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HN-1 hood and filter size


shiang_wang1

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<p>I recently purchased a HN-1 hood to be used on a 28mm lense that I have.</p>

<p>I like to keep the hood on the lense all the time, even when I change the filter. So my plan is to screw the hood on the lense directly and filter on the hood.</p>

<p>It look like there are two places I can screw the filter on the hood, the smaller ring where I screw the hood on to the lense, and the place where I will have the 72mm lense cap on.</p>

<p>Does anyone know the size of the smaller one?</p>

<p>Do I sacrify IQ by this setup? I know normally people have the filter on the lense first then the hood on the filter. If not, should I go with bigger or smaller filter? Which way reduce the chance of vignette more? The primary filter I am using is polarizer.<br>

Thanks for any advice.</p>

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<p>You must have the 28mm f2 lens, which uses the HN-1. I have the 28mm 2.8, which uses the HN-2. I screw the hood on to the filter, but I don't use a polarizer very much, I just have a Nikon UV filter on the lens all the time. I don't think you will experience any vignetting with that hood and a filter. </p>
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<p>Unfortunately, no Nikon genuine hood has thread for the filter. If you use the screw-in type (HN series) hood with the filter, you have to screw the filter into the thread of the lens first and then the hood into the thread of the filter.<br>

The grooves inside the hood that look like the filter thread are actually just the grooves to reduce reflections.</p>

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<p>If you think about it, the <strong>last</strong> place you would want to put a flat glass filter is on the end of the hood where it will get no shading. You might as well skip the hood altogether.</p>

<p>Filter goes on the lens, hood screws into the filter. Both are <strong>52mm</strong>, which was the standard size for most small Nikkor primes of that era. The Nikon HN hoods are sized such that you can mount <strong>at least</strong> one Nikon filter plus the hood without any mechanical vignetting.</p>

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<p>Shiang - the filter you want is 52mm even if you screw the hood on first. Thats the setup that I do too, lens, lens hood, and then filter.</p>

<p>Michael - I don't think he meant putting the filter on the end of the hood (if he did I agree with you). I think he intending to do what I do - attach the hood first and then the filter on top of the inside thread, within the hood. I set up this way because it means I can easily remove/swap filters without having to detach hoods. I don't know the HN-1 specifically but certainly the folding rubber hoods are double-threaded and allow easily for this, and I'm pretty sure the Nikon hard metal hood that came with my 85/`.4 allowed for this too.</p>

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<p>The HN screw-in and HS snap-on metal hoods have no inside threads. Just concentric grooves to reduce reflections as Akira noted. The rubber HR hoods are the only Nikon hoods with double threads.</p>

<p>Which makes the whole discussion rather academic, as you can't screw a filter onto the end of the HN series hoods anyway. A 72mm snap-cap fits securely on the end of some HN series hoods very nicely. 72mm filters do not. :-)</p>

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<p>Oh, I forgot about the HR hood. Thanks for the correction, Michael!</p>

<p>Shiang, sorry to say this because you've already purchased the hood, but I would doubt the effect of HN-1 as "lens shade" because it is all-too shallow. If you change filters frequently, you can simply mount the filter directly onto the lens thread and can almost forget about the hood.</p>

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<p>Plus the HN-1 lens hood is (just about...) the smallest in width of the HN-1, HN-2, and HN-3 lens hoods. A filter on top of the lens hood would (very) likely have the filter with no lens hood effect when shooting with the lens.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Akira Sakamoto is correct here. If you look carefully at the HN-1, you will see that what looks like threading has no start or end points. It's baffling only. As with most such Nikon hoods, if you have a genuine Nikon 52 mm. lens cap, it will snap into the baffling. Very few if any non-Nikon caps will, but Nikon caps are designed to snap into a smaller diameter than others so that you can cap your lens without removing the hood, or in the case of HS hoods to cap the inverted hood.</p>
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  • 11 years later...
<p>I have a Nikkor 24mm f/2.8 lens, which takes the HN-1 hood. A 72mm filter is too large to fit the hood, which isn't threaded to accept filters anyhow.<br>

Do what others have recommended - put a 52mm filter on the lens, then screw on the hood.</p>

 

I have been using the HN-2 (made for the 28mm lens) on my 24mm f/2.8 prime, and I am getting no vignetting. It seems to be fine on a 24mm lens.

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Many of the old Nikon hoods are a little too short so if they were fitted over a filter they would not cause vignetting. For example, the HN-1 is recommended for the AIS 24/2.8, but the deeper HN-2 (for 28/2.8) will work provided is is NOT fitted over a filter. Similarly, the deeper HN-3 (for 35/2) can be used on the 28/2.8 when not fitted over a filter. If you do use a filter, best to stick to the recommended hood.

 

I had a similar problem with swapping hoods and filters in and out. In the end I gave up using hoods. The HN-1/2/3 for wide-angle AIS lenses are too shallow to provide useful shade from the sun and other bright sources of light, although they are useful for protecting the front element from knocks. If I notice the lens is flaring from bright light sources I use my hand to shade the front lens, or change position slightly so the shadow of a branch (etc) falls across the front lens.

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I use the 35/2.8PC as a normal lens on DX, most of the time unshifted, and for that, the HR-4 rubber hood is quite nice, even at F32, as is the HN-3. In full frame it's too narrow for full shifting. On unshifted DX it's good down to 24mm. unfolded and past 18 folded, at F24. I think it's a series E accessory, and I've only seen one in the wild, which I have. But if one drops your way, it's worth a look. Like all Nikon hoods, it allows a Nikon cap to snap in, and since it folds, it doesn't reverse. It also has true 52 mm. threads on the outer end. On DX you can put a filter or diopter on without vignetting, but I doubt that would work in full frame.
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