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Film Camera Week for January 8


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Greetings, all and welcome to our new thread, Post all the images you like from any film camera. I'll start with a few from my archives as I did not develop any new film this week. Hopefully I will have some darkroom time soon.

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pumpkins, Nikon FE-2 with 50mm f 2 AI, Plus-X

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rainbow arc, Konica Auto S3, Fuji Superia 200

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Lost Pizza interior, Olympus XA, Panatomic-X (camera on edge of table for slow shutter speed)

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road with mix of sun and clouds, Konica Auto S2

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Pokeman hunters, Fujica GS 645S, Tri-X

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Engineering building at Mississippi State, Minolta SRT 102, 135mm lens, Ilford HP5+

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pond just north of substation in West Point, Fujica GS 645S, Portra 160 VC

That's all for now. Looking forward to seeing everyone's images.

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Greetings, all and welcome to our new thread, Post all the images you like from any film camera. I'll start with a few from my archives as I did not develop any new film this week. Hopefully I will have some darkroom time soon.

[ATTACH=full]1371105[/ATTACH]

pumpkins, Nikon FE-2 with 50mm f 2 AI, Plus-X

[ATTACH=full]1371106[/ATTACH]

rainbow arc, Konica Auto S3, Fuji Superia 200

[ATTACH=full]1371109[/ATTACH]

Lost Pizza interior, Olympus XA, Panatomic-X (camera on edge of table for slow shutter speed)

[ATTACH=full]1371111[/ATTACH]

road with mix of sun and clouds, Konica Auto S2

[ATTACH=full]1371112[/ATTACH]

Pokeman hunters, Fujica GS 645S, Tri-X

[ATTACH=full]1371113[/ATTACH]

Engineering building at Mississippi State, Minolta SRT 102, 135mm lens, Ilford HP5+

[ATTACH=full]1371114[/ATTACH]

pond just north of substation in West Point, Fujica GS 645S, Portra 160 VC

That's all for now. Looking forward to seeing everyone's images.

 

Where did you get Panatomic X?

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Rifle Storage.

 

upload_2021-1-7_9-19-17.thumb.png.65a646ea6df3379da5d53e46bc53a1a4.png

 

Notes on Exposure and Development

 

All shots at f/22, with 1/2 second to 2 second exposure times.

 

I accidentally had my Pentax Spotmeter set to ASA 80 for the ASA 125 FP4+, so I should have been somewhat overexposed. I compensated by triangulating between Rick Drawbridge's instructions for FP4+ ASA 100 and Massive Dev Chart at ASA 64, ending up at 8 minutes and 73 degrees in a 1:1:100 mix of liquid pyro. Either film latitude or luck saved the day.

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bradleycloven said:

accidentally had my Pentax Spotmeter set to ASA 80 for the ASA 125 FP4+, so I should have been somewhat overexposed

 

Given the dark nature of your subject matter it was possibly a mistake in the right direction. Great shots! The latitude of FP4 and the full tonal values created by PMK is a combination that's hard to beat.

 

Here are a few from a Nikon F4S with a 28-105mm Nikkor f/3.5-4.5D lens. The film was Ilford FP4 Plus developed in PMK Pyro.

 

A Little Bit of Everything

 

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Just Your Average Waitress

 

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Bimmer

 

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Friends

 

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Still Life in a Garden

 

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Birmingham

 

Birmingham.thumb.jpg.622806170428c41cb21df8febd5501aa.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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bradleycloven said:

 

Given the dark nature of your subject matter it was possibly a mistake in the right direction. Great shots! The latitude of FP4 and the full tonal values created by PMK is a combination that's hard to beat.

 

 

How do I get a generally lighter effect like yours? I do get solid white highlights. And I love the gray scale of FP4+ and Pyro. But I'm getting consistently darker overall tone. A push in the right direction would be appreciated.

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bradleycloven said:

How do I get a generally lighter effect like yours? I do get solid white highlights. And I love the gray scale of FP4+ and Pyro. But I'm getting consistently darker overall tone. A push in the right direction would be appreciated.

 

The images suggest that there's possibly more shadow detail available than is currently displayed. I don't know what scanner software you're using, but I'd suggest a gamma alteration when you're setting up the scan might help. Or a shadow/highlight adjustment.

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royall_berndt said

Where did you get Panatomic X?

 

I won a 50' roll of bulk Panatomic-X (expired about 1982 or 1983). This film does not show age fog much (or at all) so I use it quite a bit. I've also shot some 36exp Panatomic-X with a 1978 expiration that also did well, The oldest I've shot expired in 1964 and still no fog. I processed in HC110 dilution B for the older rolls and am using dilution H for the bulk roll.

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bradleycloven said:

Thanks, Rick. I'll give it a whirl.

 

Brad, just out of curiosity I took the liberty of stealing one of your images and tweaking it a little, as I would have done for scanning. I may have taken it a bit far, but even in the screenshot there's quite a bit of detail that the original is lacking. Hope you don't mind...

 

40308258_Bradscopy.thumb.jpg.c9707acafe0ea10de1c6fd0446b445d2.jpg

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bradleycloven said:

 

Brad, just out of curiosity I took the liberty of stealing one of your images and tweaking it a little, as I would have done for scanning. I may have taken it a bit far, but even in the screenshot there's quite a bit of detail that the original is lacking. Hope you don't mind...

 

[ATTACH=full]1371249[/ATTACH]

Okay, Mr. D, give it up! What's the trick?!?

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bradcloven said:

Okay, Mr. D, give it up! What's the trick?!?

 

No real trickery, just some fairly basic image adjustment in PP. I just used Faststone Image Viewer 5.5 rather than Pshop, altering levels, curves, and contrast. Faststone is a handy little freeware ap that I use for simple adjustments. Obviously, if you'd made these adjustments at the scanning stage, with your 5x4 negs you'd have huge amounts of information to play around with.

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bradcloven said:

 

No real trickery, just some fairly basic image adjustment in PP. I just used Faststone Image Viewer 5.5 rather than Pshop, altering levels, curves, and contrast. Faststone is a handy little freeware ap that I use for simple adjustments. Obviously, if you'd made these adjustments at the scanning stage, with your 5x4 negs you'd have huge amounts of information to play around with.

Faststone is surprisingly capable given the price.

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Hi Brad. My turn to "steal & return". You have tons of shadow values in those negs, you are just printing tooooo dark. This "return" has a few simple brightness516263804_1635748_8379596c8bfc766fb6bb23748149a54crem.thumb.png.0bed3a6efc1adfc53df2d1580877fc09.png controls added to bring the whites up about 1 or 2 Zones. The shadows follow along. I always like to have a Zone 6 or 7 white value if possible in a print. My print has been dropped to 1k pixel, so it might be a bit "mushy". Aloha, Bill
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