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Minolta to Leica


royall_berndt

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You are right on. The two tricks to achieve best results are know your distances spot on, and shoot with an aperture like f/8 or smaller so DOF soaks up any misfocus. Lastly, before you load your first film, put your M3 on a tripod, use a locking cable release with the shutter set to B and a ground glass or equivalent at the film plane. Measure a subject distance from the film plane mark and focus the lens viewing the focus with a loupe on the ground glass (wide open aperture so you have a bright image). Now check that distance with the distance scale on the lens...if it is different, and it probably will be, you will need to make a reference chart or tape on distance scale to properly scale focus your Minolta lens. PITA, but unless everything miraculously matches focus scale with the actual focus on the ground glass at film plane, it is the only guarantee offocused images. Good luck...Minolta lenses had the distinct characteristic of uniform color characteristics across focal lengths, making them very desirable for color work, esp. transparencies.
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I'll have to scratch around for ground glass. Maybe B&H will have a piece. I have an MD Rokkor lens 24 mm f2.8 that I would like to carry around for occasional use. I actually needed it today when I was photographing the new extension to Penn Station. I can't afford a Leica 24mm, and wouldn't use it that often anyway.

 

When I was setting up my Minolta kit in the seventies, I bought that 24 plus a 50mm 1.7, and 135mm 3.5. The Rokkorfiles guy claims these are among the best for Minolta. I knew nothing about Minolta glass when I made the purchases. Just beginner's luck.

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24 mm f2.8 that I would like to carry around for occasional use.

"Just do it!"? - Looking at a DOF scale at hand, zone focusing should be no problem, especially when you (have to?) stop down for IQ. I wouldn't care about ground glass testing; rather wager 3 frames to look & see. <- Keyword; Did you figure out on what kind of tree your VF is going to grow? Quick checking I fear you could buy several promising X300s for that money...

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Other than professional video lenses, you should not place much faith in distant markings. Nor is ground glass much help unless you use a high-powered (5x or or magnifier.

 

One way to check is to use an inclined yardstick or tape measure, use the widest aperture setting, and set the focusing ring precisely to each number engraved on the focusing ring. Make a table showing the true distance (measured from the film plane) at each setting. It's easy to interpolate from that card where to set the focus for a particular distance.

 

On the other hand, 1st and 2nd generation Leica lenses aren't all that expensive, and use the rangefinder rather than a dope card. It would make better use of your time and film. If legacy lenses are your thing, buy a mirrorless camera and an appropriate mount adapter (as little as $30).Three lenses make a good rangefinder kit - 35, 50 and 90 mm.

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A Leica is just another light-tight box for holding a lens in front of some film.

In essence you are correct but there are quite a few that would vehemently object to "just another".o_O

 

Just out of interest, is that magnificient 24mm Minolta lens the very same Leica "rebranded" for their R-mount bodies. The one that has a poor reputation in the Leica community?

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Just out of interest, is that magnificient 24mm Minolta lens the very same Leica "rebranded" for their R-mount bodies. The one that has a poor reputation in the Leica community?

 

I'm curious about this as well. Considering the operational quirks of fusing a Minolta reflex lens with an M3, the Minolta lens would have to be outstanding to bother. Last time I checked, the very last of the Minolta 24 iterations (MD III) was considered the real giant killer, while the earlier Leitz/Minolta MCX/MD1 has not aged quite as well. The compact MDIII usually lands high up on the list of top 24mm for mirrorless adaptation.

Edited by orsetto
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