What camera(s) are you using this weekend?

What's the problem with the IIIa, Niels? The slow speeds are relatively easy to fix as the mechanism is under the top cover. Getting into the shutter crate for curtain strap replacement requires a lot of disassembly.

The curtain roller spring might have weakened a little over the years. I think you can adjust this without having to fully tear down the camera.

@Rick_van_Nooij

There seems to be at least 2 problems.

1. When winding the film/tensioning the shutter and subsequently pressing the release button, nothing happens 90% of the time.

Or rather; the press on the release button will engage the the double exposure prevention but will not trip the shutter, it is therefore possible to advance the "film" again even though the shutter is already tensioned and hasn't been tripped.

On the other hand; When forwarding the film upside down, it is possible to trip the shutter 80% of the time.

I don't have to shoot upside down - I just have to wind the film upside down.

If the shutter doesn't release, it is sometimes possible to provoke a release by shaking the camera lightly while pressing the shutter.

 

2. Shutter speed accuracy: Speeds at 1/25 and below are unreliable, mostly visibly faster but also sometimes around the target speed.

Faster speeds from 1/50 and up appear visually to be reasonably correct, or at least there is a logical speed progression when a faster speed is selected. I will know more about the latter observation when I have exposed and developed the film.

 

It seems to be a lot of issues, and I don't have big hopes for the body.

Pentacon six TL with Biometar 2.8/80mm and Zeiss Ikon Ikonta with excellent Zeiss-Opton Tessar 3.5/75mm. Both loaded with HP5+.

@Rick_van_Nooij

There seems to be at least 2 problems.

1. When winding the film/tensioning the shutter and subsequently pressing the release button, nothing happens 90% of the time.

Or rather; the press on the release button will engage the the double exposure prevention but will not trip the shutter, it is therefore possible to advance the "film" again even though the shutter is already tensioned and hasn't been tripped.

On the other hand; When forwarding the film upside down, it is possible to trip the shutter 80% of the time.

I don't have to shoot upside down - I just have to wind the film upside down.

If the shutter doesn't release, it is sometimes possible to provoke a release by shaking the camera lightly while pressing the shutter.

 

2. Shutter speed accuracy: Speeds at 1/25 and below are unreliable, mostly visibly faster but also sometimes around the target speed.

Faster speeds from 1/50 and up appear visually to be reasonably correct, or at least there is a logical speed progression when a faster speed is selected. I will know more about the latter observation when I have exposed and developed the film.

 

It seems to be a lot of issues, and I don't have big hopes for the body.

From your description of issues, it sounds like your IIIa needs some serious repairs and it isn't that easy to find people to work on them. It's a pity since it is a fun camera to shoot when it is in good shape. As for the Sonnar, that is well worth adapting to mirrorless or a Leica. I don't think you will be disappointed in its performance.

I splashed out and sent the wideangle lens for the Leidolf Lordomat C35 away for cleaning; it's a Leidolf Wetzlar Schacht-Travetar 35mm f/3.5 and fairly rare. I'll take the camera out this weekend if the weather stays fine.

 

@Rick_van_Nooij

 

1. When winding the film/tensioning the shutter and subsequently pressing the release button, nothing happens 90% of the time.

Or rather; the press on the release button will engage the the double exposure prevention but will not trip the shutter, it is therefore possible to advance the "film" again even though the shutter is already tensioned and hasn't been tripped.

On the other hand; When forwarding the film upside down, it is possible to trip the shutter 80% of the time.

I don't have to shoot upside down - I just have to wind the film upside down.

If the shutter doesn't release, it is sometimes possible to provoke a release by shaking the camera lightly while pressing the shutter.

 

2. Shutter speed accuracy: Speeds at 1/25 and below are unreliable, mostly visibly faster but also sometimes around the target speed.

Faster speeds from 1/50 and up appear visually to be reasonably correct, or at least there is a logical speed progression when a faster speed is selected. I will know more about the latter observation when I have exposed and developed the film.

