what is Durst Printo system for?

I was just given several (4-5) boxes of Durst Printo stuff. (Actually, I should

look inside the boxes to make sure that is what is really in there).

 

I am not sure what it's for. I assumed color processing or prints, and

narrow-mindedly decided I don't intend to do that...I fear finding color paper

may be harder than b/w at some point in the future.

 

Today I read that the system may be usable for b/w processing.

 

Then I had the thought...can it be used for C41 or E6 film processing? That is

something I see myself possibly wanting to do.

 

I think there is one Therm unit and three Intro units. I'm not sure if the Intro

is a Tank, or if I also have a 5th box that says Tank.

 

I am not being open-minded enough about the capabilities, so any help would be

appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

Murray

Its for making prints, hence the name.

It is usable for B&W but theres not much point. You can do that under safelights, although, if you want to not be bothered with agitating chemicals i guess thats a reason to use it.

It cannot be used for film. Get a Jobo for that.

Just a thought - The college where I went to use the darkroom had a processing machine (an Ilford 2150) for B&W and it was great as it removed any variables from the print making, leaving just the enlarging, exposure etc to get right. (I think there should be a significant pause after that statement!) :-)

 

PS your chemicals would probabhly last a bit longer out as well.

Thank you all.

Ha...been 12 years, so I will not ask the same question.

 

Time to clean the garage. Haven't made use of it in the last 12 years...probably won't in the next 12.

 

:)

The Durst Printo system was specifically designed to process colour paper prints using RA-4 chemistry. It replaced the previous amateur/semi-pro Durst roller-processors which couldn't cope with the increased temperature and throughput speed of RA-4.

 

A Printo system could be used for automatic processing of B&W resin-coated photographic paper. Leaving your hands dry and free to concentrate on the enlarger exposure.

 

(snip)

 

I am not sure what it's for. I assumed color processing or prints, and

narrow-mindedly decided I don't intend to do that...I fear finding color paper

may be harder than b/w at some point in the future.

 

Kodak stopped making black and white paper some years ago, but I

believe still makes color paper. Though everyone I know (that is labs,

not people) uses Crystal Archive.

 

Most color paper is used in laser scan digital printers, but it is supposed

to work just fine the old fashioned way, too.

 

And Ilford, I believe, still makes black and white paper, but not color paper.

As I understand it, there are digital printers for black and white paper,

but not so common. Easier to make black and white prints on color paper.

I had a Durst Printo and used it exclusively for Ilfochrome. A beautifully and ingeniously designed processor (Paper only) for color prints; no pumps (and no pump failures), reliable chemistry heating system, a gear system for moving the print from one bath to the next, very effective squeegee rollers to prevent chemistry carry-over, etc., etc. I wax poetic just thinking about it :)

About two years ago, when I finally stpped printing Ilfochrome, I sold it for a fraction of the original cost.

You can still use it for RA-4 prints however an ACP processor (Thermaphot 2-bath) is then cheaper and easier to become.

however an ACP processor (Thermaphot 2-bath) is then cheaper and easier to become.

What?

How is £1400 for a little processor that'll only do 10"x8" prints cheaper than a used Printo system that can make 16"x12" prints?

 

Easier to come by? Possibly, but no way cheaper or easier to use.

What?

How is £1400 for a little processor that'll only do 10"x8" prints cheaper than a used Printo system that can make 16"x12" prints?

 

Easier to come by? Possibly, but no way cheaper or easier to use.

 

Durst Printo Darkroom Paper Processor RA4 RARE | eBay

 

$16 (plus $76 shipping to US)

 

sold already

I still have my Durst Printo (7 modules in all) and plan to use it once I get my darkroom up. You really don't need all those modules 2 modules will do for B&W and Color. You might want to use a 3rd module which I think is called the INTRO module which is used to turn ON/OFF the unit and also allows you to insert paper into the machine without a lot of fiddling around in the dark.

 

For a more fancy work flow you might want to add a washing module and/or a drying module, but this is not necessary especially if you don't have a lot of room. The reason why you can develop B&W and even color in just 2 steps, is that the first module the one with the Developer squeezes most of the developer from the paper before guiding it to the second module with the Fixer, so there is no need for a Stop Bath step. Unfortunately, Durst does not manufacture these units anymore and they are extremely hard to find on the Used market. So if something like the Rollers wear out(which they most certainly do), or something else breaks down you can kiss that baby good-bye.

