No where to set film speed

The Compur Rapid was the one that I was familiar with, but there may be others and that is why I wanted together the information into this thread.

 

The Compur-Rapid as fitted to a lot of the older Rolleiflex Automats(and probably some others) came to mind for me as well(I think my Super Ikonta has one as well).

 

Even uncocked, there's a noticeable "bump" to the 1/500 setting as you engage the spring for it.

 

Synchro-Compurs, as on later Rolleis and Hasselblads, don't seem to care. In fact, that would run contrary to often-debated argument about how Hasselblads are always designed to be cocked.

 

I don't know how correct it is, but I like to set my LF leaf shutters-whether German, American, or Japanese-before cocking. I also store all on B or T when uncocked.

 

The set after cocking thing is a pecularity I'm familiar with on screw mount Leicas and their clones. On those, the shutter speed dial physically rotates as the shutter operates(this is the origin of the point seen in some 1950s Japanese camera advertisements that touted a "non rotating shutter speed dial) and I don't know how it's even possible to set the speed without cocking the shutter.

Funny, though, how long it took to add the little device on the back to hold the end of the box with the film type.

 

Seems much easier than some of the others.

There's also the option of taping the film box-top to the camera as a reminder. In fact some cameras have a slot for the box-top on the back.

 

I can't help wondering if the OP is winding us up though.

 

"I know nothing about photography or cameras" and yet have jumped straight into using film, which is the worst possible medium to learn with.

 

(snip)

"I know nothing about photography or cameras" and yet have jumped straight into using film, which is the worst possible medium to learn with.

 

If the OP specifically wants to learn film photography, especially darkroom photography, it is the only way.

 

There is a certain feeling holding a negative in your hand that you don't have for a USB stick with JPEGs on it.

 

Watching a print develop in a tray, under a safelight, is not like watching a print come out of an inkjet printer.

 

But we don't know about the OP, so maybe not.

Funny, though, how long it took to add the little device on the back to hold the end of the box with the film type.

 

Seems much easier than some of the others.

Somewhere around here, I have a box full of self-adhesive plastic sleeves probably from the 1960s that are meant exactly for that.

 

I know in Nikon land, Fs had a reminder dial and F2s had a window. I don't remember if F2s had the window from the start or if it was added later.

 

Hasselblads didn't get it until 1972 when the original "12" magazine was redesigned into the A12/A24 etc. The 12 magazines had reminder dials that also covered the "peephole" to look at the backing paper(and start the counter). IMO, the A12 design was a good one, as it gave you a place to put the tab but also has a toothed wheel around the perimeter for you to manually set.

 

Back when you could still get Fuji in 20 roll boxes, I also appreciated that they gave you a couple of tabs to tear off. Now, with 5 roll 35mm, you have to cut/tear to get it to fit properly. At least 5 roll 120 boxes usually still have full printing on one of the box flaps and is the correct size for the reminder window on most cameras.

 

Granted in all of this, a piece of masking tape and a sharpie still works.

Reminds me that there was a TV series on the development of the Boeing 777, and

mentioned that it was the first airplane model with cupholders for the pilots.

 

Where did the pilots put their cups before the 777?

I suppose the film boxes had to be standardised, in terms of having the details printed on the end flap, for the film reminder slots to be fully effective.

If the OP specifically wants to learn film photography, especially darkroom photography, it is the only way.

 

There is a certain feeling holding a negative in your hand that you don't have for a USB stick with JPEGs on it.

 

Watching a print develop in a tray, under a safelight, is not like watching a print come out of an inkjet printer.

 

But we don't know about the OP, so maybe not.

 

Hi, OP here.

 

My experiences are mostly blasting away with my smartphone camera. I did shoot a roll of 35mm about 20 years ago, using a old Japanese SLR.

 

I am looking to something new. So, I saw alot these old camera in the street market.

 

I just relocated toHong Kong, and I have seen alot of film cameras around. Just last week, I saw a guy in the park with those old squareish camera where you hold it on your stomach.

 

Film development at shops here in town is cheap.

 

cheapest i found is...

$4 to develope into a file for your thumb drive.

$4 for a roll of Kodak 200.

Edited June 16, 2020 by bedfordwebster

Is that US or HK dollars? Not so bad either way.

 

Yes, most convenient is to scan to files.

Do they give you the negatives back?

Some of the cheaper places in the US now don't.

 

Go for it!

4.50 USD to develop a roll for your thumbdrive.

 

4.50 USD for a roll of Kodak 200.

 

0.50 USD for 1 print.

I would first learn the basics of photography; the correlation between film sensitivity, shutter speed an aperture and how these balance out to get the correct exposures.

The Sunny f/16 rule has already been mentioned a few times. That is a good basis to work from.

 

 

 

The necessity of cocking before setting the shutter speed is limited to screw-mount Leicas and other Barnack copies with focal plane shutters instead of leaf shutters.

