Undeveloped Old Film - Need Help

First, I must admit to forgetting about this venue...duh on me

 

As I have a number of rolls of undeveloped but exposed film...this film varies from 620 and 120 format. Age of some rolls is from 1930s - very old, No clue as to subjects. True BAck in the day," stuff...am so clueless.

 

I have kept the film is a cool place, since it came into my possession, but assume it was kept in a desk drawer...Mother took the pics, I think...When she passed I was given the rolls to develop and keep...I have feared development, and set aside. even though common sense tells me to give it s go...why not????

 

So, will accept any advice...on processing...am assuming Mom shot these with box or folding Kocaks (that old) and her prized Korelle.

 

Need advice on developer, temps, etc,

 

Thanks.

Edited December 10, 2021 by robert_hively_johnson

What kind of film? Presumably b&w but what else? Verichrome pan, something else?

 

Rick H.

Just unrolling film this old and loading it on a reel may be almost as big a challenge as developing it. You would want a low fog developer such as Kodak's HC 110. I think Ilford Microphen is low fog as well. The film will curl strongly (especially the 620) so you may want to develop it in a deep tray in total darkness or if it is orthochromatic (like original Verichrome, not pan) you could have a weak red safelight.

If the film really is from the 1930s, then a strong +1 to Mike's advice.

 

In addition: Film from that era could be on a nitrate base - highly flammable and prone to cracking or crumbling away with rough handling.

 

Cellulose ('safety' film) base can also be prone to another form of decay, where the acetate turns to acetic acid. So if the film smells of vinegar it may also be susceptible to falling apart with rough handling.

 

Just keep your fingers crossed that neither of the above is the case.

 

As for development. I'd give another 10% on top of the recommended time. No more. This should ensure you've got some sort of image without exaggerating the fog and grain too much. The shadow detail will have already succumbed to latent image regression and there's nothing that can be done to retrieve that, no matter how much you extend the development.

I have had great results with VP back to 1956, which is about as far as it goes back.

 

I have had bad results with recently exposed, but old (1940's) Verichrome.

 

What type of film are the rolls?

This is a March 1947 Verichrome 616 exposed in a Kodak Art Deco 616 folder last month. I bought a few 616 and 116 films to get the backing paper to reload them with newer 70mm film. I expose and develop the old films just to see how they turn out. I give them 1 stop extra exposure and an extra 30secs development over and above normal for Verichrome. Developer was stock ID 11 at 20C (68F)

 

If your 1930s films were kept pretty cool all this time and in a dark place, there's a chance you might get some faint images with smudgy fog, but as Rodeo Joe pointed out, much earlier film will be prone to image regression and to deterioration through rough handling. The way I loaded my film in the spiral was to first cut out a piece of thin cardboard from a small cereal box to 4"x the width of the film, then I fed the cardboard into the film spiral about 1 1/2", after that, I fed the film in on top of the cardboard, until it went well past the no-return steel balls in the spiral. I then removed the cardboard and started feeding the film in. I also cut tiny 45 degree corners on the film to lessen the chances of it getting caught in the spiral's sides. If you use a stainless steel spiral, well, I can't advise you about that, mine is a plastic Paterson spiral.

 

Edited December 18, 2021 by kmac

I have used stainless reels for 35mm since I was 10, and inherited it from my grandfather. (I still have that one.)

 

When I wanted to do 116, I bought an old plastic tank, and it worked, but finally found a stainless 116 reel and tank.

 

Plastic reels do work for old film, but stainless is easier.

 

The OP says 120 and 620. Those are easier to find in stainless reels. (I have one of those, too.)

If the film is orthochromatic (insensitive to red light in this case) then develop "dip" style by inspection under red light (or have it done for you Dip and Dunk Film Processing). If it's panchromatic, just do it in the dark. I wouldn't personally try to load such old 2.25" film on spools.

If the film is orthochromatic (insensitive to red light in this case) then develop "dip" style by inspection under red light (or have it done for you Dip and Dunk Film Processing). If it's panchromatic, just do it in the dark. I wouldn't personally try to load such old 2.25" film on spools.

 

I developed two rolls of VP122 using the dip method, as I don't have a reel that big.

 

It isn't so easy to do with old film, as the curl is still there.

 

Well, the first one I did with Diafine, which is nice, as the timing doesn't matter.

So if it didn't all get in quite as fast, it still works. The second, with HC-110, which

didn't work as well, but then again, I don't think the roll was as good.

 

I think stainless reels are still easier than dip method, even for old, tightly

wound, film.

 

But develop in red light is nice, when you don't know how long to develop.

first Thank-you...So y'all know, right after I posted, I took a flyer and injured me back muscles...and recovered a bit,so why not here quicker....am older dodger.

 

All of film is BW Kodak and would have to locate bag to verifty tyoes,,,no color,,,Mom was a shooter.procrasstinator and dark room fiend,,,,so expect some blown images'

 

My great concern is using wrong chem and burning away images,...I expect some losses, however, have 76 and 110 and maybe some others,,,do not know,,,stiopped film work say 10 trs back as hands were so messed,,,'

Edited December 23, 2021 by robert_hively_johnson

Glen, I had planned to use my old Paterson stutf and a bag to load each reel...plan to do one roll per,,,,Diafine, stuff in a can??? Might have some of that or its siblings...orange can/?

Diafine is a two bath developer, and first introduced to me by my grandfather over 50 years ago.

 

It comes in two cans. (Or maybe now some other form.) You mix two separate solutions, A and B.

 

For developing, it is 3 minutes in A, followed by 3 minutes in B, and between 70F and 85F.

Times are independent of film type, and often there is a speed increase.

 

Some of the comments above have to do with the film keeping its curl, being tightly wound

for so many years. Some reels are hard to get it to go in.

Glen curls, thnks...another item I had not planned on....and, as noted, ortho....re inpection process....all good to prepare for.....