Is Metz 32CT3 OK with Nikon F3HP ?

On line sources say that the Metz 32CT3 has triggering voltage of 22v but I measure it to be 12.9v. Wonder if it is safe to use on my F3HP. Don't want to fry any electronics in the camera. Anyone has experience with this combination? I was told the Metz has better effect and color than the Nikon SB16 which has lower triggering voltage.

I've used the Metz 45CL-4 for years with all my cameras, film & digital including a F3HP, F4, F5, no problems. I think the Nikon F series typically have a max trigger voltage much higher, in the 100 V range.

I think all Nikon are rated for up to 250V. However compared to the SB-16a the Metz doesn't support TTL and requires a hot shoe adapter.

Looks like the only source is the Kevin Bjorke`s one, which is certainly inconclusive. I have read many comments about this topic, always without a clear, proven answer.

Most if not all Speedlights are in the 5v range, it should mean something.

I have also used CT-4s on my F3 for years, mostly with the Metz adapter (very likely the voltage is reduced), but also thoughtlessly via cable, no issues, but I cannot tell if the circuit has been working stressed. I have used them too directly via cable and hot shoe adapter in other cameras, without problems (Mamiya 6 and other Nikons)

All my other flashes (including high power studio strobes) are in the 5v range.

Edited September 11, 2020 by jose_angel

Metz 45CT-4, I mean.

I was told the Metz has better effect and color than the Nikon SB16

 

Hmm.

 

Actually the measured trigger voltage depends critically on the instrument used. A multimeter with a relatively low internal resistance will depress the voltage and give a low reading. Why not look for one of the later model film flashguns like the SB24, 25 or 26? They are powerful and versatile, and are not too expensive as they don't support the ITTL system used by digital SLR's.

Hmm.

 

Actually the measured trigger voltage depends critically on the instrument used. A multimeter with a relatively low internal resistance will depress the voltage and give a low reading. Why not look for one of the later model film flashguns like the SB24, 25 or 26? They are powerful and versatile, and are not too expensive as they don't support the ITTL system used by digital SLR's.

 

And they also don't support TTL with the F3 unless you spend good money to buy the AS-17 adapter. The OP doesn't like the SB-16A because of color (how do we know the color of any Nikon newer flashes are better) but it's as powerful as all those you mentioned and since it can only be used on the F3 you can get it cheap.

Edited September 11, 2020 by BeBu Lamar

since it can only be used on the F3 you can get it cheap.

 

I paid next to nothing for my SB-16, and it does only fit the F3.

 

With that said, I could have sworn there was a standard hotshoe available that would fit the SB-16. Never really hunted for it since the SB800 does TTL with all hotshoe TTL Nikons, film and digital, including the F3 if you buy the AS-17(which I don't have) plus always has AA mode for anything older. It's kind of a do everything flash for me.

I paid next to nothing for my SB-16, and it does only fit the F3.

 

With that said, I could have sworn there was a standard hotshoe available that would fit the SB-16. Never really hunted for it since the SB800 does TTL with all hotshoe TTL Nikons, film and digital, including the F3 if you buy the AS-17(which I don't have) plus always has AA mode for anything older. It's kind of a do everything flash for me.

The AS-8 adapter allows hot shoe use of the SB16. Got both adapters when I bought my SB-16.

I paid next to nothing for my SB-16, and it does only fit the F3.

 

With that said, I could have sworn there was a standard hotshoe available that would fit the SB-16. Never really hunted for it since the SB800 does TTL with all hotshoe TTL Nikons, film and digital, including the F3 if you buy the AS-17(which I don't have) plus always has AA mode for anything older. It's kind of a do everything flash for me.

 

I have both feet for the SB-16. But I don't really like the SB-16 except to use it on the F3. I have 2 SB-16 and 3 feet. 2 for the F3 and 1 for the standard hot shoe.

I have both feet for the SB-16. But I don't really like the SB-16 except to use it on the F3. I have 2 SB-16 and 3 feet. 2 for the F3 and 1 for the standard hot shoe.

 

Yeah, to be honest I don't have much use for the SB-16 either.

 

Somewhere along the way, I picked up a Vivitar shoe for the F3. It does TTL with a couple of specific models of Vivitar flash, but even absent those it still works like a plain flash shoe. It's a nice piece with a locking collar just like the F3 shoe on my SB-16, so it works at least to put an uncoupled flash on.

The flash trigger voltage is pretty irrelevant with an F3 since the flash triggering switch is purely mechanical, consisting of two phosphor-bronze contact strips.

 

The flash trigger switch is part of the modular shutter assembly and completely separate from the crude electronic circuitry of the camera. The only coupling between the metering and timing electronics and the shutter module is via the second curtain release solenoid.

 

Even if the flash was triggered via a transistor, triac, thyristor or such device, a voltage below 24 volts is hardly likely to cause any harm.

 

So, as long as only the centre triggering contact of the 'hotshoe' is connected, or the P-C socket is used for triggering, almost any old portable flash unit can be used. Even pre-1980s ones that can have a trigger voltage in the region of 360 volts!

Edited September 12, 2020 by rodeo_joe|1

Thanks to everyone for the replies. They are most informative and useful. I guess in short, I can use the Metz on the F3HP without problems. I do have other Nikon Speedlights but I was intrigued by the claim that Metz has better colors and effects. I think I will shoot a roll of film to see if I see any differences.

I do have other Nikon Speedlights but I was intrigued by the claim that Metz has better colors and effects.

I just had a look at that particular Metz 32 CT-3 model, and it looks like a piece of cheap cr*p to me. Slider settings with only 3 auto aperture choices? Almost any Nikon speedlight will beat that.

