life with a Tiltall tripod

My cheesey gold anodized anniversary model tiltall has a phillips screw, but I've never tried to remove the head, 'cause I like 'er swell.-------------Cheers!

I just got an Arca-Swiss B1 and would really like to mount it on my Tiltall center column. I inherited this Tiltall from my father in 1987. He was a leica shooter, strictly basics for him. And I really don't see why, at 6 lbs with pan/tilt head, I need to replace this tripod. With the Arca-Swiss it'll weigh about the same as with the original pan/tilt.

 

So what experience have you all got with that, aside from replacing the center column with the Gitso? One person mentioned on another of my lists that one could unscrew the pan/tilt head from the column and install the new head. Anybody have any experience with that?

Emily:

 

I managed to make my own center column from some hardware store parts about 20 years ago for my Tiltall. On the new center column I mounted a Gitzo ball head, and I could switch back and forth betweent he two heads very easily. The Tiltall now holds my telescope (on the new center column) because I have moved on to other tripods for photo use.

 

I wrote up instructions and submitted the idea to a magazine, but it was rejected as an article. Because I still have the text on file, I'll post it below. I put a photo of the mod on the web and a link is contained inside the article text. Let's hope it all gets pasted below successfully.

 

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Fit Another Head To The Tiltall Tripod

 

A photo of the modified tripod can be found at http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~schneidw/tiltall-mods.jpg

 

This article details the construction of a separate center column for the Tiltall to hold an auxiliary tripod head. After construction, the user can select which column/head assembly is desirable for the task at hand and insert it within seconds. The cost of constructing the new center column is under $10, and the parts should be available from well stocked hardware stores.

The standard Tiltall head is a high quality pan-tilt head that has an ingenious spring loaded screw to facilitate camera mounting. However the unique features of a ball head make it an attractive option to have in addition to the standard head. Most ball heads have just one control to loosen and tighten the camera mount platform, making operation rapid. This can be an advantage when photographing subjects that move, i.e., wildlife or sports. I mounted a Gitzo 275 ball head for this article.

A Reynolds Wall and Floor Flange is used to provide a new platform on which to mount the new tripod head. They are generally found in the home improvement section and are intended to mount decorative aluminum tubing to flat surfaces. The end of the flange that fits into the tube is tapered, and light filing enables it to fit into stronger, thicker wall tubing instead of the decorative tubing it was designed for. The tubing used was a 20 inch length of 1-1/4 inch O.D. by .065 inch wall seamless aluminum tubing made by Alcoa.

A length of all-thread rod having 3/8-16 threads and secured with a jam nut was used to hold the new tripod head to the flange. Most auxiliary tripod heads have 3/8-16 attachment threads. Some stores carry 3/8-16 carriage bolts that are threaded along their entire length. These can be substituted for the all-thread rod if desired.

To hold the flange securely to the tubing, four #4-40 x1/4 flat head screws are used around the tubing periphery. They fit into countersunk holes to allow the column to bottom in the tripod.

 

Assembly

Construction of the substitute center column for holding the accessory tripod head consists of inserting a 3/8-16 stud into a flange, and attaching the flange to a length of aluminum tubing.

 

Step 1. Use a hacksaw to cut the aluminum tubing to the desired length (about 19-20 inches). The saw produces a ragged cut. Use a file to smooth and square the hacksaw cut, as well as remove burrs from the inside edge of the tube. A little care here will pay dividends when mounting the flange later.

Step 2. Prepare the flange for tapping by first enlarging the hole in the bottom of the flange with a 5/16 inch drill bit. The flats cast into the flange sides provide a convenient way to hold the flange in a vise for drilling.

Step 3. After drilling, use the 3/8-16 tap to cut the desired threads in the flange. Use a few drops of oil to lubricate the tap during thread cutting, and keep the tap aligned squarely for best results. After tapping, remove debris from the flange.

Step 4. Start a 3/8-16 nut onto the threaded rod, and thread the rod into the flange until it protrudes from the top about 1/2 inch. Tighten the nut securely against the bottom of the flange to lock the threaded rod in place. The excess rod below the nut can be removed with a hacksaw.

