Nikon Slide system

Attached to the AF Micro-Nikkor 60mm f/2.8D lens with the BR-5 Ring or the Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/2.8 lens, this adapter enables duplication of 35mm film.

 

 

Attaching the ES-1 to the Micro-NIKKOR 55mm f/2.8 lens and extension tubes, you can copy 35mm slides.

 

from the es-1 nikon webpage.

 

The ES-2 nikon webpage says its only usable with 2 nikon cameras, and mentions the same lenses as teh es-1 page.

 

 

 

Looking through this site, i have been seeing people using other nikon macro lenses, 40 , 50, and 55 mm focal length and extension tubes. I would just like to see the cheapest possible way to connect one to my D7500.

 

Is it possible to find crappy but usable macro lenses from other companies that would work with the system, or does it depend upon some mythical nikon nikor technology?

Can't speak to the ES 2, but have successfully used the ES 1 on two different Nikon full frame digital cameras using an old pre AI Micro Nikkor 55mm 3.5. slight cropping is necessary to remove a small portion of the slide mount, but results are very satisfactory. That lens, or even the AI model can be had very affordably. Note - the ES 1 cannot be used with negatives without a good deal of trouble and risk of damage to them. Have not tried the 55 / ES 1 combo on my 7200 with the conversion factor, you would loose some portion of the image. Will have to give it a try. Edited July 16, 2020 by Sandy Vongries

The ES-x slide duplicators will work with any Nikon camera. They attach to the front of the lens, and are basically an extension tube with a slide/filmholder on the end, plus a (poor) light diffuser at the front. As such, they are grossly overpriced IMO.

 

The Macro lens used and camera format (full-frame or DX) will dictate the distance that the slide/film holder needs to be from the front of the lens. A macro lens outside of the 40 to 60mm focal-length range probably can't be accommodated by the supplied extension adjustment. However, there are Nikon accessory tubes available (K-rings) that can be used to increase that extension. This obviously adds to the already high cost of the ES system.

 

The only reason that Nikon recommend only two cameras, is that those cameras have a built-in facility for inverting negatives to a positive image. How well they do that with colour negatives I don't know.

 

If you use another camera, then the inversion and any colour correction has to be done by other software.

 

Alternatively, there are similar off-brand devices available:

These are better made IMO and have a telescoping adjustment for the extension. IIRC I paid £10 UK for the one shown above; bought used, in box.

 

I think there are similar items for sale on eBay, but I haven't checked lately.

 

Personally, I use this beast (a Bowens Illumitran) for digitising film:

It only cost me £50, but required quite a lot of modification, plus the addition of a good-quality enlarging lens.

Cool, Does it come with a theremin to play while your scanning?

Cool, Does it come with a theremin to play while your scanning?

No. But it's British made, so I just stand to attention and hum the National Anthem while using it.

I've been playing with it lately using my PB4 bellows with the copy attachment. I generally use a 55mm lens, primarily just to keep the working range reasonable.

I am obliged, for the recod, to repeat once again my humble opinion that the reason there are so many of these "slide copier attachments" available in original box on eBay is that people tried them once or twice and then it went into the closet....

 

rodeo_joe has the right of it. At the very least a copy stand and macro lens with a light source is much better -- and I think that if you are doing more than a few copies, a real film scanner like the Nikon Super Coolscan 9000. Unfortunately these are only available used at a high price.

I am obliged, for the recod, to repeat once again my humble opinion that the reason there are so many of these "slide copier attachments" available in original box on eBay is that people tried them once or twice and then it went into the closet....

 

rodeo_joe has the right of it. At the very least a copy stand and macro lens with a light source is much better -- and I think that if you are doing more than a few copies, a real film scanner like the Nikon Super Coolscan 9000. Unfortunately these are only available used at a high price.

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These systems are wonderful, but rather slow. Using the ES 1 even with the old pre AI 55mm Macro on any of my Nikons, the process is fast and simple. Insert a slide, point at the small daylight illuminated slide sorter panel and snap. Three slides in a minute with practice. Results excellent. This is faster than my Canoscan 9000 which will scan four slides in the time it takes to load four in the spare slide holder. A lot faster and less awkward than my Nikon bellows / slide copier attachment on a tripod. I don 't recall the Coolscans being particularly fast either, and do recall the occasional jam. Sometimes, simple is good. Except for negative strips, the ES 1 works a treat. If I can do something quickly and easily as opposed to slowly and get identical results, I'm all on board.

im just trying to figure out the CHEAPEST and EASIEST way.... the lenses Nikon mentions in the product descriptions are the nice 400$+ stuff, while you guys use alot of other lens options.

