Can someone say kind of AF system the T3 uses? The passive AF in the

GR1 is one of my GR1 peeves. It's accurate but it's fiddly in low

contrast situations. I'd prefer that they used an IR system like

cheap cameras do. Sure, they may have trouble shooting through glass

and stuff like that, but in normal situations they're fast and

positive. Also, is it multi-zone by default? Can you set it to be

single zone? Thanks.

It's passive AF with near Infra-red beam assist. Popular Photography

rated the AF as "fast, fast, fast" and stated that the IR assist

range was over 15 feet and worked in complete darkness.

I found Phil's comparison scans really interesting, and John's contax

scans, as well. The boy with the towel has a magical look to it on

my screen.

What would really be cool is if somebody felt like doing a more

controlled comparison - nothing fancy, just take the T3, maybe a

T4super, and a Minilux non-zoom would be best; compare apples to

apples, that is -, then use the same camera position (tripod

preferable but not absolutely necessary if careful. Maybe step back

a tad with the minilux to get the same magnification. Same emulsion,

same lab on the same day. Scan the same, maybe sharpen slightly, the

same amount for all. If a human subject, have 'em hold their head up

to the same angle to the light, etc. To answer the obvious question

as to why the hell don't I do it myself, my excuse is that I only

have the Yashica. Just a thought.

Chas.

The difference between the lenses of the Minilux's and the T3 is

negligible for most P&S purposes. Even the Minilux zoom lens which in

theory should be the worst performer of them all, produces beautiful

and immensely pleasing, results. Wiht the exception of the T4, they

appear to be built to last a few lifetimes.

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I recommend you handle them and get the heft of them to see which

fits/feels best and then decide which feature set would best fulfill

the demands of your shooting.

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I wonder if Leica feels sufficiently challenged by the T3 to consider

upgrading the Minilux?

Yes, it would be nice if they'd incorporate some of those T3 features

in the leica, but the Wetzlar folk may be too conservative or smug for

that. We'll see. Thanks for the advice.

Chas.

After discovering this thread yesterday, I read through it with

considerable interest. Based largely on Greenspun's recommendations

and the testamonials on photo.net, I purchased a Yashica T4 Super (T-

5) a couple of years ago. My impression of that camera

after moderate use is mixed.

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In bright daylight, I've gotten some very pleasing crisply-focused,

nicely color-balanced 5x7 prints. No doubt, a stopped-down aperture

has been helpful in this regard. But not always. At times, the AF has

not captured the subject at the center of the image and there was

insufficient DOF for subject focus. Maybe it's a user problem,

but I've come to believe that the T4's AF is not entirely

predictable. Indoor exposures with flash are often a bit washed out

(ISO 400) and fuzzy.

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Not long ago, I came across the Contax T3 in a camera shop and was

intrigued with its features. Viewfinder shutterspeed info is nice.

(However, had Contax included the focus distance *in the viewfinder*,

that would have been much nicer.) Having aperture control

is very attractive. But now, upon learning that the maximum

shutterspeed is limited below F8 apertures, some shine comes off that

feature. When the aperture is set lower than F8 and the available

light calls for a shutterspeed faster than 1/500, one ends up

with overexposed images.

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I'm very much of the mind of Charles Stewart in his first message of

May 20. An honest (though subjective) appraisal of the Contax T3 vs.

Yashica T4 would be very much appreciated by, I'm sure, many people.

That means, loading both cameras with the same type film and shooting

the same images under the same conditions with each. Less shutterlag,

programmable options, (limited) aperture control, etc. are nice, but

to my mind can't justify the price difference between the two

cameras.

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What would be useful to know is whether the T3's AF is distinctly

more robust. Is the flash superior? Can one generally distinguish one

camera over the other based on image quality from similar exposure

conditions? (See Charles Stewart above, June 25)

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Phil Bonner writes that he's "highly impressed with the crisp, sharp

results that my Yashica T-5 is providing while filling in for the

T3." (It should be noted that the repair cost alone of his T3 could

buy two new Yashica's.) Phil, in what ways were the images (not

features) from your T3 more pleasing than from your T-5?