 

I do have a Metz 32 MZ something or other, which is quite well made and offers a good range of manual settings. It also has a yellowish Fresnel to lower its CT slightly, but is the colour any better than one of my Nikon speedlights? Not really. And it's certainly not as powerful as an SB-24, 25 or 28.

Edited September 13, 2020 by rodeo_joe|1

The Metz 32 CT-3 flash units are not cheap crap. Quite capable and well made products. Same as the larger 45 CT series, but on-camera instead of handle mount. Limited number of auto settings,yes, when that automation is not TTL. Full range when using TTL-control.

It's an older model than the MZ, before LCD panels etc. But no worse.

 

The greater worry than colour with all of these small size flash units is their harsh light (which those white transluscent tubs you can put in front of them cannot change appreciably).

Edited September 13, 2020 by q.g._de_bakker

Same as the larger 45 CT series, but on-camera...

Not the same build quality at all. I have several 45CT series hammerheads, and they look nothing like that 32 CT-3, with its gaping plastic seams, stuck-on indicator panel and crude slider-switch controls. Almost indistinguishable from what Hanimex, Chinon and many other cheap brands were selling at that time.

 

Open up a Metz of that era and the quality of its electronic circuitry is nothing special either.

 

Things have moved on, and you can get much better, more powerful, safer and more efficient flashes for about the same amount of money. From being just a decade or so younger in manufacture and design.

Edited September 14, 2020 by rodeo_joe|1

Well, RJ, our opinions differ once again.

I have used these thingies fir many decades, and can't fault the 32 CT. Have had more problems with the 45 and 60 series (yet few. The 60 series, by the way, are, i think, quite ridiculous. For not even one stop more you get a unit that is terrible to use in the field.)

 

But anyway, i only use small flash units if absolutely unavoidable. Hate them.

You couldn't avoid them when limited to film of ISO 400 max. if you valued quality. Nowadays no such limit, such that you could and should wonder what is worse, increased noise or the lighting produced by a small on camera flash.

I have never used my SB 800s. Can't imagine anymore why i thought i needed some in the first place.

 

And that, as i mentioned before, is what i think would cause more concern than any build quality or light colour differences between perfectly good Metz and ditto Nikon units.

Well, RJ, our opinions differ once again.

I have used these thingies fir many decades, and can't fault the 32 CT. Have had more problems with the 45 and 60 series (yet few. The 60 series, by the way, are, i think, quite ridiculous. For not even one stop more you get a unit that is terrible to use in the field.)

 

But anyway, i only use small flash units if absolutely unavoidable. Hate them.

You couldn't avoid them when limited to film of ISO 400 max. if you valued quality. Nowadays no such limit, such that you could and should wonder what is worse, increased noise or the lighting produced by a small on camera flash.

I have never used my SB 800s. Can't imagine anymore why i thought i needed some in the first place.

 

And that, as i mentioned before, is what i think would cause more concern than any build quality or light colour differences between perfectly good Metz and ditto Nikon units.

 

 

Do you shoot slide films? Otherwise B&W the color has almost no effect. With color negative or digital any slight color variations you should be able to correct.

If you like Metz shoe flashes, I find the 36CT3 to be one of the best flashes of the era.

Do you shoot slide films? Otherwise B&W the color has almost no effect. With color negative or digital any slight color variations you should be able to correct.

I did, yes. Mainly slides, for quite a while.

Colour matters, yes. It is a lot of work correcting colour in colour negative and slide images alike, since these small units are (or were) not used as the only source of light, but to add light in (too) low light situations. You'd always end up with mixed lighting situations, in which you could either correct for the flash lit bit (which you almost always did, because those were the bits you wanted to get on film) or the differently coloured shadows. Never a match. Always a cast somewhere.

 

So next to what i said about the harsh light with rapid drop off into the distance, yet another reason why i do not like using these things at all.

 

That colour problem is still there with digital capture. The only way to avoid it is to use the small flash unit as the only light source.

what I remember the F3´s hotshoe isn´t made to take flashes^^

But anyway, i only use small flash units if absolutely unavoidable. Hate them. ....... what is worse, increased noise or the lighting produced by a small on camera flash.

Well, actually I totally agree about the 'quality' (not!) of on-camera direct flash. However, axial flash is near-perfect as a fill light in harsh daylight. Plus there's this thing called 'bouncing' when indoor on-camera flash is a necessity.

 

Small 'speedlight' flashes totally useless? Try telling that to the strobist fraternity! Of whom I now count myself a member.

 

Modern battery-powered flashes are powerful enough, and digital cameras sensitive enough, that almost any modifier can be used with them. The light got from a small speedlight in a brolly or softbox can be made quite beautiful, and indistinguishable from a cumbersome 400 joule and mains-bound studio flash.

 

So let's not hark back to what had to be done when film was the only option. Times have changed, and so has flash design and quality. My first encounter with a modern-era (post ~1990) Nikon speedlight was a revelation. Powerful, quick to recycle, plenty of manual power and auto-aperture options and with a build quality and ergonomic that left Metz 45 series hammerheads in the dust.

 

These days, an SB-24, 25, etc. speedlight can be had for comparative peanuts. So why would anyone even look at an inefficient and decidedly dated-looking old 32 CT-3 or the like?

 

I've lived through the days of getting only 20 or so full-power flashes before needing a battery change, and having to wait 15 seconds for a flash to recycle. Only to find the result underexposed because the stated Guide Number was pure fantasy. Do I yearn for a return to those days? Abso-frigging-lutely not!:eek:

Edited September 15, 2020 by rodeo_joe|1

what I remember the F3´s hotshoe isn´t made to take flashes^^

There was an adapter designed to fit over the flash contacts to use hot shoe flashes. I have a couple for my F3's. There were also coiled cables to use when you wanted to use the F3 with off-camera flash.