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Can someone tell me how to disassemble a Hasselblad 150mm f2.8 FE


vick_ko

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<p>No offence but if you need to be told how to dismantle it this probably means you shouldn't. If you would like to do some of your own repairs, it's a better idea to begin with less expensive lenses, make some mistakes with those, learn and move on to more expensive optics (or cameras, for that matter). It's what most of us who repair our own equipment have done.</p>
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<p>Thanks Brett. I've done other Hasselblad lenses. But their front rings have key notched to assist in getting the ring off, and they are all similar inside.<br>

I just wanted to "get ahead" on this lens, and see if there was other experience out there that I could learn from. </p>

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<p>When there are no key-notches on the front ring of a lens, I screw it off by using a rubber tool to provide sufficient friction. An o-ring of the right size, or a rubber cup (the sort that protects flooring under furniture legs), depending on the lens diameter.</p>
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<p>I would give the same advice as Brett. The way into the F150mm is from the rear but with the FE model there are very fine wires and electrical pickups that make it even more difficult than normal. The iris structure of the F lenses is unusual and even experienced repairers think twice when doing one of these. Gain experience by all means but this is not a lens to practice on.</p>
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I sorted out the lens.<br /> For those who wish to follow:<br /> <br /> 1. unscrew the front name ring with a rubber tool. There are no notches for a tool, you must use a rubber tool.<br /> <br /> 2. once the name ring is removed, you see 6 screws. Take them out; they have been thread-locked in. Now you can remove the bayonet hood.<br /> <br /> 3. now unscrew the front lens group.<br /> <br /> 4. to get to the iris assembly, start at the rear. Take off the bayonet flange (8 screws).<br /> <br /> 5. now take out the FE electronics stage, another 8 screws. Let the wires hang<br /> <br /> 6. find a copper flat lockring, and remove it. It is very thin.<br /> <br /> 7. remove the iris activation sleeve - carefully slide it out.<br /> <br /> 8. you will see three large silver screws that hold the rear lens assembly to the mount. Remove them, and take out the rear lens group with the iris.<br /> <br /> 9. The iris is in a case, and you can see the three screws that hold the cover. Remove it and you have full access to the iris blades for cleaning. My blades were covered in oil, causing the sluggish movement.<br /> <br /> Note the order and nesting of the blades - there are two sets of 5 blades, the upper form the iris hole, the lower form the auxiliary coverage for the blades.<br /> <br /> Despite the description, it is a very straightforward task, far easier than a C/CF series lens.<br /> <br /> Vick<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> On 21/11/2013 10:57 PM, Vick Ko wrote:

<blockquote cite="mid:BLU0-SMTP58719B84F21A43A2C452058CE00@phx.gbl">Anyone know how to tear down a 150mm f2.8 FE? <br /> <br /> Mine has a sluggish shutter. <br /> <br /> Is that front name ring glued on? <br /> <br /> I know how to tear down a CF lens; their front ring does not seem to be glued in, just tight. <br /> <br /> Thanks <br /> Vick <br /> </blockquote>

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<p>I'm in Canada. <br>

I was hoping to fix the issue from the front but that wasn't successful. So I needed to go in from the rear, which on most Hasselblad lenses is a more complex procedure. <br>

And the lens works fine, "the morning after". One thing I've learned is always to check the next day, as some things settle out with time, and can malfunction again.</p>

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<p>I do hope i am not considered rude,jumping in on this subject,but i would appreciate your expertise regarding a lens problem i have,the lens in question is a C lens 150mm,the problem is i am unable to recock it after accidently tripping it while off the camera body .<br>

If a repair is required,could i do it with any guidance you may be able to give me,i am a retired engineer but am used to working on larger items.<br>

thanks <br>

best regards Dave in France</p>

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  • 8 years later...

Note for those attempting this: on my 250mm FE lens the winding cam has a spring attached to it that seems to release when you remove the rear bayonet plate. You'll likely require a spanner to remove the rear lens assembly to properly reattach said spring, so ensure you have the correct tools on hand (or can wait for them to arrive without the use of your lens). If reassembled without attaching the spring properly it can jam up the cameras, so exercise caution. I was able to get the lens off the camera after some fiddling but be careful -- on the 201F it seems to attempt to trip the lens and then "give up" after waiting a period or upon removal of the battery and reinstallation. Upon completion of a repair procedure it's probably best to attempt to trip and wind the lens off of the camera before reattaching.

 

FYI for those interested in FE lenses it seems that the parts on various FE lenses are in fact interchangable. According to the service manual Hasselblad F => FE upgrade kits included a standard set of electronics (in addition to the lens-specific encoder rings and other parts), and the upgrade kits allowed the installer to configure the electronic boards by bridging the solder pads to set the maximum aperture. This likely means it's possible to swap the boards between lenses. They don't seem exorbitantly complex in and of themselves so it may be possible to fabricate a replacement PCB. Has me curious :)

 

I sorted out the lens.<br /> For those who wish to follow:<br /> <br /> 1. unscrew the front name ring with a rubber tool. There are no notches for a tool, you must use a rubber tool.<br /> <br /> 2. once the name ring is removed, you see 6 screws. Take them out; they have been thread-locked in. Now you can remove the bayonet hood.<br /> <br /> 3. now unscrew the front lens group.<br /> <br /> 4. to get to the iris assembly, start at the rear. Take off the bayonet flange (8 screws).<br /> <br /> 5. now take out the FE electronics stage, another 8 screws. Let the wires hang<br /> <br /> 6. find a copper flat lockring, and remove it. It is very thin.<br /> <br /> 7. remove the iris activation sleeve - carefully slide it out.<br /> <br /> 8. you will see three large silver screws that hold the rear lens assembly to the mount. Remove them, and take out the rear lens group with the iris.<br /> <br /> 9. The iris is in a case, and you can see the three screws that hold the cover. Remove it and you have full access to the iris blades for cleaning. My blades were covered in oil, causing the sluggish movement.<br /> <br /> Note the order and nesting of the blades - there are two sets of 5 blades, the upper form the iris hole, the lower form the auxiliary coverage for the blades.<br /> <br /> Despite the description, it is a very straightforward task, far easier than a C/CF series lens.<br /> <br /> Vick<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> On 21/11/2013 10:57 PM, Vick Ko wrote:

<blockquote cite="mid:BLU0-SMTP58719B84F21A43A2C452058CE00@phx.gbl">Anyone know how to tear down a 150mm f2.8 FE? <br /> <br /> Mine has a sluggish shutter. <br /> <br /> Is that front name ring glued on? <br /> <br /> I know how to tear down a CF lens; their front ring does not seem to be glued in, just tight. <br /> <br /> Thanks <br /> Vick <br /> </blockquote>

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