Trial of EOS 620

with Sigma 28-70 variable aperture contemporary to the camera. The AF was consistently good, the sharpness just okay and contrast medium.

 

This is a still useful camera available for peanuts (not P.nets). I think it will take all or nearly all newer EOS EF mount lenses still.

 

Thanks for reminding us of it.It and the 650 (still good too) were the first EOS.

 

I did a report on it long ago. It was one of my first goes at AF film cameras.

Canon EOS 620 - Canon's first EOS "professional" camera

Here's another shot from the roll. The film may have been outdated...I don't recall.

 

The Sigma lens is nothing special. Is there a not-too-expensive Canon zoom about the same focal lengths?

If you can find one, the first Canon 28-80 model is a much better lens than the later versions. It's a true USM lens with a metal mount and distance window and would be contemporary with the 620. Another very good early EOS zoom is the 28-70 F/3.5-4.5 - not USM but it's capable of excellent image quality.

What is USM?

Ultrasonic motor - a fast and silent focusing system used in some EOS lenses. It also allows full time manual focusing (FTM) where the user can adjust focus manually even in AF mode.

Ultrasonic motor - a fast and silent focusing system used in some EOS lenses. It also allows full time manual focusing (FTM) where the user can adjust focus manually even in AF mode.

 

Got it. Can I get a reasonabl3e zoom with anti-shake abilities?

The only image stabilised zoom I have any experience with is the 28-135mm F/3.5-5.6 IS USM. This was one of the early IS lenses and some examples may have a degree of play in the zoom mechanism from long term use. They seem to be reasonably priced and I was quite pleased with the image quality.

Got it. Can I get a reasonabl3e zoom with anti-shake abilities?

 

Any Canon EF lens with IS should be fully functional even with this old body; I can't speak for compatibility with non-Canon lenses. I agree with Mr. Seaman's assessment of the 28-135 - it was my main lens for several years and I was happy with it.

"Can I get a reasonabl3e zoom with anti-shake abilities"

 

Any image stabilized lens made for the EF system will work, though with a Canon brand lens you are assured of compatibility with an old EOS film body. The 28-135 IS, as recommended above, would be a good and reasonably priced alternative. Of course if money is not an issue, the 24-105 L IS F4 would also work and has a pretty red stripe as all Canon "L" lenses have.

It occurs to me that I may be misjudging the Sigma glass. The lack of sharpness may be from my unsteady old hands. I will try the Sigma again on a tripod.

It occurs to me that I may be misjudging the Sigma glass. The lack of sharpness may be from my unsteady old hands. I will try the Sigma again on a tripod.

 

It's generally a good idea to use a tripod rather than handholding if you're trying to judge sharpness. The usual guidelines on how to get the best from a tripod apply (not extending it any higher than necessary, for instance). Also, if available (I don't know the 620's features), consider using the following features:

 

• Mirror lockup: flips the mirror up and out of the way a few seconds before taking the picture, so that vibrations caused by moving the mirror have time to die down
  
• Remote shutter release: you can't press the shutter release button on the camera without contributing a little bit of shaking to the camera, so using a remote release lets you trip the shutter without touching the camera
  
• Self-timer: if you can't use a remote release, the self-timer allows the vibrations from you touching the camera to die down before taking the picture
  

It's generally a good idea to use a tripod rather than handholding if you're trying to judge sharpness. The usual guidelines on how to get the best from a tripod apply (not extending it any higher than necessary, for instance). Also, if available (I don't know the 620's features), consider using the following features:

 

• Mirror lockup: flips the mirror up and out of the way a few seconds before taking the picture, so that vibrations caused by moving the mirror have time to die down
  
• Remote shutter release: you can't press the shutter release button on the camera without contributing a little bit of shaking to the camera, so using a remote release lets you trip the shutter without touching the camera
  
• Self-timer: if you can't use a remote release, the self-timer allows the vibrations from you touching the camera to die down before taking the picture
  

 

I thank you for the thoughtful response. I am taking the advice above and have ordered a mint copy of the Canon 28-135mm.

I frequently use my EOS 620 often with my 23 year old EF 28-70mm f/3.5-4.5 which creaks and grinds it's way to focus but is always spot on. It's a glass lens, no pressed plastic here, and provided I keep screwing it all back together it all works fine. I have all three models from the 6XX range and they're all great cameras even today. The pictures posted do have the look of expired film but at least they prove the camera is light tight and works.