 

 

1. Sounds like a shutter spring tension issue as I've said over at RFF. I've never had to work on those on the IIa or IIIa, but it can be accessed from the take-up spool side of the shutter crate. Or there is something interfering with the curtain release linkage.

 

2. 1/25 and lower are governed by the slow speed escapement hidden under the chrome top cover (directly under the light meter). Which tends to gunk up over the years.

That always benefits from a little cleaning.

 

I normally don't service Contaxes for other people (except for my friend Eric), but I could always take a look for you.I've been on a Contax Repair spree over the last 3 weeks as it is.

1. Sounds like a shutter spring tension issue as I've said over at RFF. I've never had to work on those on the IIa or IIIa, but it can be accessed from the take-up spool side of the shutter crate. Or there is something interfering with the curtain release linkage.

 

2. 1/25 and lower are governed by the slow speed escapement hidden under the chrome top cover (directly under the light meter). Which tends to gunk up over the years.

That always benefits from a little cleaning.

 

I normally don't service Contaxes for other people (except for my friend Eric), but I could always take a look for you.I've been on a Contax Repair spree over the last 3 weeks as it is.

That is a very kind offer, Rick. I'll see if I can figure out to use photo.net PM functionality and reach out to you.

If you haven't received any message within a day - I (or photo.net) failed, and I would appreciate a ping in this thread.

Finished the film in my Contax IIIa (although not without inconvenience) and started a new roll of Portra 400/120 in my Rolleiflex 3.5C.

Location: Copenhagen Botanical Garden

Finished the film in my Contax IIIa (although not without inconvenience) and started a new roll of Portra 400/120 in my Rolleiflex 3.5C.

No, mistake!

Fuji Pro 400H, as if anyone care :)

For some reason I rolled 100 feet of b&w in to 18 exposure rolls. I can only say that alcohol was not involved but in the last few days I’ve been dragging around a bagful of F2’s or F4s bodies and a full complement of glass. Same stuff I carried in my newspaper days which could explain why I don’t walk so much as lurch now. I’m finding I still enjoy these things often more than digital. I actually have to figure it out before shooting rather than leaving so much to a computer. Not a bad way to spend an afternoon.

 

Rick H.

Here's one I haven't used in a while.

Last version of Canonet. I bought it from dealer stock in 1982. Meter went south a couple of years ago. I have a 48-49 adapter so I can use easy to find 49mm filters.

Wisner 4x5 Technical Field. The crown jewel of my collection. It is seldom seen or used and lives safely in a drawer. I need to do something about that. When I lived up on Cape Cod occasionally my work would have me driving around Buzzard’s Bay and down Rt. 6a through the beautiful town of Marion Massachusetts. There on the east side of this road was the Wisner camera facility. Not big, about the size of a small machine shop and I always entertained an idea on how great it would be to work there.

Beautiful. Makes me want to get out my similar Zone VI 4X5. You can't beat large negatives.

Rick, about to try a similar thing. 36 exp into 2 roughly 18’s. About all the shooting I get through in a week or so. How many turns for 18?

Rick, about to try a similar thing. 36 exp into 2 roughly 18’s. About all the shooting I get through in a week or so. How many turns for 18?

Mine says 19 cranks.

Thank you MJ.

Yeah I think mine said 18.

 

Rick H

Didn't fill up the roll in the Rollei over the weekend.

 

For next weekend at the "Historical Festival" at House Doorn I'll be loading up some sheet film holders for either an early 20th century top-handle Speed Graphic or Kodak Auto Graflex.

 

Hoping to shoot a couple more images like this one from 2 years ago.

 

 

 

And maybe Niels' Contax IIIa will show up before then, so I can take a look at it ;)

This week is vacation, so week-end every day :)

 

While Rick is having a look the IIIa - which is way above my abilities, I replaced the advance arm om my new-to-me R3 with one including the plastic tip.

It wasn't possible to source only the plastic tip, but a local repair guy didn't mind parting with a complete arm - it turns out nobody cares to pay to have their R3 repaired so he figured he would never need the arm - my luck - and super easy to replace.

 

After developing the first film from last week, it was clear that the camera suffered from severe light leakage.

