Jump to content

Leica M8, I'm Crazy I know!


clark_roberts

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

 

I was on the auction site and purchased a Leica M8 it went pretty

low, not surprised I purchased it from someone in France it seems of

late you can get good buy's from over there. I just didn't want to spend

$3000.00 dollars U.S. for a M6 for me it doesn't pay I don't process my

own film and where I live I don't have any place that does film except

NYC which is a $20.00 round trip Doh! I've seen pictures and they look

good plus I have a Voigtlander 35mm F1.4 lens waiting for it.

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, at least not too crazy. I personally own two and they soldier on, many of their images posted here on the W/NW thread. Where it shines, at least for me, are the quality of the B&W images straight out of the camera, especially when shooting infrared, which the M8 easily makes possible handheld. Many people make claims as to the exceptional image characteristics of its CCD sensor. I'd say most of the examples that had sensor/display/shutter problems have been weeded out, and those still in service should hopefully continue on.

 

...or not. It's impossible to predict when one may fail (or any camera for that matter); just enjoy it for as long as it functions and when it doesn't, remember it fondly and move on. No sense worrying about it.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a variety of older digital cameras I use regularly in the range from 10 to 12.8 MP. Except for extreme crops or possibly large prints (I don't print larger than 13x19) they still produce fine photos in most genres. I use them both because I enjoy using them and because they still deliver required results. Leica, there is just something about Leica. I have the M3 I learned on and a D Lux a friend gave me. I understand buying an M 8 and using it until it stops. Edited by Sandy Vongries
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, you are not at all crazy. It's a terrific camera and still good enough for professional work today. You wouldn't rely on it completely, of course.

 

The price you paid is a fair one, too. I used to own one and I kind of wish I had kept it, despite the sensor flaw, which I mostly fixed with the clone and stamp tool in Aperture. And that's another bonus - you don't need the latest RAW converters to use these old cameras.

 

I saw one advertised on eBay Australia for $3K. I offered $2K which was rejected. As much as I love that camera I'm not paying more than $2K for it. I have some cash set aside, just in case...

 

BTW try playing with underexposure instead of boosting ISO. In some cases you might actually prefer underexposure. Also, you can go to higher ISO levels than you think. You should use chrominance NR, if that option is available to you, but you don't need to use luminance NR. Modern NR algorithms in DxO Photo Lab are apparently very good, so maybe the new software is worth it. One of our regular contributors suggests using slower SD cards on these cameras. The slower the better, apparently.

 

I'm a subscriber to Reid Reviews and I can see that a lot of M lenses are terrible on the bigger sensor. Your'e sometimes better off shooting the M8. Dark corners are easily fixed, and are not a problem. But smeared corners are a write-off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you're crazy. Not so much because it's old or only 10MP but because it doesn't have a full frame sensor. You throw away about half of the images formed by expensive Leica lenses. So the seller changed his mind it's OK. Edited by BeBu Lamar
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you're crazy. Not so much because it's old or only 10MP but because it doesn't have a full frame sensor. You throw away about half of the images formed by expensive Leica lenses. So the seller changed his mind it's OK.

I disagree with this. You do throw away the shitty corner performance that some lenses have, even on the M10. Some merely have dark corners, and you can fix that by either stopping down one stop (which you would do anyway) or adjusting a slider in the RAW converter. But some lenses are just pure failures.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is with M8RAW2DNG, 4-stop underexposure and pushed in post.

 

M8-4-F15-ISO2500.jpg

 

I set the exposure using my M Monochrom set to ISO2500, the M8 set to ISO160.

 

Monochrom4-F15-ISO2500.jpg

M Monochrom ISO2500, then transferred the F-Stop/ shutter speed to the M8.

 

Also a good indicator of the Crop factor. I tend to use the M8 with a 50mm lens with close-focusing to 0.7m or 0.65m. I adapted some classic SLR lenses to RF-Coupled M-Mount for it as well. I could not part with this camera- it has a zero-defect CCD.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...