Step 5. File the tapered end of the flange a small amount to enable it to fit the tubing. Work slowly and evenly around the flange, and don't remove too much. Frequent checks on fit should be made as you file.

Step 7. With the flange seated in the tube, drill a hole through the tube and flange with a #43 drill bit. Note the position of the flats on the flange in relation with other features so they can be avoided when drilling and tapping. Reduce drill bit wandering by first using a center punch to start the hole.

Step 8. After drilling, use the #4-40 tap to cut threads into the hole. Once again, use oil to aid the tapping operation. Be sure the tap doesn't contact the 3/8 stud in the center or it will break. Remember to reverse tap direction frequently to dislodge metal chips and prevent tap breakage.

Step 9. Place the countersink bit in the drill and countersink the tapped hole until the #4-40 screw fits flush. Don't countersink too deeply or the flange will not be adequately secured to the tubing.

Step 10. With one screw in place, proceed to drill and tap the holes for the remaining three screws. After firmly tightening the screws, lightly file the screw heads to remove protruding burrs that may nick the tripod clamp collar. As a final touch, gently round the bottom edge of the 1/8 inch of the aluminum tube so that it can be inserted easily into the tripod. The column is now ready to accept the alternative tripod head.

The low cost and ease of constructing a new center column for the Tiltall expand the versatility of this popular tripod. You will appreciate having quick-change tripod heads for various needs.

 

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Bill Schneider<div></div>

I read Michael Ginex's response and suggestion that a Gitzo 1317C column

could be used on a Tiltall to facilitate head interchangeability. I took a chance

and ordered the new version which is grooved- G1317. I don't think you can

get it "un-grooved. Ureka! It works perfectly. It's a little shorter by about five

inches than the original Tiltall column but that's fine. My camera has no

business dangling up in the air like a lightning rod for vibration anyway. By

the way, I've owned my Tiltall since the early seventies and can recommend

it's solid support and reliability. Get an old one if you can. Thanks Mr. Ginex!

And all who responded.--Mike.

<p>I have a Marchioni 4602 Tiltall that came with a Panogear head that has small handcranks for pan and tilt. The Pano is very smooth compared to a ball-head. The tripod is mainly used for shooting documents of varying sizes, and a handy feature would be a handcrank for varying the distance to the subject - instead of the bumpy telephoto. Any thoughts?</p>

<p>Photographer Gary Regester has parts for Tiltall tripods and helpful information about keeping them going.</p>

<p>In particular, he offers a new center column with 1/4-20 and 3/8-16 threaded platforms for attaching standard tripod heads. <a href="http://sites.google.com/site/garyregester/tiltall-support">http://sites.google.com/site/garyregester/tiltall-support</a> </p>

I just got mine in the mail today ($65.00 on EBay) - All black, quality craftsmanship. Still in great shape, no grievous signs of wear and tear. All bushings are clean, seemingly fresh, and functioning as they ought to. What's not to love? Metal logo plate says Leitz - If any of y'all have any idea what year Leica replaced these with the black paper logo stickers, it'd help mightily in narrowing down the age. Very happy - This should hold me for quite some time :)

 

Leitz USA purchased the Tiltall tripod line in 1973 and made them until about 1990 when they were bought by Fred Albu who owned Camera Barn, Uniphot and Star D.

I bought my Marchioni 4602 back in high school, probably 1970 or so. It's been a faithful companion ever since and I never let it out of my sight. I picked it specifically because it was about the lightest thing that would hold a 4x5 and I knew I was headed to RIT with my trusty Calumet 4x5. I may have bought the tripod from them too, but can't remember. That vintage is not anodized, so the aluminum is subject to attack unless you keep it clean and polished. I've used mine in the middle of a river- no problem so long as you disassemble and clean everything afterwards. Lubrication is critical to smooth function. They were sold new with a tripod screw about an inch long. You were expected to cut it off to suit the camera socket depth. No doubt many made a bollocks of this task, getting it too short or too long.

