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Which Filter is Better- Old Tiffen UV or Polaroid Multicoat UV


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I cant afford a higher end UV filter at this time, so I have these two brands here with me currently. The lens its going on is a Nikon 20mm f1.8G. 77mm thread. I have an older Tiffen UV filter with the thick ring and what looks like a glass element. I also have a Polaroid Multicoated UV filter in this same thread. Which one of the two is the better filter? I know Tiffen is not really that great of a filter, but the price of the Polaroids, I'd think the same of them. The only difference I can see is the Polaroid is mentioned as multicoated and the ring isn't as wide. I have used the Tiffen on the lens and it does not vignette. I cant say the Tiffen is very good for flare. I know I can just not use a filter at all, which I can just remove it if I wanted, but I'd like to keep my new lens protected for the time being. Also since I still use film, UV comes in handy.
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Likely the distributor acquired the Polaroid name to enhance salability of a cheap generic filter. I would generally choose the multicoated filter over a single coated one any day, assuming the Polaroid is really multicoated of course. I have generally dispensed with using protective filters on most of my lenses and use lens hoods for both protection and reducing flare.

 

I have not used this filter, but if I was willing to pay $20, I would likely buy this Hoya filter: Hoya 77mm Ultraviolet UV © Haze Multi-Coated Filter

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Tiffen or Polaroid? That's a bit like asking which week-old cold burger you'd rather eat.

 

Neither have a high reputation. So +1 to Ken's suggestion to fork out for a recognised good make with decent multicoating.

 

But since you already own the filters in question, why not just run a few tests to see if they add any flare, distortion or loss of detail?

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I've found Tiffen filters to be of good quality, though most of the older ones are uncoated (except for the TMC series). Under typical conditions I've not found this to be an issue when used with an effective lens hood, but it could be with an ultrawide lens and shallow hood. So, at least single-coated might be a better choice.

 

The new Polaroid-brand filters I've seen are made in China, as are the current Vivitar filters (the old Japanese Vivitar filters are quite good, though). As suggested, you might consider Hoya or name-brand used filters. I bought a used Heliopan 77mm skylight filter for a mirror lens at a reasonable price. There are counterfeit B+W brand filters on the market; I've seen questionable ones being sold out of China, as well as fake-looking Kenko filters, so just something to watch for.

Edited by m42dave
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The better the coating, the less light is reflected, and the less flare the filter will produce. Compare them side by side for the amount of light reflected.

 

Nothing much will stand up to a B+W (Schneider) or Heliopan filter. The glass is cut from a block, ground parallel and polished. The multi-layer coating is over 99% efficient. Their rings are brass, which is stronger than aluminum, and resists galling and sticking in a metal filter ring.

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The better the coating, the less light is reflected, and the less flare the filter will produce. Compare them side by side for the amount of light reflected.

 

(snip)

 

I was about to write that, but it seems you got there first.

 

For darker colored filters, it might be harder to tell, but for UV or skylight or other

lightly colored filter it should be easy to tell.

 

Especially if you have a bright point source (sun or light bulb) behind you, the reflection

should be pretty easy to see.

 

Reminds me, a few years ago I got new glasses, with what my doctor told me

was the best antireflection coating. The coating was very good, but the residual

reflection, even though very small, was bright pink. (OK, magenta.).

 

The slightly less good coating has a dark green reflection, which I now have.

 

I also choose the lower dispersion lenses. No-one would use a camera lens with

the dispersion of some common lens materials used for glasses. (It is especially

noticeable with some LED sources, which have far red and far blue in their

spectrum.)

-- glen

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  • 1 year later...

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