Edited August 30, 2020 by hjoseph7

The Durst Printo was also made by Thermaphot. 10 years ago I bought my Jobo CPA-2 for free. I ordered a new elevator and a new re-circulation pump which I found at that time already expensive for Eur. 300. However now the prices for Jobo spare parts are insane. A Thermaphot ACP-252, 25cm wide, 2-bath I bought new in 1999 for DM 2100 which is now approx. Eur. 1050. I have used it for RA-4 but also for B&W (PE/RC only). Sometimes you see then for a few hundred euro or even less. The question is then how good the rollers still are. Spare parts are very difficult to become now.

The Thermaphot 302 (30cm/12" wide) would be the nearest equivalent to a 2 unit Printo system.

 

It appears that it's no longer available new, but used Thermaphot prices seem much higher than those for any Printo. When they come up at all.

Spare parts are very difficult to become now.

A lot of parts should be 3D printable, or substitutable by aquarium pumps and off-the-shelf synchronous motors, etc.

 

I had to lathe turn several new rollers for an old Durst RCP20 that I bought about 25 years ago.

Edited September 4, 2020 by rodeo_joe|1

The Durst Printo was also made by Thermaphot. 10 years ago I bought my Jobo CPA-2 for free. I ordered a new elevator and a new re-circulation pump which I found at that time already expensive for Eur. 300. However now the prices for Jobo spare parts are insane. A Thermaphot ACP-252, 25cm wide, 2-bath I bought new in 1999 for DM 2100 which is now approx. Eur. 1050. I have used it for RA-4 but also for B&W (PE/RC only). Sometimes you see then for a few hundred euro or even less. The question is then how good the rollers still are. Spare parts are very difficult to become now.

 

Tell you the truth, I found and still find the prices for Jobo, Thermaphot and Durst Printo products ridiculously outrageous since they are 90% Plastic . In my opinion, it's one of the biggest rip-offs the world has ever seen, since there are plenty of cheaper alternatives on the market if you are not impressed by name-brands, "German Engineering" and/or are willing to use a little elbow grease.

 

I got my Jobo CPE2 for peanuts, $25 when I went into the local photography retailer to buy some B&W filters and this was a shelf model ! This is when they where trying to clear out most of their legacy stuff(film), to bring in the new Digital.

 

I still have my CPE-2 plus tanks, but I rarely use it because I rather develop my film by hand the old fashioned way. Maybe one day I will find use for it, but since I rarely shoot film any more it mostly sits there collecting dust. Take a look at these prices for the CPE2 now called the CPE3:

 

Jobo CPE-3 Colorprocessor Kit

 

Jobo Lift for CPE-2 Plus Processor

Yes Jobo stuff is expensive, but then the price of almost anything film-related is inflated out of all proportion lately. In comparison with some of the 'Kickstarter' processors, a used CPE-2 looks like an absolute bargain.

 

Anyone willing to waste spend 3 or 4 hundred on an ancient 35mm camera obviously isn't too short of money - common sense maybe, but not money.

 

My used CPE-2 needed some de-rusting and adjustment when I bought it several years ago. It quickly repaid itself in C-41 and 5x4 sheet film processing, which it does superbly and with minimum fuss and use of chemicals.

 

Jobo's spirals are also easier to load than the competition (i.e. Paterson) - aside from SS spirals.

 

So 'overpriced' is entirely relative.

Better made then a Jobo:

 

http://shop.fotohuisrovo.nl/product_info.php?cPath=44&products_id=565&language=en

Less space but for B&W only:

 

http://shop.fotohuisrovo.nl/product_info.php?cPath=44&products_id=453&language=en

Daylight film processor: ars-imago LAB-BOX + 2 Modules

Here is another cheaper alternative: The °Cs "Temperature Control System"

I finally opened the boxes today!

 

One Energy, two Intro's, one Tank (in a wrong box).

 

The Intro's have manuals and sealed plastic bags with a few red gears and a metal plate). The power cords have broken rubber bands, but one cord holds its folded shape. I suspect they never got used.

 

The Tank module in an Intro box had a mouse nest and some gnawing on the clear rubber tube which is taped in place. Broken rubber band with that cord also. No manual, but other than the evidence of former rodent residence, it looks clean (as in no chemical stains/residue). There is a single red gear in a sealed plastic bag with that module.

 

The Energy module just has some dust on the box. If the heating elements show signs of 'cooking' with use, I'd assume little if any usage. At the top of the element there is some orange/yellow material that looks more like electrical insulating varnish to me than residue...or I'm wrong.