The foam around the rear film canister window looked OK but obviously wasn't.

Not my favorite task to replace the gooey sticky substance, but satisfying when done.

 

It is now loaded with a roll of ImagePro 100 - so I hope I caught all the leaks.

 

 

I agree James .. nothing like big negatives.. and I have often split a 400 ASA 36 exp into two .."rough" 18 exp rolls.. of course it's a losing proposition , I generally roll 24 exp ..ie 24 clicks on the Watson Bulk loader. I'm not too exact... but thereabouts.

I believe that Kodachrome may have once been offered in 18 exposure rolls in addition to the 36. It seems that somewhere in some of the old issues of Popular Photography that I inherited from my father that I saw the 18 exposure roll advertised. I would have to look to be sure. Of course with bulk loading the 36 exposure gives the most shots per 100' since you're only sacrificing one leader whereas with two 18 exposure lengths it would be two leaders. When I want to process in a hurry I might only load 15 to 20 frames. For a quick test of a camera I might stop with only 12. I have found that film leader retrievers work better with loads of 15 or more. With 12 it might take several tries or else I use the bottle opener blade on my Swiss Army Knife. With manual I leave some leader out so the retriever is not needed.

To quote the illustrious Mike Eckman in an article he created regarding Kodachrome :

 

'"When it was first released, Kodachrome was only available in 16mm, as a six layer emulsion with a RemJet backing, intended for motion picture films. The first still film Kodachrome wouldn’t be available until September 1936 when it was released in both Kodak’s new 135 daylight loading cassette and 8 exposure 828 roll film format. The speed of the first Kodachrome was daylight balanced at ASA 8, comparable to Kodak’s Panchromatic black and white film. An 18 exposure roll of Kodachrome 35mm film sold for $3.50 and $1.75 for the 828 version, both prices included development by Kodak. When adjusted for inflation, these prices compare to $65 and $32.50 respectively, an incredible amount for a single roll of film."

 

The very full and informative post is available here: https://mikeeckman.com/2020/12/kepplers-vault-82-50-years-of-kodachrome/

 

As for home loading of 35mm film, I use only reloadable cassettes, with either snap-fit or screw fitted ends. I'm of the opinion that the fewer times the film is dragged through the felt of the cassette opening, the better. One tiny piece of grit can do an awful amount of damage...

Adding to the Kodachrome information, Kodak promoted the "thriftiness" of the film. That's right, in one ad on the back cover of a mid 50's magazine Kodak referred to Kodachrome as thrifty color. I guess compared to shooting color negative film and printing each frame it was. Also suggested (not sure if Kodak said this or some other company) that instead of paying twenty-five to forty since (more or less) for duplicate slides, instead just take two or three additional shots of same subject.

Also, until the early 70's, one could buy Kodachrome in bulk. Freestyle in a 1971 ad offered Kodachrome II in 27.5 foot rolls.

 

Now back to the original subject of this thread- what camera? Just loaded my Nikon FE-2 with Fomapan 200. I'll post a photo later.

Fitted with excellent Tamron Adaptall II 35-80 SP.

Adding to the Kodachrome information, Kodak promoted the "thriftiness" of the film. That's right, in one ad on the back cover of a mid 50's magazine Kodak referred to Kodachrome as thrifty color. I guess compared to shooting color negative film and printing each frame it was. Also suggested (not sure if Kodak said this or some other company) that instead of paying twenty-five to forty since (more or less) for duplicate slides, instead just take two or three additional shots of same subject.

Also, until the early 70's, one could buy Kodachrome in bulk. Freestyle in a 1971 ad offered Kodachrome II in 27.5 foot rolls.

 

Now back to the original subject of this thread- what camera? Just loaded my Nikon FE-2 with Fomapan 200. I'll post a photo later.

 

Mike, I would like to see the 27.5 foot short bulk roll idea make a comeback. That would be a great size load for those who shoot a moderate amount of film. But want to try different emulsions.

Some film manufacturers pre-cut leaders so a slight cut provided 36 exposures. A 27.5' roll would yield five rolls.