As long as it's been reanimated

 

also see history at -- Tiltall Tripod Support: Tiltall Tripod - a Short History of a Classic Design

What's the recommended lube procedure for these? I've read the Marchione brothers recommended vaseline for the legs, and I've also see white lithium grease suggested. My leg locks had some grungy looking old gear grease in them that I've removed for now. Head fittings were dry.

Why would you use anything other then what the inventor recommended?

I had a Leitz Tilltall (made in USA) many years ago. I gave it away when I sold all my cameras in the late 80's. It's a nice tripod though.

Why would you use anything other then what the inventor recommended?

 

Because we have much more sophisticated lubricants than when it was invented.

Because we never had the easy availability of such products back then as we do today.

Because the inventor probably wan't a lubrication specialist and chose something common that seemed to work OK.

Because I'm just a contrary old you-know-what. o_O

Because we have much more sophisticated lubricants than when it was invented.

Because we never had the easy availability of such products back then as we do today.

Because the inventor probably wan't a lubrication specialist and chose something common that seemed to work OK.

Because I'm just a contrary old you-know-what. o_O

The inventors were engineers and lithium lubricants as well as silicone ones were available when the tripod was made. As was petroleum jelly or Vaseline.

I've worked with all manner of engineers for 40+ years and almost none of them had any particular expertise with lubricants. I'm guessing the inventors were also machinists, and they often have a much better knowledge of lubricants than the average engineer. Still, if you look at the products from Nye, Superlube, DuPont and Santolube, we've come a very long way since WWII.

I've worked with all manner of engineers for 40+ years and almost none of them had any particular expertise with lubricants. I'm guessing the inventors were also machinists, and they often have a much better knowledge of lubricants than the average engineer. Still, if you look at the products from Nye, Superlube, DuPont and Santolube, we've come a very long way since WWII.

True, but don’t you have the Leitz one from the 70s?

True indeed. Seems like yesterday.It came from Calumet Photo and cost $42.50, a kings ransom to a high school student back then. I still have an order form where I was going to get the roll film back for the 4x5 from them, but never placed it, probably due to lack of funds. Hmmm... I think I have one somewhere, but haven't seen it in a few years. The future of large format sure looked different back then, than it turned out to be.

WOW A p*ssing match about lubricants!!! Not to mention one from the days when P.net was young and sinewy.

 

yippee ki-yay

 

Most lubricants and most lubricating are waaay overdone in any case.Scattered about I probably have a couple of dozen tripods, monopods, and such like, and I've never found the need to 'lube' any of them.

:rolleyes:

Edited April 30, 2019 by JDMvW

I am irrationally pleased with this tripod setup! Leg locks have been thoroughly cleaned and lightly lubed with petroleum (as Marchione intended), scratches have received the Sharpie treatment as my drill sergeants would have demanded, and I found a basic Arca-Swiss adapter that matches the head and overall aesthetic nicely while adding a bubble and modern quick-release functionality. I cut some arrows out of a red reflective sticker material to remind me which knob does what and was compelled for some reason to add the "Red Dot" that Leitz left off :-) Now I just need to figure out a carrying strap or get a tripod bag for it.

 

I like those arrow on the locks.

If I don't use mine for awhile, it gets confusing figuring which knob is which.

My copy is made by Leitz.

It occurred to me after the fact that "top knob=up" is easy enough to remember anyway once you notice that :)

I just acquired two of the older, original Marconi aluminum Tiltall tripods. Great pieces which I'm cleaning up. Question though, since these are unfinished aluminum, is there anything that can applied to the aluminum to keep one's hands from turning black?

No, that's part of the joy of owning them! If you want them shiny, use Mother's Mag Wheel Polish. You could coat them with something, but I'd be afraid of gumming it up. I keep a very light film of oil on the lower sections.

A limited use of Armaflex pipe insulation of the correct inner diameter, thin wall, self sealing might work and certainly would make carrying and handling more comfortable and warmer.