New to Rollei infrared film

I used to shoot Kodak HIE but now that it's discontinued, I've decided to

switch to the Rollei 400.

 

I've seen alot of information on exposure, rating, and development, and I just

want to know if any of you had good results with a specific

exposure/ASA/developer. I'm under the impression that the Rollei 400 is ASA

400, but I'm reading that you rate it differently. And would HC-110 developer

work with it? That's my normal developer.

 

And what about focusing? I'd be using either a red #25 or #29 filter. With

HIE I used the IR marks on the lens....does this need to be done with the

Rollei as well?

 

It's been awhile since I did any shooting with IR and processing. Wondering if

the Rollei is at all similar to HIE. I do know however that it isn't as

sensitive to IR as HIE.

 

Thank you in advance.

 

Erin C.

I've never used Rollei IR 400, but I know a bit so I'll contribute what I'm able to.

 

Rollei IR 400 can be rated at 400 if you shoot it without a filter of any kind. If you put on a

Red #25 filter, adjust 3 stops. I'm not sure what the Red #29 is, but adjust accordingly. If

you were to use a Hoya R72, adjust 5 stops.

 

Even tho this is a 400 speed film, I've seen discussions on here that say you can develop

this film in Rodinal, as is it very fine grained for its speed. I really can't comment much

further than that, altho the dependable D76 is always out there and works with most films.

 

Check out this website for some good info on IR films and comparisons between IR films.

 

http://www.digitaltruth.com/store/product_tests/infrared_film_001.php

 

In there, you can find examples of focusing with vs. without the IR mark, as well as how

HIE compares to Rollei. It seems that if you overexpose Rollei one stop, it produces those

dreamy HIE blossoming highlights.

I did some testing of the Rollei IR film for Digital Truth last summer. It's really good film,

but not much like Kodak HIE. Use the deepest red filter you have. The #29 would be best,

a Hoya R72 better, but then you won't be able to see to focus.

If you are using the camera's built in meter and will meter through the filter, set ISO to

400.

If you are using a handheld meter then set it 3 stops slower for the 29 red filter. So you'd

set the ISO to 50. That sounds slow but you can get very good handheld shots in bright

sunlight.

 

I'm not sure about HC110. It should work, but you'll have to test it by bracketing and keep

careful notes of f/stops and shutter speeds. I tested it with Clayton F-76+. You can find

my times at Digital Truth.

Russ, with Rollei IR 400, do you use the IR focus mark if you're shooting the film with no filters at all? How about with a Red 25 or 29 filter? Hoya R72?

http://gallery.fotohuisrovo.nl/thumbnails.php?album=10

 

Use the Hoya R72 filter (RG720nm) or #88A (RG715nm) for the best results.

The iso speed is set to 12-25 then.(Depending on the IR circumstances in the atmosphere).

 

Rollei IR820/400 is less sensitive in the IR wavelenght then HIE, one of the reasons you can load and unload this Rollei IR820/400 film in subdue light. Take care of the 35mm version on clear polyester layer due to the "light piping" effect.

Use the 800nm correction dot on the lens.

 

Here the Rollei developing table: http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/Development_Rollei%20films.pdf

 

Rollei IR820/400 is a quality product from Agfa-Gevaert in Belgium.

But if you were using the Rollei IR as a standard b&w film, without any filters, would you still

use the IR focus marks?

Without IR filters you do not have to correct any focus.

When using visible light filters such as the #29 red, it's not necessary (in my experience) to

use the focus correction on the lens. However if using a small f/stop like 2.8 or brighter, it

would be a good idea to use focus correction. If using the Hoya R72 filter, and other opaque

or nearly opaque filters you WILL need to use the IR focus shift of your lens.

Cool, thanks... I was thinking of maybe using some Tri-X for something, but noticed the

comparison between Rollei IR 400, Tri-X and Foma 400. Might give the Rollei IR a shot as a

regular b&w film!

I'm using an 87 filter with Rollei IR, so my exposure times are quite long. I'm shooting 120 format, and on a sunny day I'm shooting 4 minutes at f11 on a Yashicamat 124G or a Mamiyaflex, neither of which have IR focusing reference marks.

I process in Diafine, so I'm essentially push-processing 1 stop.

After reading some threads here I was inspired by a special offer on Rollei IR 400 film. I used the first film to test how the shots turned out with a Nikon FE2 + Nikkor 35mm 1:2 + Hoya R72 filter.