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All constructive comments appreciated.

It's obvious that the T3 has many features the t5 lacks, including

some that correct the several annoyances and slownesses inherent in

the t5 design. Not to speak of the vastly superior materials for

construction. (my T5's have been durable, though *providing they're

kept in a soft pouch and not just thrown in the purse/pocket, where

the plastic windows get terribly messed up)*

The only thing I can contribute to this question is that the T5,

especially at close range, gives me some remarkable enlargements. I

simply don't find it as convenient to use as a P&S ought to be,

because of the shutter slowness, maddeningly uncertain focus-position

detente in the release, etc.

Beyond that, I can only add the general observation, noted over many

years, that in photo equipment, the real "premium" items do not give

results differences corresponding to the price differences. But if

you're a quality freak (I confess to it), that *little bit* of extra

quality can be worth a lot to you. The manufacturers know that about

us, and charge "what the market will bear". That's my theory

anyway. The reason I'm pumping all the T3 owners for info is that I

have a closet-full of misc. photo junk that I've essentially had to

buy in order to test (and reject), and my budget won't stand it any

more.

Chas.

I own both, having picked up a T4 nearly 6 years ago and shot over

100 rolls of film with it. Even after 5 rolls of film with the T3, I

can safely make the following comparisons:

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The lens is better in all ways on the T3. Its noticeably better at

the widest aperture,which is very important on a P&S. Virtually all

flash shots are taken at maximum aperture on P&S cameras, so any

flash shots with the Yashica are at f3.5-its worst performing

aperture. There is less distortion on the T3, and there is no corner

light fall off which can be intense on the Yashica in brightly lit

shots with a lot of sky in them.

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The focus is much more refined and very accurate on the T3. The

response is very fast-I've never used an AF P&S that is faster. On

the Yashica, I got many good in focus shots and some randomly out of

focus for no known reason to me. The T3 has nailed the focus on

nearly every shot I have taken with it so far. Gives me a confidence

in using the camera for special shots. The ability to check where it

has focused on the top plate even adds more to the certainty that the

image will be in focus.

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The flash is more powerful than I thought it would be, and handels

most indoor stuff when needed just fine. Watch out for the red eye,

however. Fill flash outside has worked well also.

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Feature wise, there is no comparison to the Yashica and T3. To be

able to choose the aperture and easily set exposure compensation are

the two biggest selling points to this camera besides the impecable

optics. The T4 just drove me nuts in any kind of backlit situation--

you might as well not even take the photo because it will turn out

underexposed. I use the shutter info in the finder all the time. It

may not be an exact speed, but it sure is nice to know if you are

near 1/30 or 1/250, which on most P&S cameras like th Yashica you

have no idea what it is picking.

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I'm glad I bought the T4 and have many treasured images I took with

it. If the T4 had exposure compensation and a bit faster response

time, I'd have probably skipped the T3 and have $700 more in my

checking account. I'll probably give the T4 to my son in a few years

when he's old enough to start taking photos with something besides a

disposable.

Good information. Thanks. You're absolutely right: the t4 does

vignette, and everything I've read indicates that the t3's new sonnar

largely eliminates the problem.

Also correct is that the t4 does not shine in backlight situations

where you can't eliminate the bright background with the

centerweighted metering. The way out is to go with "flash on" and use

the little flash for fill, and there is probably also a way of getting

neutral density over the meter sensor, but those are clumsy or

unpredictable methods. Much better to be able to meter separately on

a substitute area, or spot-meter the area of prime interest, as you

can with the T3. I've never had the problem of the t4 misfocussing,

though. I treat the 3-point AF as single-point, avoiding any

ambiguity that would allow the camera to "make a decision" for me.

