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building a camera


tbarrent

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I know its "easier" to repair a camera, or to take an old camera and put in better components. But im curious on what sources show to build one from the ground up.

 

Namely the shutter mechanism and how to calculate the focal length to use it with different film formats.

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Can you elaborate more? I've been involved with a couple of specialized studio cameras with, let's say, "shop-built" shutters. These were really only suited to indoor studio flash work such that perfectly even shutter action was not needed, only the ability to be fully open for the flash.

 

Is this something you want to actually build? As opposed to just having a sense of how they work.

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I don't think I'd want to build the shutter, but the rest of the components for a view camera might be possible. A used lens/shutter combination that covers the largest format you're interested in would be the way I'd go. You could adapt it to take different size film holders (either sheet film or roll film) to provide different formats. Interesting project.
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Actually there are more than one building cameras today using 3 d printing. The question remains, however, as to calculations etc. Seems at least one of these companies build the camera body then create also a lens board for the lens of your specification. I'm showing a couple examples but have seen others at various places (instagram for example) online.

 

3D Printed Camera : OpenReflex

 

https://www.maleficwares.com/shop

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For a "normal" lens, make the focal length about equal to the diagonal of the film/frame. I suppose you could grind your own lens, but it would be fastest to just get a lens in a leaf shutter. Study the Speed Graphic. I think they were made out of wood, covered in leather, and are of simple construction, save for the focusing rail. Many field cameras are easy to build and at least one was available as a kit. Kids used to build cameras out of an oatmeal box, with a pinhole and taping the film to the back. Finger shutter or black tape. You can build whatever level of complexity you have the equipment for.
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The simplest to make, of course, is a pinhole camera. If that is not too simple for you, I can send or post some old instructions.

 

Making something like a Copal shutter from scratch is probably beyond all but the most machine-shop out-fittted engineer.

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Iris type leaf shutters are probably best made by watch and clock makers. The blades are easy enough to photo-etch, it's just the whole rest of the thing that's difficult. OTOH, there are some simple designs that can work well; consider the slotted disc used for the Mercury II or the very simple single blade shutters used on box cameras. I think some old studio cameras used drop shutters that relied on gravity.
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To the OP - how about some specificity? What are you aiming at? What is your budget? How skilled are you? Without some guidance you'll just get a bunch of less than fully useful answers, as well intentioned as they may be.
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Well its easy really,, i have an interest in the early leaf shutters, the early disk shutters. I have seen in some diagrams for the old box cameras the shutter is just a spring pushing on a tiny flap of metal.

 

I just dont know the calculations needed to figure out:

 

the spring strength to get an exact shutter speed setting, the right size to make the shutter, calculating the focal length to use,

 

Im cranky and have lots of time coming up.

 

was thinking of using old cell phone lens at first, or one of those clip on cell phone lenses they sell at the store to get a bit of variable focal length.

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There was a camera called the 'Purma Special' that used a form of gravity-operated drop shutter. The designer somehow managed to get 3 fairly well-defined speeds out of it, depending on how the square format camera was orientated.

 

Anyhow. All you need for a drop shutter is a weighted plate with a slot cut in it, and a latch to stop it falling until triggered. Since gravity applies a constant force, you get very consistent exposure times. (Might be slightly longer at the top of Mt. Everest)

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not many can explain the way that some of the early shutters actually managed to stay closed when cocking.

Try searching early shutter patents. Most contain quite detailed engineering drawings.

 

You probably have to start at the turn of the C20th or late C19th. Before that the 'shutter' was just a lens cap or top hat, and it was only when dry plates became available and fast enough that mechanical shutters became a necessity.

It seems that the first popular shutters were pneumatic 'eyelid' contraptions, or roller-blind shutters attached to the lens.

 

Roller blinds automatically cap themselves after firing by overlapping the blinds. The two blinds are then moved in unison as they're wound back and re-tensioned. The exposing slit is caused by delaying release of the second blind WRT the first.

Edited by rodeo_joe|1
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The exposing slit is caused by delaying release of the second blind WRT the first.

Or, in the bizzare case of the Zenit 16, delaying the release of the first curtain with regard to the second.

 

 

First decide what you're going to shoot, film format and type, and the emulsion speed, then you can specify your lens and shutter around that.

Edited by steve_gallimore|1
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You mean, they close the shutter first, then open it allowing light to hit the second curtain?

Not quite...

 

https://kosmofoto.com/2020/03/the-zenit-16-the-russian-revolution-that-never-quite-happened/

 

Someone once explained Russian design philosophy to me as 'take the obvious answer, throw it out the window, turn the problem on it's head and you have the solution'

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Not quite...

 

https://kosmofoto.com/2020/03/the-zenit-16-the-russian-revolution-that-never-quite-happened/

 

Someone once explained Russian design philosophy to me as 'take the obvious answer, throw it out the window, turn the problem on it's head and you have the solution'

 

Remember, the engineering team who came up with this idea may also have been the engineering design team that figured out Russian Roulette

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Not quite...

 

https://kosmofoto.com/2020/03/the-zenit-16-the-russian-revolution-that-never-quite-happened/

 

Someone once explained Russian design philosophy to me as 'take the obvious answer, throw it out the window, turn the problem on it's head and you have the solution'

I see. They vary the head start the first curtain gets, instead of varying the release delay of the second curtain. Should work as well.

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