IlfoTec DD Developer and Kodak T-Max P3200 Film...???

Is it a good idea to develop Kodak T-Max P3200 film in IlfoTec DD (or DD-X) developer? I wrote to The Darkroom photo lab, and they said they use the IlfoTec DD

I'm thinking about exposing the film at ISO 1000 instead of 3200. Has anyone here tried that? If so, how were the results? Also, how would the results be if I exposed the film at ISO3200?

Thanks.

It seems a waste of the design of the film to do that, but I suppose you can.

For the higher ISO values, TMax or Xtol seem to be the recommended choices,

and also for Delta 3200.

Well, you don't say if it is new or old. These films get old fast. The longer

past date, the lower EI is probably a good idea.

Favorite for old films is HC-110, though.

Well, you don't say if it is new or old. These films get old fast. The longer

past date, the lower EI is probably a good idea.

I just ordered 10 rolls from B&H Photo, so new.

I have some 20 year old, which is pretty bad.

I have one that is fairly new, maybe recently expired, and stored cold.

But it still goes bad from cosmic rays, even cold.

This was last summer, developed in TMax with the time for EI 25000.

(I suspect it is closer to 6400.)

At f/3.5 and 1s, lit by a full moon.

The true ISO is closer to 1000. Anything more is just underexposure. So getting any image at all with 4.5 stops underexposure is quite lucky!

That chalet and trees were going nowhere Glen. Would another few seconds exposure really have hurt?

The true ISO is closer to 1000. Anything more is just underexposure. So getting any image at all with 4.5 stops underexposure is quite lucky!

 

That chalet and trees were going nowhere Glen. Would another few seconds exposure really have hurt?

1s is the longest it goes, and I didn't bring a cable release and/or tripod.

(FT3 with Tamron 24-80 f/3.3 zoom at 24mm)

We were out boating, nowhere near home, so nowhere to grab a cable release.

I might have tried without one, but I don't think I could hold it still enough.

Well, part of it was to see what TMZ does pushed, but I might have tried longer exposure if I had one of those.

I set the camera on a fence rail, and then held it against the rail enough that it wouldn't move.

I now put a cable release in the camera bag so I will have one next time.

Many years ago, I did moonlight photography with Ektachrome 200, and did have a cable release.

I believe that was 15 minutes at f/2. I don't remember how I decided on that.

The true ISO is closer to 1000.

I was wrong. It's not even close to 1000 ISO.

This is straight from the horse's mouth (Kodak Alaris):

For it to have a speed of 1000 ISO the 'toe' of the curve would have to fall in the region I've marked in red. About 1 whole stop to the left of where it actually is.

And it's even slower if developed in D-76 or T-Max RS.

So how you can get golfball sized grain from a 500 ISO film is some feat of chemical engineering!

Many years ago, I did moonlight photography with Ektachrome 200, and did have a cable release.

I believe that was 15 minutes at f/2. I don't remember how I decided on that.

Hmmm. I seem to remember getting handheld shots with my D800 under a full moon, and with a smaller aperture than f/2.

I was wrong. It's not even close to 1000 ISO.

 

This is straight from the horse's mouth (Kodak Alaris):

[ATTACH=full]1378733[/ATTACH]

For it to have a speed of 1000 ISO the 'toe' of the curve would have to fall in the region I've marked in red. About 1 whole stop to the left of where it actually is.

 

And it's even slower if developed in D-76 or T-Max RS.

 

So how you can get golfball sized grain from a 500 ISO film is some feat of chemical engineering!

 

Hmmm. I seem to remember getting handheld shots with my D800 under a full moon, and with a smaller aperture than f/2.

I had a D200 and did some shots with that, and used those to see how far off I was.