 

SO what would be the cheapest set up guys, i just ordered a 150-600 sigma last night and dont wanna spend a dime

Get an old manual focus 55mm f/3.5 or 55mm f/2.8. Neither of these will go to 1:1 without a PK-13 extension tube. You won't go to 1:1 on a crop sensor, but need to get closer than the 1/2 life size these lenses offer without a tube.

 

I think my Micro-Nikko 105mm f/2.8D(which is one of my favorite lenses for general macro purposes, and goes to 1:1 without a tube) was around $300 and my 60mm f/2.8D was more like $250. I actually like the older screwdriver macro lenses better than the current AF-S versions(I've not owned a 60mm, but have had a 105mm that I sold) and they will work on the D7xxx cameras.

 

Also remember the old axiom about how "The foolish man pays twice."

im just trying to figure out the CHEAPEST and EASIEST way.... the lenses Nikon mentions in the product descriptions are the nice 400$+ stuff, while you guys use alot of other lens options.

 

SO what would be the cheapest set up guys, i just ordered a 150-600 sigma last night and dont wanna spend a dime

Most vintage macro lenses are pretty good, due to them being fairly slow, highly corrected, with simple optical formulae.

 

(Making a good f3.5, normal lens has been well understood for a while now)

 

So just grab anything that will fit your camera. Unfortunately, Nikon f-mount limits your choice, but there are still plenty of options. It doesn't need to be autofocus, or even from a big manufacturer, just grab some nice vintage glass.

Most vintage macro lenses are pretty good, due to them being fairly slow, highly corrected, with simple optical formulae.

 

(Making a good f3.5, normal lens has been well understood for a while now)

 

So just grab anything that will fit your camera. Unfortunately, Nikon f-mount limits your choice, but there are still plenty of options. It doesn't need to be autofocus, or even from a big manufacturer, just grab some nice vintage glass.

 

All three of these are excellent and inexpensive. The right most one is a special favorite of mine(probably second only to the compensating aperture version) but all of them are excellent.

 

The only real caveat is to watch for sticky apertures and stiff focus, which seems to be a particular problem on the 55mm f/2.8

 

Get a Tamron 60mm macro. Designed from the get-go to be a 1:1 macro for DX.

 

Tamron SP AF 60 mm f/2.0 Di II LD (IF) Macro 1:1 review - Image resolution - LensTip.com

 

Leave at f5.6/8 and carry on.

I'm using the ES-1 with PK-13, plus my 1970's-era AI 55mm/2.8 Micro-Nikkor on D810 to digitize about 50 years worth of slides. The ES-1 is optimized for this lens and tube. It works well. Keep in mind that the image circle for any full-frame macro lens will be substantially larger than a crop sensor, so you will loose some fraction of the image. I recommend a full-frame (FX) sensor. The ES-2 outfit is optimized for the 60mm Micro-Nikkor, and will do both slides and neg's. You can pick up a 55mm/3.5 pre-AI quite cheaply, and it will work just fine. The AI version is even better, but slightly more expensive. Tape down the focus ring once you establish focus, as it should not change from slide-to-slide. Theoretically you can rig up a negative holder out of cardboard for use with the ES-1, but I've never tried it. Maybe I should...?

Don't forget the OP has a DX D7500......;)

 

Buying an FX cam for some slide 'scans' might be seen as a bit OTT..

The ES-2 will work with a DX 40/2.8 Micronikkor lens with the supplied adapters. A DX camera only needs 2:3 magnification to cover the entire 35 mm frame, which means a longer working distance than the same lens on an FX camera. You can probably use a different macro lens than the 40/2.8, if you have enough extension from the lens. That might require threaded 52 mm or 62 mm extension tubes.

The ES-2 will work with a DX 40/2.8 Micronikkor lens with the supplied adapters. A DX camera only needs 2:3 magnification to cover the entire 35 mm frame, which means a longer working distance than the same lens on an FX camera. You can probably use a different macro lens than the 40/2.8, if you have enough extension from the lens. That might require threaded 52 mm or 62 mm extension tubes.

 

but thats half the problem, figuring out a list of combinations........ the DX 40/2.8 would let me get decent short range camera work,, make indoors awhole lot fun compared to the lens i have now.

make indoors awhole lot fun compared to the lens i have now.

Indeed!

 

However, if you're not constrained by a short working distance, inherent with a short macro lens, you can have even more fun with a longer lens and little nervous critters..:D

 

How many slides do you intend to digitize?

 

The ES set-up is expensive for what it is. You could MacGyver something and put the 'difference' to a better, longer lens.