What is true is that you sometimes get coarse focus rather than fine,

since the camera has to choose one of its "zones", or stopping-places

(there are 160, I'm told), and sometimes you are luckier than others

with fineness of focus: I don't get out-of-focus shots, per se, but

some are more impressionistic, where others are tack-sharp. Another

problem is that the T4 IR autofocus seems to crap out in the middle

distances. Either it's that the zones are fewer out there, or that

the IR just doesn't reach there - I don't entirely understand how

the IR AF works. You're OK at infinity with the infinity setting,

I've found. My way of working with the T4 is to confine myself to

what it does best - well-illuminated subjects somewhat close in - and

the results can be stunning, but it's obvious that the T3 eliminates

many of those limitations and gives you a machine with greater

versatility and fewer limitations.

Chas.

I just had a message from Heike Maier of Zeiss in Germany

informing me that the 35/2.8 Sonnar lens for the Contax T3 will

be profiled in Zeiss's _Camera Lens News_ #15 (next issue).

Popular Photography July 2001 issue has a full test report on the new

Contax T3, with lens resolution figures, at f5.6 and f11, outstanding

86 lpmm, negligible pincushin distortion, no flare or ghost at any

apeture. Conclusion: sharpest compact camera POP every tested (

Pop tested Contax T2, Nikon 35Ti, Minilux ).

<p> I own and use Contax T2 for nearly ten years. Great camera.

<p> I like the styling of T2 better than T3. T2 has a classic elegant

look, very neat, no holes here and there. T3 looks like another

Canon Elph. I am going to keep my T2.

I have a question about the flash synch speed of the T3. Does anyone

know what it is? I would also like to see some pictures of the flash

bracket and external flash mounted on the T3 so I can see what I would

be getting into before laying out that kind of money.

I haven't recieved my T3 yet but I must admit I am pretty excited to

be able to back up my M6 with such a nice little P&S.

I think the T3 flash sync up to 1/500 sec, as T2

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I have a question concerning the flash too.

Do the flash goes to slow sync mode when used in aperture priority as

the GR1 do it? I found the flash settings of my GR1 to be ideal and i

am wondering if the T3 is as logical/simple on this point. Any

comment form a former GR1 owner would be great!

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<p>I don't know whether html or image insertion is acceptable in this

discussion thread, but I'll give it a try. You can see images of the

SA-2 flash bracket and other T3

accessories at:</p>

<p>http://contax.kyocera.co.jp/product/T3/</p>

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src="http://contax.kyocera.co.jp/product/T3/t304.htm"</p>

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I would be interested in using the T3 in indoor available light

situations, often with black and white film. The problem with point

and shoots (including the posh ones) has been the wide angle ofhe

meters. The GR1 allowinws some selectiviity. What experience have

people had with the T3? I'm talking about people photography not the

insides of big buildings.

The POP Photo review ofthe T3 says that in low light it sends out

a NEAR infared focus assist beam. Is this noticeable? does one see a

red beam?

Rollei Prego 30 note: I purchased a Rollei Prego 30 based on the

excellent results and sharpness of the slides shot with the Rollei

Prego 90. The P-30 was smaller, with a fixed fast lens and I hoped

to have the quality of the P-90. Got results back. Disappointed in

that the exposures were off (underexposed), and the close focus

indicator didn't seem to function well. But, the pictures that came

out were sharp. So I thought it might be worth pursuing. I called

Rollei and spoke to a tech. He said send the camera in for

adjustment. Well, I got a call from Carmen, who runs Rollei USA. He

said, and I quote, the Rollei Prego 30 CANNOT handle the constrained

latitudes of slide film - it was primarily designed to be used with

the looser latitude of negative film. There is no way to compensate.

He offered me a QZ35W at the same cost as B & H, and really wanted to

make me a happy Rollei customer, but in the end, I have a Prego 30

past the 14 day return policy for B & H and hoping to make a deal with

B & H to buy the T3 if they will take the P-30 back. I was very

curious on anyone's comments on the T3 versus the Ricoh GR-1s

particularly anyone who has both and can compare. Accuracy of

metering, close focus, viewfinder. T3 viewfinder is astonishing for

such a sma