 

Last week there was the prefect summer day, very sunny with nice clouds. I set the ISO to 12 first, took a shot and then to 25. In both cases I metered at f16 without the filter, fitted the filter and took the shot (using a tripod and the self timer). I was usually focusing at infinity and then moved infinity symbol to the left so that it was above the red IR dot of the lens.

 

Generally I'm happy with the results. Pity is that many don't seem to be in focus. Maybe I should have used f22 but would that have made a difference? Your suggestions of what could be improved would be most welcome.

 

ISO 12 f16

 

ISO 25 f16

 

Here a nice landscape but not really sharply in focus ISO 12 f16

 

 

ISO 25 f16

 

Edited August 3, 2021 by jimnorwood

I have original Leitz and Zeiss infrared filters, which are practically opaque. They

apparently permit only infrared light to pass through, unlike red filters.

It has been a long, long time since I shot infrared film. Any suggestions on meter settings.

I used to bracket a lot.

I have original Leitz and Zeiss infrared filters, which are practically opaque. They

apparently permit only infrared light to pass through, unlike red filters.

It has been a long, long time since I shot infrared film. Any suggestions on meter settings.

I used to bracket a lot.

My recollection is that some of the Nikon lenses from the film era had a red dot focusing mark for Infrared. I'll see if I have one or if there is a reference in the Nikon Nikkormat Handbook.

Edit, from the handbook: "All (film era) Nikon lenses except reflex have red dot or line near the black or white index for distance scale. A sharp image can be obtained by racking the lens out slightly after focusing on the image as seen by visible light to the red dot or line when the image is in sharp focus. The longer the focal length the greater the displacement."

Lacking old Nikon lenses, I suspect this next probably solves your problem. " In normal or wide angle lenses, however, when the aperture is stopped down to F8 or more, correction will not be necessary as it is covered by the great depth of field at such a small aperture."

Edited August 6, 2021 by Sandy Vongries

Another suggestion.

The examples above are very contrasty with blocked highlights. You might want to cut back the development time by 20% or so.

My question was not about focusing, but what asa to use

with a genuine infrared filter, such as those made by Leitz

and Zeiss. These filters are totally opaque to the naked eye,

unlike deep red filters, and were the ones I once used. Forgot

if or how I adjusted asa.

Hi,

 

 

 

This film is very nice and cheap compared to other brands. If you use it as normal panchromatic film the results are very good. The grain is peculiar with funny rounded dendrites.

 

 

 

The point about infrared focusing mark is a question of Fresnel coefficient and light wavelength. Different colours of light (wavelength) do not propagate with the same angle in such a material. Normal lenses are made to cope with visible light. So if you use the film with visible light no focus correction is required. If you do infrared then you need to use the IR marking to compensate for different light propagation angle in the lenses.

 

 

 

I shot a few of those films. I used A Cokin A007(89B) filter. This filter is quite affordable. The only thing to be cautious about is to use your hand as a sunshade to avoid reflection on the back of the filter. I developed the film 6 minutes in D76 stock, Foma (stinky) stop bath, and 4 minutes of Ilford rapid fixer. It gave good results.

 

 

 

For exposure, camera set on 400ISO, filter on, I followed the camera cell metering. I took one correct exposure then bracketed to over and under for 1 stop. The one stop over exposure is usually the best. Lately I went on Rollei web page. They suggest setting the camera to 25 ISO and make the measure without the filter. I should try that next time.

 

 

 

Have fun and show us the results.

I shoot a lot of Rollei Infrared film in a Fuji GSW680 rangefinder camera or a Rolleicord IV twin lens reflex camera so I never have to swap the infrared filter out for framing and focussing.

The filter I use is a cheap IR720 from China which works just fine. None of my cameras have through-the-lens metering so I use an Exposure Index of 6 on my hand held light meter.

The infrared radiation this film is sensitive to is so close to the visible band that no focus adjustment is required.

Development is in Xtol replenished mixed in with other films, nothing special.

Here's an example:

The older IR films went out to 900nm or so.

The Rollei film goes barely past 720nm, but maybe enough to get good IR images.

 

The IR focus line is likely based on maybe 800nm, so halfway between 700nm and 900nm.

 

Better lenses are color corrected to have close to the same focal point across the visible range.

When that is done, the focus tends to change fast just outside the visible range, which is the

main reason for the R focus line.

 

At least the first time you should bracket a lot, as the exact cutoff of the filter

makes a big difference in how much light comes through and is seen by the film.