Edited June 16, 2020 by Rick_van_Nooij

I see some apps for light meter. Should I use one to verify my Sunny16 estimate?

 

And which one should I use?

"I see some apps for light meter. Should I use one to verify my Sunny16 estimate? And which one should I use?"

 

 

Get one you understand... they usually don'T come with explanations.. and many are over the top..not intended for photography or address filter factors and other crazy stuff. In fact frankly you should get a real hand-held meter and figure out how that works.. Gossen Pilot-Six comes to mind. Once you see how it displays info...and get comfortable with the the 3-way equation; Film Speed , Shutter Speed , Aperture / you can look at and shop around for phone apps.

 

But since you asked I have two, but I really only use the one, because the other is impossible to read in bright daylight from the phone outdoors .

 

One is called "lightmeter" and resembles a hand held meter.. I loved it for the retro look but I can't see it in daylight.

 

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dq.fotometroNa&hl=en

 

 

The other which is much easier to use. Lets you display all three of the factors, but two are fixed, displaying the one you want random . for me this is shutter speed . You can change all three but two remain fixed, the meter then adjusting the reading for the desired factor.

 

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=lightmeter.hardware.lightsensor&hl=en

 

I see this has a price..either I have the unpaid version or mine is before they made it payable. It prompts ..you want t buy after three or four uses ... but no ads

got my first roll developed. all the pics are blurry.

 

Edited June 27, 2020 by bedfordwebster

no 2

 

no. 3

 

Were you using the rangefinder to focus? If you focus on something at a great distance (something like 1/2 mile away or further) do the two images in the center of the viewfinder line up and coincide? If you're not using the rangefinder or it isn't accurate that could account for the lack of sharpness.

I might be imagining it, but shot number 3 in particular looks a lot sharper on the right of the image.

 

As I would assume the mountain didn't move and you were focused somewhere towards infinity, some possible explanations are:

 

Lens internal defect, tilted or decentred element.

 

Lens not square to the body/filmplane.

 

Film not flat/filmplane defect.

 

 

I don't think it's the rangefinder being out or focussing error, as the whole mountain should be in focus if half of it is.

 

 

What aperture and shutter speed were you using?

 

Can you show us a pic of the inside of the camera? To check obvious faults like a missing pressure plate.

 

Have a look at the lens, see if it looks square to the body and if there's any movement.

yes, i was using the range finder to focus. And at great distances, the two images do not line up.

 

Were you using the rangefinder to focus? If you focus on something at a great distance (something like 1/2 mile away or further) do the two images in the center of the viewfinder line up and coincide? If you're not using the rangefinder or it isn't accurate that could account for the lack of sharpness.

Then the rangefinder needs to be adjusted. Unless you're particularly attached to this camera, finding something of similar vintage that is in working condition will probably bed cheaper than repairing it.

Then the rangefinder needs to be adjusted. Unless you're particularly attached to this camera, finding something of similar vintage that is in working condition will probably bed cheaper than repairing it.

 

With a relative's 35mm SLR, a building two city blocks away is in focus.

 

With this Seagull rangefinder at infinity focus looking at the same building, the two images are not together.

Edited June 28, 2020 by bedfordwebster

There's some camera shake as well as misfocus on some of those shots.

 

With this Seagull rangefinder at infinity focus looking at the same building, the two images are not together.

Then the rangefinder needs adjustment.

 

As well as the tilted plane-of-focus that Steve pointed out.

 

But it's a cheap Chinese made camera of unknown history. What did you expect?

Edited June 28, 2020 by rodeo_joe|1

I might be imagining it, but shot number 3 in particular looks a lot sharper on the right of the image.

 

As I would assume the mountain didn't move and you were focused somewhere towards infinity, some possible explanations are:

 

Lens internal defect, tilted or decentred element.

 

Lens not square to the body/filmplane.

 

Film not flat/filmplane defect.

 

 

I don't think it's the rangefinder being out or focussing error, as the whole mountain should be in focus if half of it is.

 

 

What aperture and shutter speed were you using?

 

Can you show us a pic of the inside of the camera? To check obvious faults like a missing pressure plate.

 

Have a look at the lens, see if it looks square to the body and if there's any movement.

 

I might be imagining it, but shot number 3 in particular looks a lot sharper on the right of the image.

 

As I would assume the mountain didn't move and you were focused somewhere towards infinity, some possible explanations are:

 

Lens internal defect, tilted or decentred element.

 

Lens not square to the body/filmplane.

 

Film not flat/filmplane defect.

 

 

I don't think it's the rangefinder being out or focussing error, as the whole mountain should be in focus if half of it is.

 

 

What aperture and shutter speed were you using?

 

Can you show us a pic of the inside of the camera? To check obvious faults like a missing pressure plate.

 

Have a look at the lens, see if it looks square to the body and if there's any movement.

 

 

 

 

Actually, most of the subjects in the shots are at infinity for all practical purposes, with a 38mm lens they should all be in focus. I wonder if there's a scanning problem?