Breakthrough Filter Compatible with Lens Hood?

Hi. I am about to purchase a Nikon 500mm PF lens and will add a front filter for protection. Yes, I know of the differences of opinion on their use; not to dwell on that debate. Breakthrough Filters told me their X4 UV 95mm filter has a diameter of 98mm. I do not have a filter of that size to compare to see if that is a normal diameter. My question to you - has anyone used the BT 95mm X4 UV filter on the 500mm PF and noticed if it interferred with the lens hood? My other option is to use the Nikon NC filter. Thanks.

I don't know the answer. But remember that the filter size is the size of the thread, not the maximum diameter of the rim. 3 mm extra, relative to thread size, is normal.

Same goes for the mount on the lens. To take 95 mm thread, it has to be wider than 95 mm.

I have not used that lens.

 

I have used many Nikon Lenses. The AF-S NIKKOR 500mm f/5.6E PF ED VR uses a Bayonet Mount Lens Hood, being the HB-84.

 

As mentioned, "Filter Sizes' are stated by Thread Diameter, not the actual outside diameter of the Filter's Rim.

 

The connectivity of Nikon‘s Bayonet Mount Lens Hoods are typically on the OUTSIDE of the Lens, which renders the Hood free from interference with any Filter which is attached to the Lens.

 

If you look at the image of the lens here – LINK - you should see the Bayonet Mount on the outside of the Lens and you should be able to imagine the Filter screwing in and then simply sitting as an 'extension of' the lens's barrel, with the hood's inside diameter easily clearing both the Filter and the end of the Lens Barrel.

 

WW

Some additional information - typically the 'interference' a Lens Hood (especially on a Telephoto Lens) has with a Filter, is if it is a Polarizing Filter or a Variable Neutral Density Filter, i.e. a Filter in two parts requiring one to be rotated relative to the other - one can't easily get a pinky down onto the the Filter's Rim to rotate it.

 

The fix (usually DYI) is to cut a little window, or two, on at top and one at bottom in the Hood to allow a finger tip, or two access to rotate the outer section of the Filter.

 

WW

Q.G. and William M., Thanks for your helpful inputs, which answers my question. Good idea on the DYI 'fix'; I can stick my finger in the hood for my 24-70 to turn a polarizer, but doubt that method would work on the HB-84. WC

I am sure if you search for that DYI fix, you'll get several hits with pictures and videos. I haven't done it, I haven't had the need, though I always think I should do it for 'belts and braces safety'. A 'Dremel Tool' with the small circular saw is ideal to do the job - then a bit of emery paper to smooth.

 

Although I use big tele-lenses, rarely if ever have I used a Polarizing Filter, I can think of only once and it was for a winter indoor Swimming Meet where the Photographers were only allowed on one side of the pool; in the late afternoon we were shooting into the sun, blazing through glass windows. Essentially, once you have a Polarizing Filter set in position, provided you shoot from the same vantage point there is little need to change the Filter's setting, that's what I did.

 

Many folk don't like aborting their camera gear, it's one of those black and white things, like, as you mentioned 'protection filters' it is usually either a 'yes I am all in' or 'no way not for me'.

 

WW

Just for reference, the HB-74 used on the 16-80 DX lens (72 mm), which is rather square and bulky, does have enough clearance to turn a filter.

I have three lenses with 95 mm filter threads, two Sony PZ video zooms and a Sony 200-600, all with B+W UV filters to protect the front element. Like Nikon lenses, the filter attaches to the outside of the filter ring with a bayonet. Conventional filters like these are flush with the outside of the filter ring, and do not interfere with the lens hood. Polarizing and variable ND filters work with the 200-600 hood, but can't be operated with hoods on the PZ lenses because the hoods have a ridge which restricts the opening.

I have the Nikon 500mm f5.6 pf lens and I added a filter to the front of the lens to protect it. The filter I purchased is a B+W 95mm 010 UV haze 1x MRC.

 

It does not interfere with the lens hood that mounts to the front of the lens just behind the filter and the front of the lens.

 

I think it is important to use the lens hood all the time with this lens.

 

If I had a Circular polarizer filter on this lens, the lens hood would have to be removed to turn the CPL.

I'm surprised the 500mm PF doesn't have a drop in filter.

 

Maybe the PF's optical train makes it less than desirable?

 

Nikon's fast teles like the 200mm f2, 300mm f2.8, 400mm f2.8 and 500mm and 600mm f4s had the standard drop-in filter drawer AND an optional drop-in filter holder that allowed a 52mm* polariser to be rotated in situ with a little finger wheel.

 

*or 39mm on earlier lenses.

Edited November 23, 2020 by mike_halliwell

On my Nikon 500mm f5.6 pf, there is a memory recall button approximately where a drop in filter could possibly go. There probably is a reason why the pf design does not provide for a drop in filter.