120 film loading problems

At first I had trouble getting 120 started and I ended up modifying one of the reels so I could slide a credit card through the outermost spirals near the grippy balls.

 

Hmm... are grippy balls any-

thing like buckyballs...?

http://bayouline.com/o2.gif

Certainly was a common enough problem with me too , however I started cleaning the reels in a soapy water bath and used a

toothbrush on the balls as well as the grooves and it almost never happens anymore . That's when I feel wealthy and don't mind

using the extra 100cc of developing fluid in the Patterson tanks ( it's my Scottish heritage coming out :) ) . Peter

I was able to pick up a Nikor 120 tank/reel looks in real good shape, so now its practice practice practice! Since I have no trouble with the 35 Paterson I will just go with the SS 120 for now. Thanks for all the input

FWIW, I have never used center clips. On my Hewes 35mm reels, I do use the "spikes" to hook sprocket holes, but on 120 I've found that the clips tend to distort the film and make rolling it more difficult. I just tuck the end into the center, and go from there.

 

(snip)

 

I have never used clips on 35mm, and I think my reels don't have them.

 

My first try with 120 film in a SS reel, not using the clip, it tried to move into the center,

enough to reach the first (or last) frame. (I forget if I load beginning or end first.)

 

After that I use the clip, and don't have problems.

 

I also have a plastic reel that has a sharp point in the center. For that, you poke the

point through the film, then wind on in the same way as SS reels. (I believe that

one is FR.) I bought that for 116, but now have a SS 116 reel (and tank).

but I still have occasional trouble and I believe it's because the balls sometimes stick.

Jobo reels have no balls.... and that didn't come out quite right. Did it?

 

Regardless. Jobo tanks have two staggered teeth at the entrance to the spiral, which is more consistent. They also have slight cutouts in the plastic groove that let you grip the top and bottom edge of the film with your fingers. By alternating your grip on the edge of the film while rotating the spiral, you can ratchet the film inwards very easily. Difficult to explain, but easy to do.

 

Try Jobo. You'll never go back to Paterson; and it pains me to say that, since Jobo gear is a bit overpriced.

I was having trouble loading 120 onto a Patterson reel until I loaded it from the end of the roll first, using the tape as a 'stabilizer'. I was a little worried about the last frame (#16 as I'm using a Pentax 645) but it came out fine. Or, you could just put a piece of masking tape on the leading edge of the film, but not sure if masking tape would react with developer/fixer.

I always used masking tape to hold 35mm film onto the spool, and I am sure some has gone into the developer without problems.

 

For 120, I usually find more unused film on the end than the beginning, but either one should work.

Masking tape is pretty inert in developer. Nothing to dissolve really, and it's similar to the tape used to hold 35mm film to its spool, and that used to hold 120 film to the backing paper.

 

It's almost impossible to unstick those tapes from the film without damaging the film, so I must have had yards of the stuff go through my developing over the years. It usually just gets cut off after processing.

I always used masking tape to hold 35mm film onto the spool

Why?

All plastic spools have some way of preventing the film working its way back out, and stainless reels have either a clip or prongs to hold the film in place.

Masking tape is pretty inert in developer. Nothing to dissolve really, and it's similar to the tape used to hold 35mm film to its spool, and that used to hold 120 film to the backing paper.

 

It's almost impossible to unstick those tapes from the film without damaging the film, so I must have had yards of the stuff go through my developing over the years. It usually just gets cut off after processing.

 

Why?

All plastic spools have some way of preventing the film working its way back out, and stainless reels have either a clip or prongs to hold the film in place.

 

No, not that spool. The one in the cassette. But it usually stays onto the end of the film.

 

I am not sure what kind of tape commercially spooled 35mm or 120 uses to hold on.

I think it is tougher than usual masking tape.

No, not that spool. The one in the cassette.

Oh right!

I used to bulk-load a lot of cassettes using masking tape too, but the nicest ones were those designed to fit in a Nikon F2. They have a toothed slot in the spool to grip the film and are automatically opened and closed by operating the back-lock on the camera. Very neat.

Just a update, I got the SS for 120 been working with it, still a little tricky for me to get it started but once I do I have no trouble getting it on the reel, never had any trouble with 35 on the plastic reels just the 120, but the last few times I made sure it was bone dry and went on smooth but Im going to master the 120 SS even if they have to put it in my coffin when I die! Lol

Soldier on Mark, soldier on!

 

The trick with SS reels and 120 is to get the film centred properly in the reel to start with. Once it's pointing the right way you only have to rotate the reel and the film will pop right in.

120 reels have big wire, so it is pretty hard to get wrong.

 

You should be able to feel it go off track.

 

Are you using the loading guide? When I first learned about Nikor tanks from my

grandfather, he explained that I should learn with the loading guide, but quickly learn

to do without.

 

With the loading guide, it is harder to feel when the film goes the wrong way.

Just a update, I got the SS for 120 been working with it, still a little tricky for me to get it started but once I do I have no trouble getting it on the reel, never had any trouble with 35 on the plastic reels just the 120, but the last few times I made sure it was bone dry and went on smooth but Im going to master the 120 SS even if they have to put it in my coffin when I die! Lol

All-right - now I have to spend money again. I have happily been using Paterson for 35mm for for almost 40 years, but for 120 they drive me crazy - although I eventually succeed. This thread inspired me to order a pair of used Hewes 120 reels and a tank - I don't hope the learning curve is too steep.

Niels,

 

Like you I have successfully used Paterson reels for 35mm for over 40 years. In recent years I have taken up shooting 120 and the Patterson reels have been problematic so I bought a couple of Hewes reels and haven't looked back since.

 

Practice with a sacrificial 120 film with the Hewes reel. Note how the film goes under the spring loaded clip. As long as the film is square and even when it is held by the clip the film will roll onto the reel easily.

 

Do this a few times to develop the 'muscle memory' for how the film should be started on the reel. Feel for the edge of the film under the spring clip.

 

I don't develop 120 very often and if there has been a bit of a time gap between processing then I have a quick practice with my sacrificial film before loading the 'live' film in a changing bag. (Also get used to the feel of the SS reel to ensure correct orientation before attempting to feed the film into it.)

With the big wire, 120 reels should be easier than 35mm or 220.

 

Either way, you have to get the right amount of curl to get it to go in.

 

If you have one, you might use the film guide the first few times.

After that, the feel of the film helps detect when it goes in wrong.