Vincent Peri Posted December 5, 2020 Share Posted December 5, 2020 I have a Nikon FE2 with a balky shutter. All the shutter speeds except 4 sec and 8 sec work properly. When I set the shutter for 4 sec and shoot, it exposes properly. However, if I shoot another frame at 4 sec right afterwards, the shutter sounds like it's working correctly except that the shutter blades remain closed. If that happens, I have to change the shutter speed to M250 and back to 4 sec before the shutter will work properly for just the one photo again. The same thing happens when set to 8 sec. Has anyone here had the same problem? If so, what did it cost to get it fixed? I'd like to sell my FE2's, except for the one giving me shutter troubles... Thanks for any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hjoseph7 Posted December 5, 2020 Share Posted December 5, 2020 The camera probably needs a CLA. I paid about $200 for to get that done on mine, and the camera only cost me $150 and that was 10 years ago. There is somebody on eBay right now selling out-of-the-box replacement FE2 shutter speed dials, with the meter mechanism and all (sorry I don't have the link). You can try to Google it if you like. The reason why I know, is that I have a scratch on my beloved FE2's shutter speed dial that really annoys me. Otherwise the camera is in pristine condition. I have been looking for months for a replacement shutter speed dial, but they are extremely hard to find for the FE2. How I got this scratch, is that I tried to turn the shutter speed dial without pressing the release-button in the middle and my thumb-nail put a fairly deep scratch on it. The problem with your camera might NOT be related to the shutter dial, it might be something else... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Seaman Posted December 5, 2020 Share Posted December 5, 2020 Hmm. So it's working and usable except for the 4 and 8 second speeds? How often does the average person use those? Just sell it "as is" with a full declaration of the condition. The ones with the honeycomb shutter blades are more sought after than those with plain blades. You will never recoup the cost of repairs otherwise. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted December 5, 2020 Share Posted December 5, 2020 Sounds to me like a weak battery. It has to supply enough current to keep the shutter open, and can't do it. It then recovers after a little while to try again. They might go for around $100 used, so compare that to the cost of any repairs. As well as I understand it, the battery test for these cameras is, if it works the battery is good. It doesn't. Actually, I had my FE2 out last summer. On the 36th exposure of the roll it just stopped. As you, I set it to M250 and the shutter finished the cycle. Since it was on 36, I just rewound but then realized it was probably just the battery. -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMvW Posted December 5, 2020 Share Posted December 5, 2020 How often does the average person use those? +1, slow speeds in my experience with a rather large number of old cameras from the 1900s to recent, are the first to go. You can still buy (used at least) add-on timers, you can just time the exposure yourself, or you can forget about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Peri Posted December 5, 2020 Author Share Posted December 5, 2020 Sounds to me like a weak battery. ... I checked the battery compartment, and it seems to have a little tarnish on it. I'm going to get some vinegar from the pantry to clean that off. Hmm... well, that didn't work... now to google electrical contact cleaners LOL... Oh, I also found out the FE2's film counter has to be on exposure 1 for the battery check to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c_watson1 Posted December 5, 2020 Share Posted December 5, 2020 Shop for a new FE/ FE2. "Film camera repair," with few exceptions, is becoming an oxymoron. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Peri Posted December 5, 2020 Author Share Posted December 5, 2020 Aha! Success! I decided to let the vinegar soak on the FE2 battery terminal (on the battery cover contact, NOT the interior contact in the body!) for 5-10 minutes, and that cleaned up everything. Whew, dodged a bullet... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennisbrown Posted December 5, 2020 Share Posted December 5, 2020 Aha! Success! I decided to let the vinegar soak on the FE2 battery terminal (on the battery cover contact, NOT the interior contact in the body!) for 5-10 minutes, and that cleaned up everything. Whew, dodged a bullet... Glad it worked out for you. I've run across similar problems with several cameras. The battery cover is part of the circuit in many cameras. Whenever I get a "new" camera, the first thing done to it, is to thoroughly clean the battery compartment. There seems to be an invisible coating that develops over time. I use a fiberglass brush or pencil eraser in the compartment, and Scotch Brite pads on the threads of the compartment; then clean the cap thoroughly - threads and contacts. Small DC battery circuits often have weak grounds, and they can be real puzzlers at times. PS - On older cars, where the battery posts are exposed, you can have what appears to be a dead battery. While you can clean both posts, try cleaning the negative first, then attempt a restart. Not necessarily a loose connection, but a build up of film on the negative side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 +1, slow speeds in my experience with a rather large number of old cameras from the 1900s to recent, are the first to go. You can still buy (used at least) add-on timers, you can just time the exposure yourself, or you can forget about it. I believe that the FE2 is electrically timed, so nothing to wear out. I suspect, then, that the same problem will occur in B if you hold down the shutter release for 4 or 8 seconds. But yes, for mechanically timed slow shutter speeds they do tend to be first to go. When I get a used (old) camera, I check the shutter speeds from the longer times. I can count to 1 to see (hear) if it sounds right. Then increase stop by stop and see if the sound changes about right. For the highest speeds, look through from the back toward a light, and see if the amount of light coming through looks less by about the right amount. -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q.g._de_bakker Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 I believe that the FE2 is electrically timed, so nothing to wear out. Solder joints. The components themself. They get warm, cool down. Warm up again, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royall_berndt Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 I have a Nikon FE2 with a balky shutter. All the shutter speeds except 4 sec and 8 sec work properly. When I set the shutter for 4 sec and shoot, it exposes properly. However, if I shoot another frame at 4 sec right afterwards, the shutter sounds like it's working correctly except that the shutter blades remain closed. If that happens, I have to change the shutter speed to M250 and back to 4 sec before the shutter will work properly for just the one photo again. The same thing happens when set to 8 sec. Has anyone here had the same problem? If so, what did it cost to get it fixed? I'd like to sell my FE2's, except for the one giving me shutter troubles... Thanks for any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royall_berndt Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 My FM2 was doing fine when suddenly its shutter jammed. The repairman put in a new shutter rather than try to repair the original. This only cost a hundred bucks. I doubt you'd pay more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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