 

Anyway, the point of this update is that I would like to inquire which rollers are notorious for sticking together. The Intro modules seem to have free-rolling light grey rollers. The Tank module has harder light grey rollers and softer black rollers. The gearing is pretty high (as far as my fingers are concerned) so I cannot tell whether the gears should make the 'helix' rotate continuously in the same direction, or if it oscillates back & forth over a range of motion. It rolls so far and seems to want to stop (again, based on resistance to finger rotation). If the rollers were stuck together, I would think I could not achieve a portion of a rotation of the rollers, or the soft material would pull off as some describe on the 'web.

 

I would like to learn how to assess the condition of the rollers or any other 'weak link' areas...to determine if these are in questionable or pristine condition. I do not anticipate using them but prefer to identify the physical condition as accurately as possible if I offer them for sale somewhere/somehow. I would rather honestly identify any problems than use the 'I don't know anything about this' excuse.

 

I'm on a roll now...it won't be another 11 months for my response!

 

Thank you

 

Murray

Edited June 12, 2021 by murrayatuptown

Unless you are going to be printing on a daily basis, the rollers should last you quite a while. You just have to remember to clean them thoroughly after each use, or they will start sticking together. Once that happens, there is a chance that chunks of the roller material might start tearing apart during operation. Depending on the tears, this would render the rollers and the machine inoperable. This has not happened to me (so far), but my guess is that other than paper jams, the processing liquid would not pass smoothly over the paper creating gaps in your processed images.

 

The red gear is probably a replacement, or it could also be a gear to change the speed of the processor to allow for different processes such as B&W, or E6. I'm not sure ?

 

Tell you the truth, I'm not sure what tube you are talking about that is taped to the Intro Module ? My Intro-module contains no tube since its only meant to introduce DRY paper into the other "Energy" modules (Developer, Stop, Fix). My other modules do have a tube attached to them which is meant to easily drain the liquid after use.

 

I'm not sure what that orange/yellow material that looks like insulating varnish is ? None of my Thermo-Pots have them and I have 4 of them ! It could be somebody operated the Energy/Thermo-Pots without any liquid and they show signs of burning . Hope I'm wrong !!

 

I'm pretty paranoid about my rollers(due to the fact that you can't get replacements anymore), so after each use, I wash them with plain dish washing cleaner and running water. I guess there are better cleaners than that out there, but I want to avoid any harsh chemicals that might aggravate the situation. Some people place a small piece of paper, or cardboard between the rollers to keep them apart during storage and/or between runs. I have not found this necessary yet.

 

Occasionally, I do run plain clean water through the modules for an about an hour or two, just to remove any lingering residue. The rollers you really have to worry about are the ones that actually squeeze the chemicals from the paper while the processor is in motion. I think those are lighter in color and seem to be made from another(softer) material than the black guide rollers, but I would think the guide-rollers are secondarily as important.

 

One of the biggest problems you might run into, is trying to get 2 or more modules together. I would start by trying to attach the Intro module to a single Energy Module with Thermo-pot. Then turn ON the switch, but please don't let the processor run like that without any liquids for too long, or you might cause irreversible damage to the unit.

 

Once you have that going, try to attach a second Energy module to the first one, then a third Energy module to the second etc, making sure that all modules are in sync and working together in unison. This may sound easy, but due to the plastic on the Energy modules warping due to heat or old age, they might not fit exactly right. **The modules have to fit exactly right in order for the processing to work seamlessly without any paper jams, or other issues.

 

Also just like darkroom trays, I would recommend marking each module (Developer, Stop, Fixer, Bath) and using each module for that sole purpose. This will avoid contamination issues which can be very hard to detect.

 

Once everything is working as it should, then you can basically relax and not have to worry except for putting paper into the machine. This is an extremely quiet and smooth processor which makes it a joy to use ! The worst thing you can do however, is to let it sit there for days with processing liquids still inside. Most of us hate clean up, but with this processor, given that there are not many parts available, clean up is a must.

Edited June 14, 2021 by hjoseph7

Indeed! Cleaning the rollers after use is essential. Since any chemicals allowed to dry on them will stick the rollers together, and possibly eat into the rubber (neoprene?) if left for a length of time.

 

Any rubber tubing is for drainage of the chemicals after use. However this assumes you can elevate the processor in some convenient manner. You might want to get hold of a cheap plastic-bodied 'water feature' or aquarium pump and use that for emptying the tanks instead.

When I still had a darkroom, I used to do this sort of thing. No More.

 

Photoshop and a good printer are so much easier, tho' the topic does bring back a sort of photo-nostalgia.