+1 to getting a 55mm manual focus Micro-Nikkor - either f/3.5 or f/2.8. It's what I used with the film-copier attachment I showed above. The one that isn't the Illumitran.

 

To be honest, there is very little difference in the speed of use, or quality of results between using that front-of-lens film holder, and the dedicated Illumitran. Provided that flash is used as the light source.

 

The main difference is in convenience, and a slight improvement in film flatness with the Illumitran. The Illumitran is ready and waiting to go, whereas the front-of-macro-lens gizmo needs careful focussing and trial 'pops' to get the exposure right, every time it's fitted to the camera.

 

The Illumitran also has a filter drawer that takes a blue filter to counteract the orange mask of colour negative film. Whereas I had to alter the camera White Balance with the lens attachment thingy.

(Why I believe a blue filter is necessary has been discussed at length in another thread.)

 

FWIW. If you have a digital camera with sufficient resolution to make it suitable for film digitising - then why the heck shoot inferior 35mm film in the first place?

Edited July 17, 2020 by rodeo_joe|1

i just ordered a 150-600 sigma last night and dont wanna spend a dime

Which one did you get?

sufficient resolution to make it suitable for film digitising - then why the heck shoot inferior 35mm film in the first place

:)

I need to get an ES-1 as I have the 55mm f2.8 Nikon lens and Nikon extension tubes.

 

My question is what is the easiest/best way to light the 35mm slide to get the right amount of light and correct light color?

 

Are there any third party "stands" or devices out there to hold the camera and lights to make the whole task easier?

 

Suggested f stops and shutter speeds for slide digitizing?

My question is what is the easiest/best way to light the 35mm slide to get the right amount of light and correct light color?

Flash.

When I used a macro lens + copier attachment, all I did was mount a speedlight on top of the camera and point the whole assembly at a white-painted wall. You could even use the little built-in popup flash, but it hammers the camera battery.

 

If you haven't got a white painted wall, a sizeable piece of white card in front of the camera will do the same job.

 

im just trying to figure out the CHEAPEST and EASIEST way....

The OP asked what was the cheapest way to get a film/slide copying kit together..... and sheesh! I just looked at the current stupid prices being asked on eBay for anything that'll digitise film. Stuff that you couldn't give away a couple of years ago - like an ES-e28 - is having crazy prices asked for it.

 

So in view of that, here's my recommendation: Ignore Nikon gear and go for a set of M42 bellows + slide copier attachment. Such as in this link.

 

You can cheaply get lensless M42 to Nikon adapters to enable the bellows to fit the camera, and also an M42 to LTM39 adapter to enable an enlarging lens to be fitted to the bellows. A good 50mm f/2.8 enlarging lens - Componon-S, Rodagon, El-Nikkor, or even a Hoya or Minolta CE, etc - should only set you back about another $60 US or even less.

 

So for well under $300 US, you could be set up with a very versatile film/slide digitising kit that also does double duty as a high-magnification macro outfit. And will probably deliver better image quality than most dedicated macro lenses.

 

Good hunting!

Edited July 17, 2020 by rodeo_joe|1

With the ES-1 mounted and a slide in place camera movement is irrelevant since the the camera and subject are a unit. IMO, a tripod or stand just makes the process slower and awkward. In terms of light, I use a P Frame A5 A illuminated transparency viewer - got it form B&H. At one point, I used flash and an old projector screen -but less convenient since setup and take own were necessary. As joe suggested a white card works as well, more convenient than the screen.

Basically, a slide is a flat, 2 dimensional subject - for F stop, choose the sweet spot for the lens you end up with. Any shutter speed that works with the F stop. Once you have things working, David's suggestion of taping the focus is a good one. If you have a LOT of slides, be ruthless as you cull.

One thing worth mentioning as a totally different take:

 

My local camera store has a cheap crop sensor Nikon with a 60mm Macro that's pointed right at a Carousel that doesn't have a projection lens installed.

 

I'm not 100% clear on how the set-up works in practice-I think they run special software that coordinates everything and does basic PP on the slides. With that said, it's about as fast as a carousel can cycle through slides.

 

You could PROBABLY improvise a similar system(especially given that Carousels and even Ektagraphics are dirt cheap these days). I've never been one to store slides in a Carousel tray-I prefer binders full of PrintFile pages, and if I want to do a show will load a carousel from the light table. Still, though, I have piles of carousels of my grandfather's slides and he's not the only one who stored them that way. The boxes were even designed to stack like books on a shelf and have an area for you to write the contents of the tray. Not having to unload a Carousel to digitize can be a life saver for folks who have slides stored/organized that way, and is also fast and efficient to cycle through them.